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Post by Deleted on Jan 29, 2007 0:28:21 GMT
Why not start a topic about my favourite armour style-milanese italian white armour.Perfect in its ascethic lines... Just enjoy those drawing I found a long time ago.As hey say there are from the LE ARMATURA DI S. MARIA DELLE GRAZIE DI CURTATONE DI MANTOVA E L'ARMATURA LOMBARDA DEL '400 198.144.2.125/Armour/ItalianArmour.htmI want them all  My quirass+pauldrons were based on the 5th pair. Any pictures,drawings,paining,oryginals and replicas are welcome-the more data we have more choice for my italian style soldiers! |
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Post by rammstein on Jan 29, 2007 2:02:54 GMT
rough translation based off of my highschool Italian 2: The Armoury of saint mary of thanks (  ) of curator of Mantova and the armoury of lombardy of the '400 (not sure what is implied by the last part.) |
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Post by Deleted on Jan 29, 2007 8:34:08 GMT
Makes some sense to me Rammstein I think it is a title of the book.Anyway drawings are nice and while comparing to the museumpieces they are accurate |
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Post by Deleted on Jan 31, 2007 3:17:13 GMT
Karma to you Elchon for that excellant link. I saved it for future reference.
I am currently in the process of upgrading my own armor. I will post some links as it comes along. I am doing a combination of leather and some plate.
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Post by Deleted on Jan 31, 2007 9:19:46 GMT
Which period armour you try to recreate tsafa? Maybe I have some interesting materials... Thanks for karma |
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Post by Deleted on Feb 1, 2007 22:10:24 GMT
Right now I am working on the legs. I am waiting for a side of 14 oz leather. Inside that will be some plastic plates 1/8 inch thick which will be rivited on to the leather. It will then have cell foam glued on the plastic plates to further cushion the impact. It is not very period as far as the materials it is composed of. It is intended to protect against the high impact of SCA fighting.
The 1/8 inch plastic plates under the leather make it very ridged and it will take on the protective qualites and restrictions of full plate 15th century armor. My current armor is all plastic plate with no leather. It is a bit too stiff as the plates are attached to each other. The new design will allow more space between the plates in certain areas. Low target areas will not have plates at all, just leather with maybe some cellfoam on the inside.
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Post by Deleted on Feb 1, 2007 23:26:45 GMT
Isn't it better to have steel armour?We fight with full power blows and it is a good protection...Isn't plastic too weak for that?
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Post by rammstein on Feb 1, 2007 23:31:27 GMT
plastic can be used in the sca, and is actually a bit more common than one would think. The sca started with VERY uncenventional armour, I've heard. By unconventional, I mean a modified stop sign for a breastplate, and the likes (any sca member, feel free to verbally slap me if that's not correct. Just stating what I've heard, which isn't always correct.) I would be very happy if I could have a full suit of armor like yours, Elchon. Unfortunately, I'm not so picky in armor as I am in swords. I know there are many different types and styles but hell...Protection is protection. I like them all! |
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Post by Deleted on Feb 2, 2007 5:06:15 GMT
Isn't it better to have steel armour?We fight with full power blows and it is a good protection...Isn't plastic too weak for that? Sure steel is better Also expensive and harder to adjust. After I made my first suit of armor it took months to fine-tune. It is easier to do that with leather and plastic. Not so easy to do with steel. No doubt steel is better and more historical, but the plastic will have to do for now. The plastic is from 55 gallon car wash drums. You can get them for free from any carwash as they are happy to dispose of them. These drums are so thick, tough and flexible they may stop a .22 cal bullet. I can not stab though the drums with my sharpest sword. My arrows deflect off. But it is easy to cut with power tools. A lot of guys use plastic in the SCA for the reasons I just said. The knee and elbow joints are usualy metal. Leather and plastic is attached to that to cover the longbones. The chest and back protection is usualy plastic too. Head and neck protection is always metal. There are some lowrisk areas that usualy have no coverage at all like the underarm and bicept. Rarely but sometimes you do get hit there and it does hurt, but not the end of the world. Pain is part of the game  Traffic signs can be cut to make good sheilds. And if you can further work the metal will also make good armor. Fact is that even the best made armor will breakdown sooner or later. Rivets and straps will break. Dents will happen. Without intending too, you will become your own backsmith at some point if you are in this long enough. |
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Post by Deleted on Mar 10, 2007 16:09:02 GMT
yes-becoming a armourer is something that I really wanted to do.That is why we(me and my friend) started production of good quality brigandines.A prototype for me would be ready soon.We plan to make and sell it at moderate price |
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My quirass+pauldrons were based on the 5th pair.
) of curator of Mantova and the armoury of lombardy of the '400 (not sure what is implied by the last part.)
