I used to shoot a bit when I was a kid and I've decided I'd like to get back into it. I'm pretty sure I'm going with the KP Archery 58" hickory ( www.ebay.com/itm/Handcrafted-lon ... 3cc44624a1 ) but I'm not sure what all I need to go with it.
Arrows are obvious, but where's the best place to pick up some entry level field points?
Bow Stringer: seems to be a universally recommended must-have accessory. Any recommendations on a particular one?
Quiver: Do I really need one? If so, what kind of quiver would you recommend?
Other stuff: thumb rings, arm bracers, string silencers, arrow shelves, etc. Do I need any of this stuff and/or are they unnecessary but really nice to have?
Noted. I have run into a bit of a snag however. I found out that you can only fudge the numbers a little bit in regards to draw length versus what the bow is tillered to. The bow I linked has a draw length of 26" and as near as I can tell, I have a draw length of 32", well beyond the acceptable range. Additionally, I'm finding most bows online are set around the 26-28" mark. Are there any options for someone like me with orangutan arms?
ETA: Sort of never mind. I remeasured using a less stretchy string and got between 27 and 28 inches pretty consistently. So, to edit the above question, is pulling a 28" draw on a bow built for 26" within the acceptable limits?
To have a 32" dl, you would probably be around 6'4 or so. But when a recurve mentions DL it's usually to give you an idea of speed and lbs at that dl specific. Longer the bow the better as you go longer in DL, so look for something long and have at it, shooting at a longer dl won't wear on a bow much, just increase lbs so a 30lbs bow rated at a 26" dl may be 35-40lbs at 32", conversely my 25" dl puts a 30lbs bow in the high 20lbs range as I can't get full flex on the limbs. Go for a long tip to tip bow and enjoy.
Compounds need a certain draw length, recurves are giving lbs at a specific lenth so you get an idea what you are getting. I'm 5'6, I shoot about a 27" dl. So a bow that is 45lbs at 28" loses about 4-6lbs of draw weigth at my draw length. So I'm really only shooting a 40lbs bow. Now if I could draw it to 30" I would be in the 55lbs range with the same bow. It makes a difference because if you want to shoot 40lbs or under, and you're tall, you would need to buy a 35lbs bow to stay under your limits. As for what you need, bow, arrows, arrow heads, stringer, string, finger tab/glove, quiver and arm guard should get you going just fine, add other things as you need them. Lancaster archery supply is a great source of good affordable bow products.
Those particular bows probably shouldn't be drawn pat their recommended draw length,I know the ones you mean and they are hickory self bows which can be very stressed out by over drawing them. Mind you an inch or so isn't a problem but 4" might be. Best to ask the seller though. He does sell longer versions so maybe one of them is an option. Now as for other bits,in order of importance,matched arrows,quiver,armgaurd,finger tab. I'm going to go against what most people say and say that you really don't need a stringer. Everyone will shot me down,but I've shot traditional bows for 27 years,and the only time I use a stringer is for recurves,and extremely recurved recurves at that. And before anyone says anything about it affecting longevity, my favourite hunting bow is now 19 years old and still going strong. Now you can get all this stuff off 3 Rivers Archery,they sell heaps of very good traditional equipment for a decent price. Kustom King is also very good. Although if your at all crafty you can make most things yourself . The one thing I'll stress though is getting good matched arrows. If you don't,it won't matter how much you practice,you won't know if your getting better or worse or whatever as it could jut be your arrows ! I found this out personally with some very poorly matched woods at one stage :-) Another couple of very handy things depending on how series you get is a fletching jig and a taper tool. These will allow you to make your own arrows which will save you money in the end as ell as allowing you to customise them to how you want. And learn how to make a Flemish twist string! :-) Trad archery is very addictive so go ahead and enjoy :-)
Arrows: depends on whether you want wood, aluminum, or carbon arrows. Wood is most expensive. Aluminum is the least. I like carbon arrows, and cabelas brand stalkers have feathered vanes which you need for a stick bow unless it has a rest. Traditionalists prefer wood, but I saved a lot of money learning on aluminum as wood tend to break more readily if you miss the target.
I prefer a finger tab to a glove, but you will need one. I used a bracer when starting out, but eventually I didn't need any more. I use a selway stringer for my recurve. I hunt with my recurve so the quiver I have attaches to the limbs. I mainly target shoot in my yard so I just stick the arrows in a line in the ground while shooting rather than use a target quiver. Other accessories that are nice to have: arrow case (though the box they come in works too), bow case (you easily can make a soft one--just think really long sock), string wax, and a foam block target. I made tip protectors from leather scraps I bought at a leather store.
Katsu: Hey Merch! Just wanted you to see this
Sept 12, 2023 13:12:00 GMT
nerdthenord: Lol, well that’s on them
Sept 8, 2023 16:40:43 GMT
RufusScorpius: Not so good. Had a big argument with my housemates. They said the place was haunted, I said I've lived there 183 years and never saw a ghost.
Sept 8, 2023 16:04:53 GMT
nerdthenord: Also, how you doing Scorp? Doing ok myself.
Sept 8, 2023 13:37:45 GMT
nerdthenord: It's pretty cool that water can be neutral, an acid, or a base without changing any of it's physical properties, but instead the theoretical definition of acidity used.
Sept 8, 2023 13:31:43 GMT
nerdthenord: I do love that when you talk about acids and based with a chemist though you have to specify what theory and definition of acids you are using. It's very easy to teach and understand the PH Scale, but it's not nearly as simple in real life
Sept 8, 2023 13:30:49 GMT
nerdthenord: True, it can't be completely dismissed in extreme conditions. I personally doubt it would be "Normal" matter, with protons, neutrons, and electrons though. Might be exotic matter like quark matter. Big disclaimer, I am not a theoretical Chemist either.
Sept 8, 2023 13:29:03 GMT
RufusScorpius: I wonder if there's another planet where their swords are made from Unseptbium and the hobbyists there are arguing about the properties of it's various alloys?
Sept 8, 2023 13:16:11 GMT
RufusScorpius: the existence of elements beyond the 7th period can't be dismissed. Like the theory of proton decay, we don't have the technology to devise an experiment to confirm or deny it. Esoteric elements MAY exist around neutron stars, magnetars, and etc.
Sept 8, 2023 13:11:54 GMT
AndiTheBarvarian: Nuclear physicists are the nuclear constituents' accessories to deliberate about themselves!
Sept 8, 2023 6:49:26 GMT
nerdthenord: There’s a reason I’m not a nuclear physicist lol
Sept 8, 2023 6:09:56 GMT
treeslicer: No, it's because proton charge repulsion overwhelms the strong nuclear force due to the increasing nuclear diameter. The nucleus is too fat rather than too heavy.
Sept 8, 2023 5:35:09 GMT
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