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Post by Sir Thorfinn on Mar 29, 2013 2:36:04 GMT
Hi All, I've used a power buffer for years. It's made from an old 1700ish rpm washing machine motor with an extension for the wheels. It looks rough, but functionally is about the same as any cheap buffer. I use a variety of wheels, and wax based rouge, of various grits (the silica ones scare me- silicosis). So what do the professionals use to get a nice mirror polish on things, or get out deep scratches? Is this where an expensive big belt sander comes in? Or a different type of buffer or wheel? I've gotten good results over the years, but it has always seemed like there is a more efficient way.
Thanks in advance!
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Post by Sir Thorfinn on Apr 5, 2013 2:11:58 GMT
This is good stuff! Many thanks!
I had not considered using my angle grinder, I need to check on flap sander grit disks...this may be most of my solution.
I've actually done a similar process to your first manual one, I agree, very cool finish, but it is a total labor of love. You have to love it, as it takes F-O-R-E-V-E-R...
Now a question, draw filing to flatten *after* the angle grinder, doesn't that put in the large scratches you just worked to remove with the flap sander?
Also, I have been toying with the idea, and it may be a terrible one...of using a random orbital sander on the blade. I think this may snag the sand disk and catch, possibly causing sudden blood loss and shop comedy. Not sure...so if I get the guts to try, I'll wear significant gloves and safety gear.
What about scotch brite wheels for a buffer? I've heard they are good stuff, but never had one.
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Post by Lonely Wolf Forge on Apr 5, 2013 2:44:36 GMT
first thing i do is go over entire surface with a flap wheel on my angle grinder, this creates a kind of machined swirly finish. Thei use a double cut rough mill file and drawfile the surface of the blade from tang to tip in a back and forth motion until all the scratches are smooth and going in the same direction (this takes a while) then i switch to a medium/fine single cut mill file and do the same thing, this produces smaller scratches and a more even finish (again, takes a while) then i use 120 grit sandpaper cut into long strips wrapped around a flat metal bar and i use the same drawfiling motion until the entire surface is polished to 120, then i do the same thing with 220, then 400, followed by 600. I dont go any farther than 600 because 800-1000+ doesnt seem to make any difference in the finish. I finish it off by whiping it clean with hot water (i do this between every progressive grit) then i use never dull followed by mothers mag polish. the end result is a smooth satin finish thats not quite mirror.
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Post by drdata on Apr 5, 2013 20:46:51 GMT
Perhaps just lack of skill, and/or the 4" grinder/sanding disk that i use (not a flap, but 36-50 grit), but I find I need to draw file to get the flats, well, flat again. Not just the issue of swirled lines, but dips that the draw file will expose, and then with work flatten out.
As I use a rough sanding grit the blade is made smoother by mill file draw filing so does not seem a step in wrong direction.
HTHs
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Post by Lonely Wolf Forge on Apr 5, 2013 21:18:33 GMT
perfectly normal, you will always have to drawfile to get true flats
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Post by Sir Thorfinn on Apr 6, 2013 0:08:31 GMT
Interesting...all great info. Now I need to get a couple decent files. I like the sandpaper on a flat steel bar idea too. So many ideas...so little time.
So I suppose nobody thinks the random orbital sander is a bad idea?
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Post by Lonely Wolf Forge on Apr 6, 2013 2:02:58 GMT
also get yourself a thick rubber block, works wonders on curved and appleseed edges
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Post by aussie-rabbit on Apr 20, 2013 14:43:52 GMT
try 180 grit 1" by 30" belts, glue to a 1" by 1/4" bit of straight pine. somewhat finer than a file, aluminium bar is also good.
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