Deleted
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Post by Deleted on Mar 17, 2014 19:43:04 GMT
So I'm having a problem with my tori elite. the katana won't slide all the way down the saya leaving a 1/2 inch gap between the mouth of the saya and the tsuba. I had this same problem with my practical katana but the difference there is the buffalo horn. On the practical I drilled a hole at the bottom of the saya and scrapped the wood carvings that were packed at the bottom from multiple drawings. This only happens on the wider blade chen models due to them being so sharp and it carving away at the mouth of the saya. Now I could score the horn and hopefully it pops off then drill my hole or is there another method. Is scoring the horn even a good idea?
I recently finished making a new saya for my practical with multi-colored horn
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Post by Deleted on Mar 17, 2014 20:36:24 GMT
I'm trying to follow what is happening.
So at one point the saya fit correctly. Over time, wood shavings have accumulated to the point that the saya no longer seats correctly?
Do you have a safe place you can store the blade and give the interior of the saya some time to dry out? Maybe too much oil or something is causing your built up debris to clump together. You might be able to tap some of this out.
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Deleted
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Post by Deleted on Mar 18, 2014 0:43:26 GMT
I thought of that to and I have tapped it over and over. I don't use a lot of oil. its definitely wood shavings cause it happened to my practical. there was a lot of carvings that came out.
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Post by LG Martial Arts on Mar 18, 2014 1:22:55 GMT
I don't mean this as an insult and I hope you don't take it as such, but as an Eishin Ryu Iaido practitioner for many years (working on my Sandan), it seems to me that what's happening is you're cutting the koiguchi (mouth of the saya) when doing nukitsuke (initial draw). Here's a question/suggestion: when drawing out the sword, do you hear a scraping sound? If so, try drawing the sword out parallel to the floor, pointing the tsuka at your opponent/target until almost all of the sword is out. Once out of the saya, use your hips to gain momentum and make the cut more dynamic (saya biki). When returning the sword to the saya (noto), try to keep the saya and sword parallel to the floor again. Here's a vid that might help explain what I mean .
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Post by Deleted on Mar 18, 2014 1:56:10 GMT
I practice too. and in the beginning yes I was both scraping the walls upon withdrawing and sheathing, now I perform this function proper. but that still leaves the carvings jammed down in there. im probably gonna score the horn then drill my hole. I do customization work on kabana's. from proper tsukimaki to saya building and lacquering. but never delt with this problem. just trying to find a solution before I attempt it.
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slav
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Post by slav on Mar 19, 2014 4:48:51 GMT
It is possible that oil has made the wood swell near the koiguchi and it may require some sanding to fit again.
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Post by frankthebunny on Mar 19, 2014 18:06:57 GMT
I have used a straightened out wire hanger to remove things like wadded cotton rag and styrofoam pieces from the ends of saya. Just make a hook or an L at the very tip to help grad whatever might be there. I worked on a sword once that would not insert fully into the saya because the kissaki had carved a new route into the wood near the kojiri and had to be carefully aligned near the end to avoid that new groove.
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Post by Deleted on Mar 28, 2014 0:36:38 GMT
If you don't mind me asking about finish work on saya's. I don't have a lot of experience with this. I painted two saya's , one started to crack the paint and the other turned out fine. the lacquer I used was WATCO clear in a 1 quart can. I do just fine when I lacquer a wooden finish. I've been reading about cashew lacquer, but wasn't sure. my last question is is there a certain kind of paint I could use to paint my saya's or does that mater.
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Post by Deleted on Apr 3, 2014 1:17:22 GMT
im unaware of what kind of paint to use to paint a saya, I got the lacquering almost down when it comes to bare wood but ive noticed when I use basic house paint the lacquer bubbles the paint. applying the paint by brush or spray can, what is preferred. If I want to get that flat look or sandy look do I buy the spray can version or do I add sand to basic paint.
As you can see i'm confused on exactly how to finish these saya's. my dilemma is that I built a well made saya using poplar wood with buffalo horn. It looks pretty damn good. Its better than any saya that I have in my collection (tori,practical plus, ronin pro, etc) and each one of those are well built, so I don't want to ruin it when I start the finish work.
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Post by frankthebunny on Apr 3, 2014 7:24:26 GMT
Before I go into detailing saya finishing, how far are you planning on going? Do you want a quick fix without much hassle or are you into going all the way with hon urushi or maybe a little less and willing to try cashew? The reason your paint is cracking is either because there is something underneath causing contamination such as chemical residue or oil/dirt or you're not using the right paint. Did you prep the surface with anything or use primer? Was the poplar treated with anything that you know of?
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Post by Deleted on Apr 5, 2014 0:39:01 GMT
alright these saya's I've painted were my practice pieces, I sanded down the old lacquer and paint, then cleaned them. I used spray paint but im unsure what kind of paint it was.. I did my research, and I know when using paint then lacquer its best using water to water or oil to oil. I know I can spray or brush, and applying must be thin and many. Now I would like to use the cashew or urushi but I start to get confused in the process.
so my saya is painted with a water base flat chocolate brown and dried, it turned out nice. I don't whether or not to lacquer the buffalo horn
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