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Post by Deleted on Jan 30, 2008 2:45:28 GMT
I personally don't fight with the bucker but I still study it with enthusiasm. I sometimes fight people who use the buckler and I want to know everything they might do. I fight one person regularly who uses buckler every effectively.
I found some really cool vids on You Tube I want to share. This first one gave me an excellent idea for thrusting through.
This one cover some initial engagements.
This one has some cool locks and disarms.
This one has some cool off-side wraps. I can't do this one because my shield prevents my range of motion. I hope that none of my competitors that fight with buckler ever learn about this one. It would be devastating because no one would expect it. You can see the cut I am talking about at 0:54 and 1:04.
Another cool lock and disarm.
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Post by Deleted on Jan 30, 2008 7:54:15 GMT
I was looking through Marazzo's manual and he does cut and thrust with the buckler in later centuries. I thought I would post a quote from another post of mine that covers some of the cuts and thrusts since I.33 is not very explicate in that area. I think most of Marazzo's cuts and thrusts are applicable to I.33.
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Post by Deleted on Jan 30, 2008 12:09:32 GMT
I like the passing cut, side change so that you can snap the blade in past the incoming hit and take your opponent through the throat. Really like those cuts that look like a missed cut but are a side change and that wrap is lethal, wonder if I can learn how to do that with a medieval or viking sword, would work well with a curved blade like a shamshir.
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Post by Deleted on Jan 30, 2008 17:44:21 GMT
All those cuts would work with a Viking sword too. The point control will suffer a little bit. They would work well with any Cut & Thrust sword. The Thrusts would work with a rapier, but the cuts would be useless.
It is interesting to think about how these methods will apply with a curved sword. In thrusting through its a matter of getting your point to target. I have fenced against curved swords and the curve in the blade means that you have two or three inches less range. Also curved points tend to glance-off move on thrusts rather then stick. You need to angle the blade slightly down for a good thrust. I have seen an example of a Turkish sword were the blade makes a soft "S". The blade curves in and then curves out. That means you have a curve but the point is still behind your hand. Curved swords are good for making draw cuts if you get in close. Draw cuts with straight blades can be very awkward if you get in close.
It all comes down to practicing with a sword and discovering what works best under what circumstances. I think a false edge tip cut that goes around the other blade would work good with most curved swords.
One of the things that these videos bring out well is, expect your first strike to be blocked, have follow up strikes planned.
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Post by Deleted on Jan 30, 2008 18:20:54 GMT
Really like those cuts that look like a missed cut but are a side change and that wrap is lethal I think you are looking at this wrong. Instead of a "missed" cut, I believe they are showing the second progression. Attacker A does X, Defender B counters by doing Y (and in doing so deflects or makes A miss), and then A does the counter to the counter, "killing" B. More often than not, it is which person can recognize what the other is doing, and counter fast enough, while simultaneously knowing the counter to his own move, and what position that puts his opponent in.
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