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Post by Sir Thorfinn on Apr 1, 2013 15:19:27 GMT
Has Anyone Disassembled a Windlass Swedish Viking Sword? Here is why I ask... I bought one used. The grip had been redone (red/oxblood) and a simple single bevel edge. Sharp, but not blended at all. After some use cutting bottles, the pinned pommel started moving a bit. This bugged me...lots. So I carefully removed the pin from the pommel, and it came right off. The handle is solidly epoxied, so I have few fears of it coming off, but look what I found; And in looking at the top of the handle, there are bits of metal (aluminum?) I can see leather, glue, metal, and what I think is a plastic handle. The handle and cross piece are solid, with some epoxy spill on the blade, so it was glued big time. A number of questions arise...is the pinned hilt safe? And what's up with the handle? Why would there be metal in it? Anyone ever seen something like this? I didn't want to get too far into this as a full refit, but it looks like I need to. Any advice would be appreciated. Thanks, Attachments:![Metal in Handle.JPG](//storage.forums.net/1694914/thumbnailer/webUktwBM2Z7jK1PRMOi.JPG)
![Pin Removed.JPG](//storage.forums.net/1694914/thumbnailer/XgJ44WhTLyQke1Z7qvue.JPG)
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Post by William Swiger on Apr 1, 2013 16:31:45 GMT
That used to be mine before it I sold it to a fellow in Canada. The pommel was loose and I used those metal parts I found in my tool box to shim it tight and glued the hell out of it. I also did the rewrap of the grip. viewtopic.php?f=19&t=10334Small world. :-)
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Post by Bryan Heff on Apr 2, 2013 0:31:13 GMT
I think at least half the people on this forum own or have owned a once owned by Swiger sword. Funny.
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Post by William Swiger on Apr 3, 2013 9:52:53 GMT
Option 1: Shorten the blade (pretty long anyway), drill a hole in the pommel, and peen it. Would need a new grip.
Option 2: Cut off the old grip, put a really tight sandwich grip on it and then put the pin back.
Option 3: Shim the end of the grip with maybe a washer glued on and pin it. I did not remove the pommel when I had it and really should have done this.
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Talon
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Senior Forumite
Posts: 2,554
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Post by Talon on Apr 3, 2013 18:11:42 GMT
I've just stripped a Windlass build your own and the grip was filled with what looks like black epoxy.The sword was as new and i know it wasn't done by the previous owner so it must have been done at the factory.Nothing wrong with it though it was nice and secure,took a bit of work to strip it actually :lol:
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Talon
Member
Senior Forumite
Posts: 2,554
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Post by Talon on Apr 3, 2013 21:02:13 GMT
That makes sense,with the amount of swords that Windlass churn out exact fit and finish wouldn't be high on the priority list.Can't complain with the fit of the sword though,whatever they used definitely worked.It was a right swine to strip,but im on a brazil nut fixation atm and the ulfbhert pommel is really well done
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Post by Sir Thorfinn on Apr 4, 2013 1:16:16 GMT
Ah, now I know the sword's history. So it's a magic +1 Swiger...got it. I've cut with it a bit, and the pommel had serious wobble, so my guess a shim or something fell out. Anyhow.... The plan for now is to strip the handle and make a new one with a very tight fit to the pommel. I plan to repin it, just like it was. Also found some kind of epoxy/gunk in the pommel hole, like you said, probably JBWeld. I'd love to have it redone by a pro, I really love the pommel, for the moment, funds are tight, so I'll take a stab (pun) at it. Heck, I was even thinking of lengthening the tang (weld) and making it a fantasy norse 2h sword. Ah dreams...for now, I'll settle for a basic fix.
Question. If I shorten the blade to make the tang go thru the pommel, isn't there an issue with strength at the crossguard as you have to grind away blade, and essentially leave the fuller as some of the tang?
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Post by William Swiger on Apr 4, 2013 4:15:59 GMT
This sword had no magic. I just do not get the assembly method Windlass uses on this sword. It is a shame as the fittings are really unique and historically based.
I think you would be fine with the fuller as part of the lower tang.
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Post by Sir Thorfinn on Apr 5, 2013 2:01:41 GMT
Great tip on the epoxy removal! I was going to ask...karma for reading my mind!
So to the shorten the blade question, what is the major stress point at the handle? Is it where the tang crosses the crossguard, or somewhere else? I was always under the impression it was at the crossguard, but I've been wrong on so many engineering factoids, I no longer trust my instinct on things like this...
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Post by Elheru Aran on Apr 5, 2013 12:57:23 GMT
No, you're not wrong. It is more or less the 'shoulder' of the blade, where it narrows from blade to tang. You want to be sure that this area is radiused as opposed to square; that is, it should curve through 90 degrees rather than being an angle. This helps prevent stress from going through the metal in this area as curves help distribute the stress rather than focusing them as an angle would.
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Post by Sir Thorfinn on Apr 6, 2013 0:14:56 GMT
Ok, thanks. I think that's what I meant, but didn't say right. I know that angle at the tang needs rounded or it creates a stress point.
Another thought.
If I have someone weld additional steel to the end of the tang, can soemone point me to a post on how to home temper it so its soft enough to not shatter/break? Or is that just a bad idea?
Regardless, the way the pommel is built, the only tang that's going to fit thru and not really mar the shape by drilling thru will be a smallish round, nearly rat tail. So is it worth it to try remounting if that is the option?
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Post by conan9 on Mar 11, 2015 19:32:28 GMT
I wouldn't mess with trying to shorten the blade to get a tang that goes all the way through the pommel (a lot of work but you still end up with dainty tang). I would find some steel tube that fits snug over the existing end of the tang, hammer it flat where it contacts the tang, drill a hole that matches the existing one in the tang so you can still use the old pin, braze the tube to the tang & use the top end that's still round to pass through a sized hole drilled in the pommel. Now all you have to do is re-size the new hardwood handle you'll be making (you definitely want to get rid of that Frankenstein one that's on there now) to fit your new custom tang & grind off any excess tube that projects beyond the pommel & peen it (of course, you've already filled the top portion of the tube with braze). As an alternative to peening, you can braze a bolt into the tube & use a nut to tighten the handle assembly (brass acorn nut would look cool). Some work, but you end up with a rock solid ALL-METAL assembly with NO maybe-it'll-hold-maybe-it-won't glue or filler!
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