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Post by DavidW on Jan 28, 2013 18:55:18 GMT
So yeah, multiple chips and nicks on my Cheness Oniyuri's kissaki after a BOTTLE CUTTING session (so much for Cheness' legendary durability :? ) and I proceeded to attack the chips with a three-stage sharpening stone (this: fishingandhuntingstpetersburg.co ... 050089.jpg) even though I've never stone sharpened anything in my life. I think it came out okay, but I have no idea if it's a good edge or not, so I have uploaded the pics. I'd like to know how would one go about smoothing out the secondary bevel? I read on the SBG site's sharpening guide that you run a small piece of sandpaper along the edge at a 30 degree angle, but I have no idea how to do that properly. Am I supposed to run it along the 2ndary bevel part to grind it down, or am I supposed to run it slightly against the edge as well (as if it was shaving off a slice of the sandpaper)? Note: the highest grit sandpaper I have access to is 1000 grit. Attachments:
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Post by willhart on Jan 28, 2013 21:33:53 GMT
Well there is really only one way to smooth out a bevel, which is to grind it down. I'm not sure if the advice of sharpening a Katana would have been to use a specific degree angle when sharpening. I'm not an expert, but my advice would have been to follow whatever angle already existed, whether it would have been flat grind, saber grind, 0 bevel, etc. My advice would be to start on the top of the top bevel (shinogi) and follow it's bevel down to the edge. Depending on the original grind you might have had to rock the blade a little bit while sharpening, unless it truely had a flat grind. But now you're going to have to rock the blade back and forth over the bevel until it rounds it out. Do it slowly in the beginning until you get the hang of it. You can use sandpaper or your 3 stage sharpening stone, it will be exactly the same if you tape the sandpaper down on a flat surface. I wouldn't suggest using a rubber sanding block as it's way harder to remain steady if you're just starting out. Here is a good tutorial, just ignore the leather hone part and go with sandpaper or your stone, it's the same thing, just the leather hone is the final step after the sand paper.
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Post by DavidW on Jan 29, 2013 7:15:38 GMT
Thanks a lot!
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Post by MOK on Jan 31, 2013 9:46:57 GMT
Or, instead of rocking the blade to achieve the round bevel, you can also just use a soft sanding block. Cork (or hard rubber, but I prefer cork) sanding blocks should be easy to find, or you can place a piece of leather under the paper, or improvise using any suitable item you happen to find at home; the trick is just to find something that's soft enough to give just very slightly under pressure, not too much or you'll end up blunting the cutting edge. PS. Sounds to me like you got an Oniyuri with sub-standard heat treatment. I've cut two-by-fours with mine, bought it second-hand, and it's barely scratched...
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Post by aussie-rabbit on Jan 31, 2013 15:32:13 GMT
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