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Post by lethalcurves on Jan 20, 2015 17:25:53 GMT
Common baking soda (sodium carbonate) will do it. Mix with water. Will this not scratch the blade? Do i mix to a paste or in a sray bottle until disolved and spray on and wipe off
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Post by adamthedrummer on Jan 20, 2015 22:12:24 GMT
Neutralize it with glass cleaner making sure it has ammonia in it. Mother's mag to remove the grey buildup after you etch. Be careful to not get the polish pastes on the cutting edge too much. Then rubbing alcohol until your cloth isnt showing any black transfer and then oil it well. I recommend a mixture of vinegar and lemon juice with some liquid dish soap to lubricate it.
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Post by lethalcurves on Jan 20, 2015 22:41:00 GMT
I dont think any window cleaner in the uk has amonia in it? What happens if mothers goes on cutting edge? Blunt it?
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Post by lethalcurves on Jan 20, 2015 22:51:41 GMT
Neutralize it with glass cleaner making sure it has ammonia in it. Mother's mag to remove the grey buildup after you etch. Be careful to not get the polish pastes on the cutting edge too much. Then rubbing alcohol until your cloth isnt showing any black transfer and then oil it well. I recommend a mixture of vinegar and lemon juice with some liquid dish soap to lubricate it. Also when you say grey build up will that happend on the whole blade? also will too much polish just remove the hamon again?
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Post by adamthedrummer on Jan 20, 2015 23:30:27 GMT
The grey buildup is basically where the acid oxidizes the steel. The hamon will whiten and the ji will darken. This effect is desirable to some degree but it will be flat in sheen. To bring back the shine tbe mothers polish does a nice job. A yes I have dulled blades with mothers mag when I got too slap happy with it. Windex usually has ammonia...
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Post by lethalcurves on Jan 20, 2015 23:43:20 GMT
Ahhhhh ok i see what you mean , yeah you cant get windex in the UK , you can get cleaning products with amonia in like stardrops but That is a universal cleaning product so fear it will be too strong.
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Post by Adrian Jordan on Jan 20, 2015 23:49:00 GMT
Baking soda mixed into water will work very well for that.
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Post by lethalcurves on Jan 21, 2015 0:49:32 GMT
Baking soda mixed into water will work very well for that. Any specific amount or mixture? So i spray that on wipe it of or rinse it off and then powder and oil as normal? just rinse a few times in the baking soda mixture?
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Post by Adrian Jordan on Jan 21, 2015 1:23:08 GMT
The only time I've seen anything approaching a ratio was a mentioning of "cup of water/baking soda", hahaha. I took that to mean a 1:1 ratio. It needs to be pretty strong. Apply with a rag doused in the solution. You can't really do this too much, but you can do it too little, so be reasonably thorough. Afterwords you can clean and oil as normal.
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Post by lethalcurves on Jan 21, 2015 1:29:34 GMT
Wow thats a lot , and doubt it would disolve in the water , as arm and hammer tooth paste has it in Because it is pretty coarse and would probably scratch the blade , may just try and get pure amonia and use that
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Post by lethalcurves on Jan 21, 2015 1:39:27 GMT
Only thing i can seem to find in UK is a multi purpose non scratch cleaning agent called
star drops power cleaner with ammonia
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Post by Timo Nieminen on Jan 21, 2015 1:47:28 GMT
Sodium bicarbonate is soft, about 2.5 on the Mohs scale (which is much softer than steel). Shouldn't scratch steel. If in doubt, experiment first.
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Post by lethalcurves on Jan 22, 2015 14:03:37 GMT
So i have managed to move most of the marks but there are 3 deeper marks which would need water stones so i will leave them. What will move the fine surface scratches/swirls? I guess lapping as just polish on a rag i have tried metal glo and they are still there.
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Post by adamthedrummer on Jan 22, 2015 19:47:49 GMT
The swirls and light scratches usually require an abrasive to remove. Varying grits of scotchbrite and oil works. But you will likely need to polish the whole length of the blade. I would recommend unmounting the blade from the tsuka so you don't get swirl marks at the habaki. Or really fine graduations of wet and dry sandpaper work too. Just be sure to be consistent.
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Post by adamthedrummer on Jan 22, 2015 19:49:35 GMT
Like I said before... I hate repolish time. Alot to know and alot to screw up. Usually the yokote will be messed up by sanding.
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Post by lethalcurves on Jan 22, 2015 21:09:50 GMT
Thats all i have been doing buddy , wet n dry on a blck of wood up to 2000 grit How long should you spend per grit sanding?
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Post by adamthedrummer on Jan 22, 2015 21:55:55 GMT
When you remove all the marks that you can see... Move up in grit. It helps to change direction on every grit to help see the scratches and remove them. The last grit go lenthwise along the whole blade to avoid making swirls. Somewhere on the forum there is a few polishing threads with great advice. Then use some mothers mag or metal glo to buff up the shine. Then etch. Look up polishing without zen.
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Post by lethalcurves on Jan 22, 2015 22:30:41 GMT
Yeah i may have to go back starting from 1000 grit as i have done all that , maybe mothers mag is the key
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Post by adamthedrummer on Jan 23, 2015 1:06:02 GMT
1000/may even be too fine. If you can't get those marks out you'll need to go coarser. 800/ grit perhaps... Maybe lower.
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