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Post by Maynar on May 5, 2013 19:31:33 GMT
I have a wrap that was done by a friend who is quite good at it. Unfortunately the ito is a bit "loose". By loose I mean not quite as tight as it needs to be, but not flopping around or anything. I know if I handle or cut with it extensively it will only get worse. It is tight enough that I think laquering would help a lot, and make it safe to cut with.
So: clear laquer and brush, check. Laquer thinner to be mixed at a ratio of 3 to 1, check.
Would using straight laquer result in a stiffer wrap? Any tips I should know about? I'm not exactly what you'd call handy. :?
TIA
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Post by Onimusha on May 5, 2013 20:17:08 GMT
No, straight lacquer won't make it stiffer, and it won't penetrate the ito as good.
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Post by frankthebunny on May 5, 2013 20:22:46 GMT
Hi Maynar, thinner is used to help the lacquer more easily soak into all of the fibers of the ito but isn't always necessary depending on ito type and technique. I wouldn't recommend lacquering synthetic silk because it might feel too hard. Most of the time I don't add any thinner unless it's too goopy and won't spread well. Too much thinner might also affect what's underneath the ito such as glues or sticky tape as often found on many production tsuka.
I use mostly polyurethane for this as it's easy to work with and has many benefits and few if any drawbacks such as harsh additives that might weaken the silk or cotton fibers. I've used poly mixed with a little thinner on cheap cotton and there seemed to be a bit of fuzzing afterward whereas on good quality cotton, there was no ill effects.
I've found that the real trick to a good application is how well you work it in. I brush on the poly in a first even coat applying it so that the ito absorbs enough where it looks damp but not "wet" and doesn't collect on the surface. Once the first coat is on the entire tsuka I then go over it with my fingers (wearing rubber gloves) kneading it in so it really gets well distributed throughout the fibers. Again, make sure there isn't any pooling on the surface because this will dry hard like plastic. Go easy if you're not sure.
Let this dry overnight (time depends on temp and humidity) and see how it feels when dried. You might want to give it a couple of days since it will feel different when fully cured. If it isn't stiff enough after this you can work in a second lighter coat following the same directions as above only with less lacquer.
The exact feel of the final product depends on what you prefer. Some people prefer it to be a little rough for better grip and some just prefer a slight stiffness so the maki holds it's shape better. It's easier to go back and apply more rather than overdoing it and it always helps to be patient and test on a spare piece if possible. Hope this helps,
~Josh
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Post by Maynar on May 5, 2013 20:45:06 GMT
So, poly OR lacquer it is then. Working it in with fingers, check. Thinner optional, depending on conditions. That's what I'm looking for Josh, thanks bud.
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