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Post by Karoliner on Jul 3, 2014 23:32:21 GMT
I started working on the blade of my new Windlass Sword of Roven today, and I can't quite seem to get the edge to come out. I'm kind of worried that I FUBAR'd the sword...
First, I took a metal file and began cutting from the ricasso towards the tip, at an angle I estimate to be about thirty degrees (I found 90 degrees, then 45 degrees, and then slanted the file a hair and figured I was close to 30). I kept doing this until I had something of an edge, and then I started running a coarse whetstone down the proto-edge. It had a little bit of bite when I did this, but when I took my 400 grit sandpaper to the edge, it vanished.
I also have a little bit of a shallow bevel now :oops: ... is this acceptable?
What am I doing wrong? I think I can try a bigger whetstone tomorrow, but if that doesn't work, I'll have to take it to the local guy, and I think he uses a belt sander :?
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Post by Karoliner on Jul 3, 2014 23:45:37 GMT
It would be a little messy if I used the edge, but the tip is still functioning, as far as I know.
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Post by Timo Nieminen on Jul 4, 2014 0:18:05 GMT
Sounds good so far. How did you sandpaper the edge? Here are two reasons why it might not have worked:
1. You had a very toothy edge after the file and coarse stone, and you sanded off the teeth without touching the non-sharp edge between the teeth. Solution: more sanding.
2. Your backing behind the sandpaper was too soft, and it curled over the edge and was sanding the edge blunter. Use a hard backing. A hard rubber sanding block is OK, a wooden block is OK, a steel plate is OK. I usually use a wooden block. File at 30 degrees, stone at 30 degrees, and paper-on-backing at 30 degrees.
Use water as a lubricant (or oil, if you prefer). You should get a nice dark slurry of silicon carbide from the paper. (You are using wet-and-dry silicon carbide paper, yes?) Give it time - you'll get there.
If it's acceptable to you, it's acceptable. You can blend the bevel with the rest of the blade and get an appleseed profile. Just file/stone/paper at angles shallower than your 30 degree edge angle, and you'll take steel off the ridge between the bevel and the rest of the blade. When the transition from bevel to rest of blade is smooth enough to make you happy, you're done.
If you're happy with it, as is, before doing that, you're already done.
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Post by Bryan Heff on Jul 4, 2014 0:20:06 GMT
I think there is a bit too much worry about the "proper" edge....but this is coming from me who really is not an edge guy to begin with...I don't cut with my swords so don't get to worked up about it. It really I believe comes down to what you are going to do with the sword, what you will cut with it. If you want these so called silent cuts etc...you might need a specific type of edge...again, I am not the one to ask but I have sharpened some Euro swords before and when the seem pretty sharp...I usually stop there and am happy. And have had fine success cutting the few water bottles I have cut in the past with that sort of edge. Sorry I can't be more help. Good luck.
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Post by chrisperoni on Jul 4, 2014 0:29:05 GMT
you probably have, but to check - did you watch the sharpening videos from Tom K? original hand sharpening and belt sander sharpening vids: www.sword-buyers-guide.com/sharpen-a-sword.htmlupdated hand sharpening vid: And have no fear - if things have gone wrong you should still be able to get back on track from what you described. Though I would say the biggest mistake people make with sharpening is trying it for the first time on a sword they really care about. I would recommend practising on something you don't care about first. I used my crappy stainless steel fake swords for practice. If you have a hardware store around you can pick up a machete for like >$10, blunt it and practice.
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Post by Karoliner on Jul 4, 2014 0:34:58 GMT
Thanks for all the info, guys.
I wasn't using a backing with the paper, that might be it. Maybe the bevel just looks so prominent because the rest of the sword is almost black.
No, I have not seen those videos- I'll watch them. I went through the SBG hand sharpening guide, however.
With the edge I've worked on, I can sort of cut notebook paper, but it's hit-or-miss.
I'll get get my better stone tomorrow and try a new backing on the paper.
Keep the information coming, it's all been great!
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Post by Karoliner on Jul 4, 2014 3:25:21 GMT
Well I dressed both sides with my file again, and it feels quite sharp, though rough. I will polish it with a stone tomorrow and touch up the mustard patina.
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Post by aussie-rabbit on Jul 4, 2014 3:40:56 GMT
Try working from behind the edge, see polishing half way down this page.. replace the leather on the strop stick with 400 grit wet-or-dry paper. viewtopic.php?f=19&t=13285
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Post by Karoliner on Jul 5, 2014 5:15:52 GMT
So barring access to a whetstone, could I just attach some sandpaper to a block and secure it in a vice to achieve the same effect?
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Post by aussie-rabbit on Jul 5, 2014 10:00:36 GMT
Sure, start at 400 grit and work your way up
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