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Post by Google on Jul 29, 2013 8:48:59 GMT
I've heard that using tinfoil in some manner can help removing light rust. Is it true? Anybody knows the correct manner of doing it?
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Post by aussie-rabbit on Jul 30, 2013 3:28:38 GMT
Yes, but not tin foil, take a sheet of aluminium foil about the size of a sheet of paper, crumple it a bit and most important dip in some water, here is the Wiki explanation of the process. The aluminium foil, which is softer than steel, does not scratch the surface. Heat is generated by the rubbing friction, and the aluminium oxidizes, producing aluminium oxide. Aluminium has a more negative reduction potential than iron, and therefore leaches oxygen atoms away from any rust on the steel surface. Aluminium oxide is harder than steel, and the microscopic grains of aluminium oxide create a fine metal polishing compound — smoothing the steel surface to a bright shine. en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Aluminium ... hing_steel |
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Post by Valandur on Jul 30, 2013 3:43:44 GMT
So does this only work for rust, or does it clean other things like cutting scratches and the dark spots that look like water stains on a blade too?
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Post by Lord Cobol on Jul 30, 2013 4:00:45 GMT
AFAIK, it's only good for rust. Somebody else a while ago said it helped polish too, but it didn't for me. GREAT for rust though, and it doesn't scratch the steel so you don't have to polish to recover from the rust-removal.
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Post by Jeffrey Ching on Jul 30, 2013 7:11:06 GMT
I looked into the matter and will try it out myself on a few cheap blades.
I'd be careful though since as soon as the iron oxide comes off the steel it will try to bond with the aluminum to form aluminum oxide. Aluminum itself isn't abrasive but aluminum oxide IS. Using that on the hamon area could cause some problems (will become shiny)
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Post by Jussi Ekholm on Jul 30, 2013 11:45:25 GMT
Tried it on a TH blade with small surface rust spots. To be honest it did very little to the actual rust spots but it did indeed polish the blade a bit.
Don't know how long I would be supposed to rub it, but in the time I spent rubbing, I would easily have removed the spots with fine grit paper.
I remember trying this once before with similar results, and that's why I've been sticking with high grit papers for rust removal. I did it like in the Wikipedia link, but with no luck. Possibly with longer rubbing I might have gotten another result.
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Post by aussie-rabbit on Jul 30, 2013 11:49:00 GMT
The dark water like stains are another form of rust, so yes it works on those but it really does nothing for scratches and the like.
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Post by Actionhero29 on Aug 6, 2013 23:38:46 GMT
Umm it seems that for some it polishes lightly and for some it removes rust. Does it do both or not? hehe  |
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Post by BrianB on Aug 7, 2013 3:24:51 GMT
I haven't tried it on a sword yet (no rusty sword on hand) but on blued firearms where you don't want to damage the bluing we use 0000 (four ought) steel wool with a good bit of gun oil.
Even though it is steel wool the four ought is so unbelievably fine that it is incredibly soft. When soaked with gun oil you can actually scrub rust off the bluing and not leave any scratches/marks, nor damage the bluing.
If it won't damage bluing I'd guess it won't scratch a steel blade. You don't have to press hard, just a light rubbing and the rust comes right off.
Afterward you want to wipe it down with a clean, oiled rag so you get rid of all the rust that you scrubbed off and leave a nice coat of clean oil on there.
Hope this helps.
P.S. You can usually find 0000 (four ought) steel wool in the furniture refinishing section at Lowes / Home Depot.
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Post by adamthedrummer on Aug 7, 2013 11:07:05 GMT
This method works well on 1095 steel, actually removes scratches but takes a lot of work, doesn't work well on budo steel, makes funny marks on a budo. :-)
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