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Post by Karoliner on Aug 10, 2014 2:41:44 GMT
So, as some of you might have guessed, I'm having a bit of a problem sharpening my sword... :oops:
I'm wondering if I'm doing it right and I just don't know it. The edge doesn't feel particularly sharp like my knives do, but it sails through printer paper with a satisfying "zip". Anything lighter (notebook paper) and it doesn't do so well.
As far as real cutting goes, I've exhausted my supply of milk jugs, and the sword did great with those. But water bottles just kind of break when I hit them... I'm fairly certain that at least part of it is just my technique, but I also suspect that it might be the edge. As far as I can tell, it has a proper appleseed profile, but it just feels so dull to the touch...
I see these videos of people making "silent cuts" on water bottles- the best I can manage is more of a blunt-force rupture and the bottle ends up several feet away.
So if anyone has any suggestions (seriously, ANYTHING you think might help me) I'd love to hear it. How do you guys know when your sword is sharp enough?
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Post by Adrian Jordan on Aug 10, 2014 3:01:29 GMT
Paper cutting sharp is a good, although not 100% specific guide. A sword should not feel sharp like a knife, as the edge and blade geometry are generally different. Making your sword too sharp is not good, as it invites greater edge damage. It sounds like your sword is pretty sharp. I'd focus more on technique for now.
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Post by Karoliner on Aug 10, 2014 3:30:26 GMT
Well, that's a relief. I guess I'll do some reading on the backyard cutting forum to see how I can improve my technique.
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Post by Adrian Jordan on Aug 10, 2014 3:34:01 GMT
Is it a Euro or an Asian style sword?
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Post by Karoliner on Aug 10, 2014 3:56:39 GMT
It's a european sword- the Windlass Sword of Roven.
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Post by Adrian Jordan on Aug 10, 2014 4:03:20 GMT
I hear that it takes a bit longer to get good, consistent cuts with Euro swords. They're a bit wider, so you get a little more drag going through the target and twisting is more of an issue since there is more blade to go through the target. Alignment of the cut is key. Sorry I can't be more specific, but I mostly cut with Japanese styled swords and it's a bit different.
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Post by Karoliner on Aug 10, 2014 4:10:55 GMT
Thank you! I'll try working on my edge alignment.
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Post by Voltan on Aug 10, 2014 5:53:24 GMT
Words of wisdom. It does sound like your sword has a good edge...
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Post by bigpete on Aug 10, 2014 6:29:23 GMT
When it splits atoms as they float past the blade ..... :-)
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Post by Karoliner on Aug 11, 2014 17:01:42 GMT
I'll bet I can shave the arm hair off an electron with some of my better knives.
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Post by Lonely Wolf Forge on Aug 11, 2014 20:07:03 GMT
its possible that the sword has too much bevel and is rupturing the bottles before the sharp edge ahs time to cut, its a huge problem with alot of production euro swords. they just dont take the time to sharpen them really nice like they do the katanas
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Post by aussie-rabbit on Aug 12, 2014 2:21:04 GMT
I tried that but the electrons ran away screaming! seriously most people using my kitchen knives for the first time remark how easy they are to use. As for Euro swords you might try variable edge geometry, find and mark the COP, measure half the distance from the COP to the hilt, mark this point, begin sharpening from the hilt at 35 degrees, as you reach the first mark bring the blade up to 30 degrees, then as you reach the COP bring the blade to 25 degrees, if the blade has reasonable distal taper bottle slicing will be a breeze
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Post by Karoliner on Aug 12, 2014 15:32:15 GMT
Huh... I had noticed that I've kind of done this in reverse... Maybe I'll take my files and equalize it.
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Post by Karoliner on Aug 12, 2014 17:51:37 GMT
Well I worked over the last 1/3 of my blade and dug some less-mangled jugs from the the recycling to butcher. It seems to do better now.
I also ended up with a nasty little cut on my finger for my trouble. Waiting on some better targets to see if it's improving.
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Post by aussie-rabbit on Aug 14, 2014 1:17:30 GMT
Meanwhile a little polish to remove those file marks may help
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Post by ineffableone on Aug 14, 2014 3:15:54 GMT
Something that might help your technique is switching targets from water bottles to pool noodles. While pool noodles are soft easy to cut they are very flexible so your edge alignment needs to be really good.
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Post by Karoliner on Aug 15, 2014 1:22:50 GMT
I'll try a couple of those next trip to the store. Should they be soaked or dry when you cut them? Right now I'm polishing the edge with sandpaper- it's almost unbelievable how it zips through printer paper. I also cut a saline bottle (contact lens paraphernalia) in half on the second try today, I was pretty happy about that Thanks for all the help!
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Post by Adrian Jordan on Aug 15, 2014 1:37:40 GMT
People generally soak mats. I don't thinks it's bad to cut dry, but I think dry is slightly more abrasive to the finish.
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