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Post by Deleted on Mar 27, 2008 22:16:49 GMT
I am looking for just a sleeve of mail. must be steel, and must be at least two feet long. Preferably not super wide. Can anyone help?
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Post by Jeff K. ( Jak) on Mar 27, 2008 23:50:14 GMT
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Post by Deleted on Mar 28, 2008 2:36:41 GMT
looks good. I was hoping for riveted but if its as easy as you say, I might give it a go.
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Post by Deleted on Mar 28, 2008 2:37:55 GMT
Also, I've got that same pair of bracers.
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Post by Deleted on Mar 28, 2008 3:25:28 GMT
What are you planning on using it for? I know a guy local to me who welds each ring shut. Not as historical, but they can take quite a beating (useful for things like SCA kits). He works in mild, stainless and titanium. What ring thickness, ID, and dimensions of the sleeve are you looking at?
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Post by Deleted on Mar 28, 2008 4:10:01 GMT
I'm looking for a sleeve roughly 12 inches in circumference and two feet long, with an adjustable wrist(like a dress shirt, slitted with a button/fastener) on metal type, I'd have to go cheap, so a tie between stainless and mild. ID? I'd need it to have a tapered shoulder end because I'm going to attach it to a brigandine and I dont really want it to bunch up in my armpit when my arm is at my side. I was looking for maybe 14 guage. I hope that wasnt too unclear.
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Post by Deleted on Mar 28, 2008 18:19:35 GMT
Ok, so you are looking at attaching under a brig? 14ga. is going to be crazy heavy, and impossibly strong. What are you looking at doing with it?
As a reference, most stuff in riveted/welded is running between 16-20ga. and there are almost no blowouts due to rebated or SCA fighting.
Right now he is working with an ID (inner diameter) for the ring of ~9mm or ~3/8". So mild steel sleeves, full length price quote? The hardest part about any sleeve is the "bunching" on the inside of the elbow. Will let you know what he says.
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Post by Deleted on Mar 28, 2008 18:29:14 GMT
Um, just to be clear, isn't wire gauge an obsolete method of measurement? I thought they uses metric thickness now.
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Post by Deleted on Mar 28, 2008 21:46:07 GMT
Ok, so you are looking at attaching under a brig? 14ga. is going to be crazy heavy, and impossibly strong. What are you looking at doing with it? I figure if I'm careful enough in a fight, I can grapple an opponents blade with my left arm(with mail gloves). I just want to be really safe on that side.
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Post by Deleted on Mar 29, 2008 3:10:56 GMT
Trust me, for remaining safe from cuts, you will be more than fine with 9mm ID, and something like 18ga. I passed your request for a quote onto him, and he will let me know.
Darkintruder, yeah but only kind of. Most people just translate the metric into US standard gauge.
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Post by Deleted on Mar 29, 2008 3:56:59 GMT
Trust me, for remaining safe from cuts, you will be more than fine with 9mm ID, and something like 18ga. I passed your request for a quote onto him, and he will let me know. Thanks a bundle, 18 gauge would save a lot on weight.
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Post by Jeff K. ( Jak) on Mar 29, 2008 17:09:06 GMT
The wire i buy at home depot is still labeled as 12 guage. It probably depends on the manufacturer.
Also I've read that in medieval times they would weave a length of leather through the rings at the wrist and elbow to keep it from sagging. This might help reduce bunching int the elbow.
Yeah riveted would definitly be the way to go. I also know of someone who spot welds the ends of the rings. I have heard its quite durable as well.
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Post by Deleted on Mar 29, 2008 19:00:22 GMT
I may just make my own.
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Post by Deleted on Mar 29, 2008 20:31:55 GMT
Butted maille will need drastically thicker wire to protect yourself from it. The reason is that you need the tensile strength of the wire to hold it shut. If you can afford it, welded maille is the best out there for strength and durability. He should have a quote for me tomorrow.
Never heard about the leather weaving from a reliable source. Seen lots of "artistic interpretation" but nothing factual, and I don't really think that it would stop sagging too much. Most custom-made shirts dont bunch or sag, because they were made properly, as opposed to India.
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Post by Deleted on Mar 29, 2008 20:43:51 GMT
My friend has a custom mail shirt and it leaves rings out here and there to stop bunching.
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Post by Deleted on Apr 11, 2008 8:01:06 GMT
Wow, I never thought about making chain mail like that, though after reading your instructions it seems kind of obvious. When time allows, I should definitely try and make my own. What kind of steel is the wire made of? I live in an extremely humid part of the country (once summer picks up, anyway) and consequently have a natural fear of things rusting. Good luck with your project, seilethin.
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Post by Jeff K. ( Jak) on Apr 12, 2008 1:22:45 GMT
Wow, I never thought about making chain mail like that, though after reading your instructions it seems kind of obvious. When time allows, I should definitely try and make my own. What kind of steel is the wire made of? I live in an extremely humid part of the country (once summer picks up, anyway) and consequently have a natural fear of things rusting. Good luck with your project, seilethin. I use steel fencing wire (chain link fence) im not sure if its galvanized or not..it doesnt seem like it, but there's no rust at all. Mine is 12 guage but for my next project (skirting on back of viking helmet) im gonna look for 14 guage....this stuff is a little thick. If you do want to try there are lots of sites that show you the method if you Google it. I find its easiest to go across rather than down. It also makes it easy to start on a piece of twine or leather. I just slid about 50 rings on it for the first row then moved down and linked the first one through the one above it, the next goes through that one as well as the one beside it, and so on liking two at a time. Important to remember, if your second row starts with a single link,it has to end with a double, then your third row starts with a double and ends with a single. If you dont do this you end up with a diamond shape and believe me, it sucks to have to fix that. its also important for joining the two sides to make a sleeve, or around your chest. On the bright side, by screwing mine up and making the "diamond" on my first atempt, I learned how to make the triangular "tassels" for the ends of the sleeves and waist. Good luck if you try it. You need to do some planning first but once you start it quite easy...perfect activity to do while watching TV.
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Post by Deleted on Apr 13, 2008 5:03:21 GMT
Thanks a bunch.
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Post by Deleted on Apr 13, 2008 18:27:09 GMT
Interestingly, yesterday I found a dude selling chain mail hackisacks. I bought one for 6 USD and its made out of blue and black anodized aluminum. Killer.
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