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Post by pokey on Mar 28, 2013 5:01:27 GMT
well some good news at least, though i was under the impression that the tang was reduced then a thread was cut into it. is it worth annealing the weld? and how do you tell if the pommel is securely resting on the tang, or if the strain is being placed on the welded rod? would you cut a small bit off the end of the threaded section, to ensure its clamping down properly? (the threaded section basically fills the entire hollow nut, so its either a perfect fit or the threads a touch too long?)
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Post by pokey on Mar 28, 2013 12:58:29 GMT
cant seem to get it back together to a tight fit anymore, i think cutting a small piece of the end of the threaded rod would let me clamp it down a bit harder?? can anyone confirm this before i perform the surgery
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Post by Voltan on Mar 28, 2013 14:53:49 GMT
Check your hex-nut, those are known to strip fairly easily.
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Post by Sir Thorfinn on Mar 28, 2013 15:23:13 GMT
Also fiddle with which direction the various pieces go on the tang. I've found the handle only fits one way...the blade only fits one way in the scabbard, and the pommel fits better one way than the other. Just a thought.
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Post by Voltan on Mar 28, 2013 16:21:46 GMT
Indeed, that was the case with both my H/T longsword and bastard swords.
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Post by willhart on Mar 28, 2013 16:34:45 GMT
With my H/T Longsword I have to use a wooden block and hit the pommel into the tang. If not just tightening the hexnut won't push the pommel far up enough into the tang for some reason to get a tight fit. I also have to hit the cross guard to get the pommel loose when taking the sword apart. You can try that too.
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Post by pokey on Mar 29, 2013 7:08:56 GMT
spun the pommel around 180 degrees and its back to a tight grip now it just kind of irks me knowing theres a piece of threaded rod welded on there. i accept that at this price, i have no reason to complain about it ... so im considering cutting it off and trying to peen the thing together! i already have an angle grinder and some files...
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hhmoore
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Post by hhmoore on Mar 29, 2013 8:00:42 GMT
I may be the only one, but it seems to me that you are intent on finding something to screw with...to find yourself a project with this sword. If you are very interested in customization and repair, go for it; but why not enjoy it for a little while first? You've already alluded to being on a budget, why risk causing irreparable damage just for the sake of fixing something that isn't broken?
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Post by pokey on Mar 29, 2013 9:30:45 GMT
i think your right, my expectations were probably a bit too high when i bought the sword, now im kind of unsatisfied with it, which is fairly unreasonable i guess, but im fairly pedantic at the end of the day... the sword is just not brining me any joy now that i know theres a cheap bit of threaded rod welded inside it. it was not what i was expecting. its like getting a girl home and discovering a hemorrhoid, its just kind of killed the romance for me! so anyway i can see two options 1-cut my losses and sell it to buy something more expensive 2-try and fix it to my liking. i really love the shape of the blade, and its simple and clean lines, so if its possible to fix the things that im not totally satisfied with, then i am all for it... so the plan would be to cut off the threaded portion, cut the shoulders slightly higher up the blade to compensate a bit, probably cut the grip down a little bit to take up the rest of the slack. then peen the pommel on. i think then it would be perfect and i could shut the hell up i dont have heaps of money to spend, but im not on a tight budget either. the main problem is shipping costs, when they run over $200 it really sucks when your adding that onto sub 500 dollar purchase. changes things from highly desirable to outlandishly expensive. im working on finding a way around it, the hanwei lines are really good for that reason alone really, you can buy them anywhere...
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hhmoore
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Post by hhmoore on Mar 29, 2013 10:41:21 GMT
I can certainly understand wanting to change what you consider a structural flaw...but I guess my thinking is that you bought a longsword (as opposed to a hand and a half or bastard sword) for a reason. Rather than turning it into something else right away, why not spend some time doing what you planned on doing with it? You may find that you really like the way it handles, and that the welded rod isn't such a big deal, after all. If not, all that will have been wasted is some time; and you can proceed with your plan. If the weld turns out to have been poorly done, and it breaks, you won't have to cut it off, lol. I'm really not trying to dissuade you - it's your sword, do what you want with it.
