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Post by Deleted on Sept 18, 2007 14:55:20 GMT
Hey guys,
well my mate recently gave me a wakizashi that has some surface level rust, it hasn't gone very deep into the blade. I want to polish it up really nice for him and give it back to him. What is the best way to remove this kind of rust? Also what is the best way to sharpen a wak? Would a strop or a stone be the better option?
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Post by Deleted on Sept 18, 2007 15:14:30 GMT
Hey guys, well my mate recently gave me a wakizashi that has some surface level rust, it hasn't gone very deep into the blade. I want to polish it up really nice for him and give it back to him. What is the best way to remove this kind of rust? Also what is the best way to sharpen a wak? Would a strop or a stone be the better option? flitz seems to work pretty well but any non abrasive metal polish will likely do the trick. As for the sharpening it depends on a few things. If this is a cheap blade with a beveled edge then just take a file toit. However, if its a traditional edge then depending on how "unsharp" it is you may only need to take a good ceramic hone to it. Anything more than that you should really use the hybrid method of wet grit sandpaper in progressive grits until you find one that bites enough to do the job.
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Post by Matt993f.o.d on Sept 18, 2007 15:16:09 GMT
With regards to the rust, I would use a mild scouring pad (like a tack rag or greenie), if the rust isnt too deep. It should remove the rust without scratching the metal too badly. The light scratches left can be polished out. If the rust is quite bad, try some light wire wool or a brillo pad, then smooth over with some VERY light sand paper, and finish with the greenie. That should do the trick
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Post by hotspur on Sept 18, 2007 20:02:38 GMT
Hopefully we are discussing a modern and inexpensive sword here. I'd hate to see an antique get damaged. Starting with the least abrasive solutions is a good bet. I think Paul even has a section on his home page about some solutions. I dn't know if he got the pencil eraser trick from me but it is something I have mentioned a few times. As to "any non abrasive metal polish"Not to be too nitpicky but polishing is an act of abrasion. Some polishes are less abrasive than others. Most fine metal polishes are minimally abrasive, but there is grit in there (believe me). Tarnish removing dips will still only remove down to what the polish was previously and most of those companies will sell you a "special" (finely abrasive) cloth to finish with. True chemical polishing is something used at close to a molecular level of grit size. Show me a product that says it polishes without abrasion and I will help you find the abrasive.They are in there somewhere. One issue with working one spot on a blade is that it will usually end up looking different than the rest of the blade. Some years ago, Antonio shared an article on hybrid polishing as used by someone here in the states (Brian V S) and it has sort of become the primer for many working on refinishing modern Japanese style blades. It's worth a read, if you haven't. www.arscives.com/bladesign/hybridpolish.htmGreen scrubbies are actually quite abrasive when fresh and will leave scratches on a fine finish. Just bear in mind that if you start with anything grittier than the original finish, it will show. Also, a finer polish may well end up leaving a shinier spot. Danged if you do, danged if you don't sometimes. Good luck Hotspur; best to not let things rust, when you can
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Post by jpfranco on Sept 18, 2007 20:12:42 GMT
Try a metal polishing paste called "Metal Glow". It works well for surface rust.
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Post by Deleted on Sept 19, 2007 2:34:11 GMT
As to "any non abrasive metal polish"Not to be too nitpicky but polishing is an act of abrasion. Some polishes are less abrasive than others. wow, thanks for clearing that up, I forgot how precisely we need to describe common sense things around here
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Post by hotspur on Sept 19, 2007 4:25:24 GMT
Honest injun, I wasn't trying to be snooty about it. The real trouble I have with it is product that actually advertises itself as non-abrasive and then a look at the MSDS data shows the abrasive.
Cheers
Hotspur; even erasers vary in abrasion
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Post by Deleted on Jun 18, 2008 9:01:49 GMT
I have a Victorian British naval officers sword with some heavy rust on it in spots where it is flaky and eaten into the metal. To clean this up back to metal would be extensive work and the finish would not be very good. Instead I decided to use electrolysis to remove the flaky rust and ended up with a surface that is pitted, grey/brown/black in colour and is a vast improvement. The majority of the sword is in good condition for its age, (some battle damage), and since I have been cleaning and preserving it, it has turned into a nice show piece.
Electrolysis is easy if you have a tank. I used a piece of PVC drain pipe with a cap on one end. Filled with water and a couple of tablespoons of bi-carb soda, I connected the sword to the -ve terminal on a battery. For the positive anode I used a piece of steel pipe the same length as the blade. Clamped to the insides of the PVC pipe so they didnt touch and left it to work for 24 hrs.
Next day I used a brass brush on the rust and removed all the flaky bits. Some light polish and it has come up a treat.
For the bath I used bi-carb soda. Other ingrediants can be used but beware they may have aggressive attack on the metals.
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Post by Deleted on Jun 7, 2009 6:17:33 GMT
hi just joined up great site new to the sword game .i have a few swords some battle ready with a few scratches .I downloaded the text for fixing the problem from this site very good came up a treat . i have purchased a christian fletcher castille sword good sword but will experiment on the other swords before i try it on the castille . and i was just cleaning the castille and found out how sharp they can be and i am a carefull with sharp objects . thanks for the info very usefull site
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