Uhlan
Member
Posts: 3,121
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Post by Uhlan on Sept 8, 2014 16:08:11 GMT
Some like the iffy grey on the fittings of the German Bastard. I do not, so I wondered what that finish was. Acetone does nothing, vinegar bath does nothing, soda bath does nothing. So I tought what the hell and put some bluing fluid on the pommel and lo and behold, it worked. I cleaned the parts with a Brillo pad and hot water and after that wiped them down with acetone. Put on those trow away white plastic gloves and started wiping the parts with a liberal amount of bluing fluid on a piece of cloth. Went over them time and again, better safe than sorry. This is the result, a nice, even gun barrel finish. So, all you Bastard owners out there, do not sand the fittings down or anything, just follow the instructions above. The blue is deep and dark and I still have to clean them and oil them, so they will be darker still! Cheers.
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Uhlan
Member
Posts: 3,121
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Post by Uhlan on Sept 8, 2014 19:47:08 GMT
Hey Findlithui.
I will try Ballistol. I used a German formula from Klever GMBH, which is, so I read in the very small print right now, the firm that makes Ballistol! I must say that this product gives a rich blue - black, better than Birchwood, which gave me at least, always a black finish. Best blue I have seen thus far. Next time I will try out the rust blue method. Old fashioned barrel blue or plum brown, depending on how you finish the process. This is not a layer on the steel, as is the case with all Selenium based formulas, but really turns the STEEL blue or plum. Indestructable, no rust and easy to maintain. I hear the rust blue method is the oldest around and could have been in use during medieval times. It is very simple and basic. No heavy duty chemistry. By the way, I answered your question about the sabre scabbard liners.
Cheers.
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Post by Sir Thorfinn on Sept 8, 2014 20:49:10 GMT
Has anyone used the hot browning solutino? I have some, but after reading the directions, I'm a little afraid... Sorry I don't mean to hijack the thread. And those fittings look great on the Bastard...nice work +1
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Uhlan
Member
Posts: 3,121
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Post by Uhlan on Sept 8, 2014 21:29:51 GMT
Hello SirThorfinn. Thanks for the compliment Sir. I have no experience with the hot method. I am willing to learn though, so tell us all about it. The rust blue method I was talking about is very simple, as can be read here: www.akfiles.com/forums/showthread.php?t=31594This is the oldest method around. The hot salt tank bluing Findlithui was talking about started in the late 19th century or early 20th century. As far as my info goes, this latter method was solely introduced to do large numbers of weapons, guns, fast and have a constand quality of finish. It is not as strong as the old rust blue method though, from what I hear. It is still a layer of salts on top of the steel. It IS much better than cold blue. That is for sure. The rust blue method changes the top layer of the steel. It forms a rust resistant buffer zone. It takes some time though, that is why Hot Salt Bluing came about, right in time for WWI. Coincidence? Heat bluing is nice too, especially when done on a bed of charcoal, but still, it forms a layer on top of the steel, so is prone to chipping as it is quite thick. Here is a letter opener I made once because I was bored stiff: Nice rainbow pattern. In reality it is much more pronounced. At the tip of the blade you can just see some chipping. Edit: SirThorfinn, thanks for the karma! Message just came in.
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