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Post by pokey on Mar 29, 2013 13:40:50 GMT
not at all, you are speaking some wise words there but now, i dont really want to do all that work and know at the end of the day i will still wont be totally happy with the end result, due to the inherent construction. basically, i would rather trash the thing now than spend hours working on it and then trash it after the fact, if that makes sense? it would still make a nice dagger at the end of the day lol i figure i should start with the hardest bit first, and try and take the shoulders up a bit. any advice here? should you do it really slow to avoid heating the metal up too much? like cut, wait... cut,wait... etc? probably best to cut it within ~1mm of where i want it to be, then finish it off with some kind of grinding tool? (its not visible from the pics very well, but the angle of shoulders is slightly off anyway, one of them is not fully 'flared' like the other, so i will be solving this at the same time...)
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hhmoore
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Post by hhmoore on Mar 29, 2013 17:26:03 GMT
I can absolutely relate, especially since you'd be unlikely to want another if you screw it up. I've got one sword that was poorly shaped, with the base of the blade being quite obviously asymmetrical. When I pointed that out to the seller, he offered that I could return it for a replacement...but added that I likely wouldn't be any happier with the other one they had in stock. The thing is, I had pretty much given up on finding this sword; thinking it had been discontinued & sold out. The extent of the misshaping is actually pretty extensive, as it seems to extend most of the way up that side of the blade. After much looking, I've decided that I can fix the bottom, and most glaring, f-up with some file work...but I AM worried about screwing it up, so I'm not even close to being ready to starting the project. (Please factor in a very busy life, and a bunch of more important things on my plate, so I don't come off as totally ____less)
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Post by willhart on Mar 29, 2013 18:37:39 GMT
Here is a reply from the sword designer himself about them. I do not think the thread is welded on, they should be created from the tang itself. Looking it up, there might have been a few first generation H/T swords that look welded, but yours does not look welded. If it makes you feel any better you can do what he suggests to strengthen the rod portion. www.myarmoury.com/talk/viewtopic.php?t=15977
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Post by pokey on Mar 30, 2013 10:38:28 GMT
hey, i read that discussion, in fact that is why i assumed that the thread would be cut from the tang instead of welded on. since the thread was from 2009, i assumed the welded swords were long gone and everything on the market would be the proper design. i now believe i was unlucky enough to get one of the earlier swords when the pommel thread was welded. if you look carefully at the second picture i posted, the threaded section is literally on a slightly different plane the the tang. its off centre ever so slightly. also the finished join appears to be metal slag over a thread then ground down, rather than how i assume a thread that has been cut into the metal would look.. but like i said, im no expert... i would still bet money that its welded though from my limited knowledge. i had considered annealing the join to make sure its strong, but cheap threaded rod is still cheap threaded rod...
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Post by pokey on Apr 18, 2013 9:41:23 GMT
bought a dagger with a blunt 1mm edge to learn on, and damn, sharpening is *hard* i have managed to get one side 'sharp' or should i say 'shaped'. took a lot of filing though!i think i will need a stone or something to get it cutting sharp, as even 400 grit sandpaper doesnt seem to make it sharp enough
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Post by willhart on Apr 18, 2013 17:47:20 GMT
Ok we'll Chrisperoni said he didn't think stones were necessary and I agree. Water stones would greatly speed up the manual sanding side from my experience. Maybe I just don't have the power or weight to use sandpaper but for me sandpaper just takes forever. I still recommend water stones or a belt sander.
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Post by Lonely Wolf Forge on Apr 18, 2013 19:34:39 GMT
i recommend buying a blunt sword, its easier to sharpen a blunt sword and give it a proper edge than to try to fix a poorly done one. Found that out when i started making my own.
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