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Post by Beowulf on Nov 2, 2013 7:34:15 GMT
I scored a Hanwei Sidesword sharp. I want to try and "de-stupid" the piece. What do you who are familiar with it think of this plan?
Make a metal ricasso tube, square and well fitted to span the space between the shoulders of the blade and the guard. This would be something to keep the guard from sliding forwards- from what I understand from reading some of ShooterMike's comments in an ancient thread is a real possibility.
Wedge the guard, perhaps JBWeld or epoxy it as well.
Fill handle with goo, most likely JBW or epoxy. This last step is painful for me. I would instictively want to carve a new handle, but then I look at that wire-wrap. I am torn on this.
Epoxy the pommel or JBW it.
Any suggestions? I almost think most people will tell me to toss the blade, fit the furniture to a new blade and carve a wooden handle. The sentiment on these is wild, everything from disgust to delight.
I want a sidesword, and I am not going to be doing much other than solo training as I work through some manuals, maybe test cutting with it. Let me know what you'd do.
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Uhlan
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Post by Uhlan on Nov 3, 2013 10:39:51 GMT
If the blade is anything like the Scottish backsword, I'd be content with it. I have saved all the rebuilt threads and the modding thread from myArmoury it was, I think, but missed ShooterMike's. Could give me the link? Epoxy in the grip, I would do, using release wax to be able to remove the grip later on. Give it a little better polish maybe too, but that's it. First get to know her, see what happens. That will set your agenda. Good luck!
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Post by Beowulf on Nov 3, 2013 12:34:08 GMT
so... Old thread about putting the Sidesword furniture onto a really good blade from another manufacturer. viewtopic.php?f=12&t=2256&start=40ShooterMike said: "The guard is cast stainless, but can become very "bendable." With a little use, the front ring that bears on the blade shoulders will start to bend backwards (compress into the hilt) and allow the fit to come loose. As you re-tighten it, the blade shoulders will gain leverage on the guard and cause it to bend badly, ruining the guard. The real answer is to cut a ricasso into the blade, forward of the shoulders. That way the correct part of the guard will bear directly on the shoulders and the finger rings will "float" just off the blade." I am thinking now I misunderstood him. I *think* he is talking about the guard on another non-Hanwei blade- being that the new blade introduces a problem. I took it to be that the guard on it stock is movable and the Arms of the guard (ricasso finger protection) were getting bent if/when the guard shifted. I get it tomorrow. I'm going to inspect it, heft it, do two minutes of slow strikes with it and then it's coming apart. I am very curious if this even needs to be "saved from itself" or if it just needs some strategic bolstering. Thanks for the reply Ulahn.
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Uhlan
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Posts: 3,121
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Post by Uhlan on Nov 3, 2013 15:15:33 GMT
I think you are right. ShooterMike talked about another blade combined with the Hanwei guard. I think the construction of the Sidesword is sound, but for the grip and maybe the pommel. That said, this sword is seen as too light by some, or not historically correct, or what ever. Reasons to rebuild out of personal preference, as I see it. I am just as curious as you to how ,,see saving it from itself'' would be necessary. Hope you will post your impressions, because I am still on the fence going for the Sidesword or the Munchen Town Guard. Thanks for the link, by the way.
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Post by Beowulf on Nov 4, 2013 5:33:03 GMT
have you seen the comparison pictures of the Munchen with the A&A version? I want it, it is good enough to me and can be improved easily and obviously if wanted.
The Hanwei Sidesword has a hollow plastic handle. This is what I meant by "Save it from itself".
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Uhlan
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Post by Uhlan on Nov 4, 2013 8:04:01 GMT
Yes, I saved all the threads about rebuilding the Munchen. Very interesting, but none of the blades mentioned there really tickle my fancy. Still looking for the one blade though. Even thinking about a Deepeeka hilt for the Munchen blade, though what I have seen from D. look nice at a distance but up close not so much. Need a lot of cleaning up. I forgot about the hollow handle. Filling it would be the only option. Did you think about the mold release wax on the tang? I would wrap that tang in 1 or 2 layers of tape, to get a little clearence and than do the release wax. The tang might not be smooth enough, so even with release wax, the filled grip could get stuck. It is not really that much extra work and later on, when you decide to do a new grip after all, you do not have to chissel the old grip off. Epoxy can be very tough and tangs are easely bend. Would you mind to keep us posted about how the Sidesword works for you and about the grip work? Cheers, Ulahn.
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Post by Beowulf on Nov 5, 2013 7:32:03 GMT
Some initial impressions for you Ulahn.
This was bought from KoA used just so you know- I was not going to pay the new full price through a Hanwei distributor, not after everything I have heard about it.
Scabbard seems to be wood, is thin and stiff without any extra bulk, quite good enough, though it looks quite modern compared to the weapon it holds.
Guard seems delicate, the forked sweeping bars "counter guards" that come from the "back" of the cross and attach to the "arms'" (ricasso fingering protection) are quite thin. The side rings (Ports) are broad, yet very thin in thickness. I would trust the Munchen (Windlass Munich) to protect my hand, Windlass overbuilds some complex guards too much. With this Hanwei I wonder if I survived an encounter would I be walking away with a distorted and skewed complex guard.
Blade is good, exhibiting a lot of distal taper. It is a deceivingly small blade. The strong/forte/stark is robust, the point/weak/foible looks delicate. Many of these weapons are fancy riding swords/arming swords. This is a sidesword turning to rapier, or a sidesword meant to compete with a civilian rapier in my opinion.
Pommel is massive. This is the most neutrally balanced sword I own. A layperson would exclaim that it has "good balance". I think it is not blade heavy enough, creating something nice for a thrust, but lacking for the cut. I do not doubt it will cut, but it's handling would create a very real limit on what footwork and "oomph" could transfer into it as force/cutting power.
Pommel will not come off with 3/4 strength hand pressure. I have twisted two tangs in the past accidentally by hand trying to release a screw on or glued pommel. So I am at an impasse. Handle looks beautiful, wire wrap is tight and straight. Unless I become adventurous or unless it loosens with use I do not want to risk destroying the sword. This was bought used- it is possible the previous owner glued the pommel threading or otherwise modified the hilt.
I paid $150 USD. It is good at that price. I will someday contact Darkwood Armoury and have them build a sharp sidesword around a nice blade for me. This will work for now. It also makes an excellent display piece- though really all swords do, don't they?
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Uhlan
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Post by Uhlan on Nov 5, 2013 10:57:57 GMT
Pity Hanwei build it too light. These were supposed to be military weapons. For taking off the pommel, try to heat it with the blowdryer and direct the heat away from that plastic grip. Once I broke a tang because I did not do the heat treatment. Blowdryers are a godsend. Use a cloth to screw it off though. Do not burn fingers! Might take some time for the heat to soak through to whatever it is holding that big pommel. Still not a bad deal anyway. Loose wire can be fixed with an epoxy coating. And who knows, maybe she will grow on you!
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