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Post by Lonely Wolf Forge on Oct 11, 2013 18:02:04 GMT
What do you guys use to remove deep machine scratches from hilt parts? its easy on a blade because you can just run the blade along the platen on a belt sander, but for rounded 3 dimensional parts like guards and pommels, how the hell do you polish out the scratches? ive tried ultra low grit paper, but it still doesnt cut as deep as the machine made scratches...is there some kind of tool i can use? ive tried a dremmel with fine grit sanding drums, but while it takes away the scratches, it leaves new deep ones of its own that also wont come out...
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Marc Kaden Ridgeway
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Awful lot of leaving and joining going on here for me .... And gosh I can't recall doing a bit of i
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Post by Marc Kaden Ridgeway on Oct 11, 2013 18:17:33 GMT
Not a swordsmith myself, but I'm told sand blasting works a trick.
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Post by Lonely Wolf Forge on Oct 11, 2013 18:25:14 GMT
i thought of that as well, sadly im not set up for that, i generally have to do everything the hard way. all i have equipment wise is an angle grinder, a dremmel tool, a 1X30 belt sander, a Hammer, and some hand files.
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Post by L Driggers (fallen) on Oct 11, 2013 18:28:02 GMT
Cartex tips, followed by felt tips with what ever compound I need to do the job. Also have a small wheel holder for my belt sander.
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Talon
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Post by Talon on Oct 11, 2013 18:40:20 GMT
If the scratches aren't too deep you'd be better off with a buffer wheel.Make sure you use a seperate wheel for each polishing grit.If they're pretty deep i like to use files of varying grit.
A buffer and various polishing compounds/buffer wheels are pretty affordable.I wouldn't use them on flat work (they can buff a nice groove if you're not careful),but for round or odd shaped work they work well.For flat work i like files.
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Post by Lukas MG (chenessfan) on Oct 11, 2013 19:34:30 GMT
I use a disk- and a belt sander followed by various files after roughly shaping the fittings with hammer and/or angle grinder to true up the shape. The two sanders take care of the angle grinding marks for me. Then it's onto sand paper. I never use a buffer wheel, doesn't fit in with the type of blades I made (imo doesn't fit in with any historical replica).
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Talon
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Post by Talon on Oct 11, 2013 20:01:47 GMT
You've lost me Lukas .A belt or disc sander doesn't fit in with any historical replica either.While i agree that a belt sander or files are preferable for flat work (i wouldn't even consider a buffing wheel for flat polishing)i can't see any issue's with a buffing wheel for removing fine scratch marks from round work or intricate scallops like a guard. Any deep scratches i would use files,but for fine scratches i can't see a problem using buffing wheels and various compounds for removing minor marks from more intricate hilt components.Though i can't argue with you're work as it's always of the highest quality
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Post by Lukas MG (chenessfan) on Oct 11, 2013 21:24:48 GMT
-------- I meant the highly shiny buffed finish so popular on modern knives doesn't fit on historical replicas. Ain't got anything against using a buffer wheel to remove scratches. I would personally then take back the shine a bit with high grit sandpaper, basically adding scratches again but this time in the right direction . I have no problem with the buffer wheel, I just don't like the finish it gives, same as I don't like the finish a belt sander gives but still use the thing all the time for shaping. For the finish, there's simply nothing that beats sandpaper (and a sanding block) imo. Should have worded that better, hope it's clearer now
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Talon
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Post by Talon on Oct 12, 2013 4:53:46 GMT
Ahh right,now that makes sense .I'm with you on the finish,i'm not a fan of a high polish either.
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Post by aussie-rabbit on Oct 12, 2013 5:18:53 GMT
How about some pictures so we can gauge where your trying to work
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