Rapier Help Needed
Sept 25, 2013 5:05:46 GMT
Post by Beowulf on Sept 25, 2013 5:05:46 GMT
I am receiving a Windlass Musketeer Rapier on Thursday. I'm getting it to cross-train a bit. If the general inspection is good I'll be dismantling it and doing my old "Windlass Sword Kit Rebuild". With other Windlass made weapons this has been shimming the cross, shimming, remaking or otherwise fixing the slightly loose handle, permanently affixing the pommel, etc. I don't know a damned thing about rapiers though. I need some pointers.
Should I affix the cup to the blade base? It seems to me on originals the cups/plate portion floats.
Should I shim/permanently affix the cross to the tang? It makes a huge difference on their medievals on general feel. Also this rapier has all sorts of doo-dads attached directly to the cross.
This model has a metal tube over the ricasso section between cross and outer cup/plates. How were they attached in period examples? Should this piece be textured or covered with something?
If the handle has a passable tang hole fit should I leave it alone? With medievals I have rebuilt I try for a tight against-the-tang handle fit if I can.
If someone has more radical ideas to spiff up this weapon I might be game. It would mean losing the nickel plating. My inspection of pictures on the web shows the crossguard's center is a blocky mass- I will be trying to find similar period rapiers to check out before I start tearing into this one. I might just kill the nickel plating and reshape this area in hopes of making something more comfortable.
Does anyone have any pictures or links to similar rapiers? It is a A.V.B. Norman Type 83. Alas, Norman's book is incredibly expensive now, and I plan on only this one rapier, so it is not worth it for me to buy.
Thanks guys!
Should I affix the cup to the blade base? It seems to me on originals the cups/plate portion floats.
Should I shim/permanently affix the cross to the tang? It makes a huge difference on their medievals on general feel. Also this rapier has all sorts of doo-dads attached directly to the cross.
This model has a metal tube over the ricasso section between cross and outer cup/plates. How were they attached in period examples? Should this piece be textured or covered with something?
If the handle has a passable tang hole fit should I leave it alone? With medievals I have rebuilt I try for a tight against-the-tang handle fit if I can.
If someone has more radical ideas to spiff up this weapon I might be game. It would mean losing the nickel plating. My inspection of pictures on the web shows the crossguard's center is a blocky mass- I will be trying to find similar period rapiers to check out before I start tearing into this one. I might just kill the nickel plating and reshape this area in hopes of making something more comfortable.
Does anyone have any pictures or links to similar rapiers? It is a A.V.B. Norman Type 83. Alas, Norman's book is incredibly expensive now, and I plan on only this one rapier, so it is not worth it for me to buy.
Thanks guys!
