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Post by LastGodslayer on Apr 23, 2013 1:33:26 GMT
Lets say I have this modern made katana that is rusted to hell, so I'm salvaging it back into its former glory. Assuming there is no need for file, but a real need for geometry setting (I dunno, maybe the last guy who owned it got too happy with a jig of some sort): At what stone should I begin? (I'm thinkin 80 grit); What is the progression through each stone? (small changes at the beginning big ones at the end, the other way round or even steven?); At what point is it basically done? (is 10000 grit an acceptable overkill?)
Money is not a factor, neither is time. Not trying to get a hamon to pop, just a durable, particle slicing edge.
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Post by willhart on Apr 23, 2013 18:27:40 GMT
It depends what you want to do. If you're looking at japanese waterstones, which are way better and faster than oil/whetstones (and also normally more expensive), you can start at 250grit for taking off a lot of metal fast or changing the geometry. You can go up to 1000 grit from there and then up to 4000 grit and then 6000 grit and then 8000 grit.
You end when you're happy with the looks. At 1000 grit, it produces a haze, and 4000 grit and above you start seeing your reflection. Now how clear you want that reflection to be, then that's when you start going up higher. Now with Sandpaper, I wouldn't jump grits so fast. Maybe jump 500 grits after 1000 grit. But that's just my opinion. Also from my experience if you use Sandpaper vs Japanese Waterstone, expect to spend 2-4x longer polishing your blade. Which could be the difference from 4 hours to 16 hours, depending on what your'e trying to do.
I would always end it with some sort polish or rouge to smooth out some of the scratches and make it shine more.
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Post by LastGodslayer on Apr 23, 2013 21:58:10 GMT
Thanks guys. Its just a gedanken for now. I already have a decent set of stones (all artificial, some Japanese), but I am thinking of testing a particular brand of artificial stones. With stones I usually go:
240, 320, 400, 600, 800, 100, 1200, 1500 and leave it here (more than enough for user blades);
With paper I tend to go from all the previous plus 2000, 2500, 3000 (although I use paper more for general metalwork rather than sharpening/blade polish)
I also use 80 grit up to 160 whenever I really need to correct the geometry.
So I was thinking getting these new stones from 80, 120, 160, 240, 320, 400, 600, 800, 1000, 1200, 1500, 2000 and 3000 and then getting some 5000, 8000 and 10000 natural stones, plus some hazuya and jizuya flakes. A large uchigumori is also on the list. Do you find this progression sufficient for all kinds of blade needs?
Also, what kinds of files do you guys recommend for pre 80 grit stone work, y'know, type of cut and brand, for when I am basically repurposing blades and blanks?
By the way, I am a firm believer of hand tools vs power tools. Doing it slow and right is easier for me than quick and right.
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Post by willhart on Apr 23, 2013 23:50:55 GMT
I'm not sure what Japanese stones you're talking about, but Japanese Waterstones don't come in most of those grits listed, and if you were to buy all of them, then you're looking at around $30 per stone which is $480. Waterstones are different from sandpaper as they take off metal fast. You can easially go from 250 grit to 1000 grit easially, and then from 1000 grit to 3000-4000 grit easially.
I would try to go with combo stones, they have some that are 250/1000 grit where each grit is on each side. Try those out to see if you like them.
I've tried whetstones/oilstones and they are very very slow compared to waterstones.
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Post by LastGodslayer on Apr 24, 2013 7:41:15 GMT
Wiliiam, these are chinese artificial stones. They are however inexpensive (think total cost under 50$), so I am checking to see if for the price they pay off.I want to at least try them out. Bill, I do use a belt grinder (usually only with an 80 grit belt) to polish/shape habaki, shape tsuka cores and sometimes, to change the geometry on through hardened blades. Not really a purist, as power tools make certain parts of the job last seconds rather than an hour. That being said, for things with hamon and other neat stuff, I find that going about it slow gives me more control over the end result. I guess the bottom line is: Euros n' general non-japanese blades are seen mostly as weapons, while nihonto and their facimiles have a more artsy approach.
Still guys, how about some file recommendations?
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