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Post by Lonely Wolf Forge on Sept 20, 2013 17:39:26 GMT
Blade is ground from 3/16th inch 1095 high carbon steel, Oil quenched, and tempered The Guard is Polished Brass and the Grip is made from Resin. The blade has been left in a Fire Scaled Finish and is fully sharpened on the main cutting edge, Slightly sharp on the False. Blade Length: 9.5 Blade width:1.75 Grip length: 4.75
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Post by Bryan Heff on Sept 20, 2013 18:03:03 GMT
That looks great!
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Post by L Driggers (fallen) on Sept 21, 2013 5:43:05 GMT
You're getting better, but you really need to start pinning, riveting, or bolting your scales on. Using epoxy only is going to fail.
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Post by Lonely Wolf Forge on Sept 21, 2013 14:28:19 GMT
Pins are great on hardwood grips and really really tough stuff like Micarta, but this resin type material is prone to cracking under heavy stress. I've been using it on my smaller boot knives and utility blades that are not going to see that heavy use that will lead to breakage, this bowie was the exception because my dad specifically requested it even though i warned him of its weaknesses, He wants to try it out this year deer hunting and put it to use, and if the handle does indeed crack or come loose it will be replaced with pinned Hard wood. the thing is, any damage that would break the seal on 2 ton epoxy would be enough to crack the scales anyway, so there no need to worry about trying to pound a brass pin through it and praying it doesn't crack. My Standard Wood gripped blades like the Outback Zombie Cleaver are Pinned with Brass Rod
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Post by L Driggers (fallen) on Sept 21, 2013 14:49:56 GMT
Inless you've drilled a bunch of holes in the tang the 2 ton epoxy will let go of the steel before it will ever crack the scales. I've tried epoxy only it will let go of the steel under flex or hard impact. The scale you are using can be drilled it isn't that hard to drill them. If it will break under heavy stress I would ever use it on a big knife. I only use epoxy on my knives for a water seal not to really hold the scales on. The only thing I use epoxy only to hold the handle on it drill through tangs which already have a tight fit. This are mostly just kitchen knives.
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Post by Lonely Wolf Forge on Sept 21, 2013 14:55:57 GMT
i drill random holes into the tang underneath and then i use really low grit paper and rough up the entire finish so it has something to grab on to, Drilling through the Resin pannels isnt an issue, the issue is when you try to pound the brass pin in, the shock can cause the pannel to crack, ive cracked several Hickory scales this way, the issue is, if you have 1/4 inch Brass rod for example, and you drill a hole using a 1/4 inch drill bit, the pin will not fit without being forced in, which is good and crates a strong grip, but causes alot of shocking when your trying to pound it in, if you use a bit thats bigger than the pin, then it just drops through and isnt a tight fit, defeating the original purpose in the first place, But yeah i generally make it a rule to not use this material on big knivs, i use it on my 3 inch boot daggers, and my smaller utility blades where all your going to be doing with them is opening boxes or cutting rope and such, not prying doors open or chopping on trees.
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Post by L Driggers (fallen) on Sept 21, 2013 15:06:58 GMT
Don't use brass rods, use rivets or coby screws or loveless bolts. Use the proper fitting for the scales. Even with alot of holes drilled in the tang and useing sand sander to rough the surface epoxp a long will not hold.
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Post by Lonely Wolf Forge on Sept 21, 2013 15:08:25 GMT
ill look into it
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Post by freq on Sept 22, 2013 9:22:43 GMT
like the grip not a fan of the elongated swedge though, but still a nice knife, personally think rivets would ruin the look as it wouldnt match the handle, could potentially attach it with fiberglass resin that would stand up to pretty much any normal knife abuse
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Post by Lonely Wolf Forge on Sept 22, 2013 23:24:25 GMT
Swedge? what is swedge?
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Post by freq on Sept 23, 2013 9:57:54 GMT
quote="Saito"]Swedge? what is swedge?[/quote] swept edge (on back) or from urban dictionary swedge A faux double edge on the blade of a knife. Excellent for reducing the weight of the blade and balancing. The swedge on many knives can be sharpened for a double edge. It usually only runs 1/4 to 1/2 of the blade length but this is plenty to give the knife the benefits of a double edge. Sharpening the swedge of my knife into a double edge gave my stiletto blade the agility it needs to slice the corneas of random homeless people.
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Post by Lonely Wolf Forge on Sept 23, 2013 10:05:41 GMT
yeah its not a faux double edge, it really is sharp i didnt like the look of it either, the knife was more attractive without it, but Dad insisted.
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Post by Lukas MG (chenessfan) on Sept 25, 2013 20:48:20 GMT
One thing you guys seem to miss when talking about riveting scales: You can just pin the scales, no need to actually "peen" the pins. On my full tang designs I insert the pins through handle scales and tang when epoxying the assembly together. The pins aren't flattened in any way, they just sit tight in the holes, combining the various "layers" (scale-liner-tang-liner-scale). The pins don't actually hold the scales on the tang, that's the epoxy's job, the pins are there to resist lateral movement. My tac sword my first blade to be assembled that way and I've abused the hell out of the sword but the hilt is still as strong as ever. So no need to peen anything IMO. Good thing, no risk of cracking scales or denting wood with a missed blow...
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Post by L Driggers (fallen) on Sept 25, 2013 21:18:59 GMT
Yes Chenessfan we install pins the same way use a ardor press to put them in. Haven't had any problems with cracked scales. If you don't want the pins to show use hidden pins, we did this before too. But epoxy along will not work. I do not want to ship a knife to some one have the grip scales come off, maybe getting someone hurt.
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Post by Lonely Wolf Forge on Sept 25, 2013 22:11:38 GMT
Ive never had one made in this method fail. Then again i dont abuse my stuff either. As i said, any amount of force that would break the seal on this thing would have cracked the grip material anyway. Im not using this method to make beaters and mega chopers, its on a utility blade/skinning knife.
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Post by L Driggers (fallen) on Sept 25, 2013 22:50:12 GMT
It's better to be safe than sorry, you ever known what a person is going to do with a blade. If it's a wall hanger with no chance of getting used OK. If you are making it to be used make everything as strong as possible.
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