|
Post by James the True on Jan 24, 2013 16:01:34 GMT
I know what the terms mean but what I need to understand is what the difference in quality is? Is it just a personal preference or is one inherently better than another?
|
|
|
Post by MOK on Jan 24, 2013 16:56:06 GMT
Peening is the method historically used for most of the pre-industrial era. It fixes the pommel permanently to the tang, and when done right is arguably the strongest method of construction. Threaded tangs can be used in two ways. One is to simply screw the pommel directly onto the tang, which has several disadvantages. The more advanced way is to key the pommel to the tang, i.e. slide the tang through a slot in the pommel that fits exactly over the tang, and affix it with a pommel nut screwed onto the threaded end of the tang; this has the advantage of preventing the pommel from turning, and also places no undue pressure on the grip since the pommel is tightened against the tang itself, instead of the pommel nut squeezing the grip and guard against the blade shoulders which can cause structural issues with the grip core. This kind of construction can, of course, loosen with use, but is also easy to tighten again and allows easy replacing or swapping of hilt components (and lets you "field strip" the blade for easier sharpening and polishing), and when done right is plenty strong enough for any humanly practical intents and purposes. Albion uses peening, Angus Trim recessed pommel nuts; both are famous for their performance and durability. Much of the time a peened pommel is more historically accurate, but a pommel nut construction can be almost as durable and offers some convenient advantages for the modern user. A threaded pommel is not as good as either, but can be just fine under the right circumstances (I have had no issue with my Windlass "New Coustille", for example, while on the other hand their "Classic Hoplite" leaves much to be desired). PS. Here's a nice article from Albion on the subject.
|
|
|
Post by willhart on Jan 24, 2013 17:38:02 GMT
MOK beat me to it.
The way Albion does it makes the pommel and tang stronger than pretty much any other production based sword manufacturer. But then again I've never heard of keyed hex nuts breaking unless they were used for sparing and banging it into metal. But be careful, just because it's peened doesn't mean it's any stronger.
I personally like hex nuts, which I would describe differently than threaded. I sharpen all my swords and it makes it much easier to do when the guard and pommel can come off. I use a lock washer and loctite and all my swords and have made it through numerous cutting sessions and dry handling without ever having to retighten them.
|
|
|
Post by birdman on Jan 24, 2013 18:46:42 GMT
Valiant Armoury also uses the keyed pommel/hex nut method (of course, most of them are based on Angus Trim/Christian Fletcher designs); however, if requested, for an additional $80 Sonny Suttles will convert that to a peened tang before he sends it to a customer. I went with the hex nut construction when I ordered my Bristol, and I am satisfied with it.
|
|
|
Post by William Swiger on Jan 24, 2013 19:56:37 GMT
My personal choice is historically peened. I have two hex nut swords and a few regular threaded swords. The rest are peened.
|
|
|
Post by Anders on Jan 24, 2013 20:51:16 GMT
While a well-peened sword is nice, for a euro sword I prefer a design that lets me take my sword apart. Mostly for transportation purposes - large guards/wide crosses are the biggest hurdle when it comes to avoid attention in a place where carrying swords around is technically illegal.
Plus, being able to disassemble the sword allows the possibility of alternative hilts and similar hobby projects.
I would like to mention that the pommel on my VA warder does not in fact fit the tang at all and does twist slightly to the side when the nut is fully tightened.
Furthermore, it does in fact press against the grip which in turn presses against the guard, which in a way is a good thing because the guard slot is much larger than the tang, so this is the only way the guard can be kept in place without rattling about. It's solid when assembled, but I don't think it's especially superior to a screw-on pommel.
So I would say it depends on how the manufacturer handled the construction of the sword. What you describe is the ideal way, assuming the sword has been made with enough care and attention to detail that all the pieces do fit together very well. However it's evidently not a given for all hex-nut assembled swords.
|
|
|
Post by MOK on Jan 24, 2013 21:05:36 GMT
Very true! It doesn't matter how good the design is if the execution is lacking. (Of course, this goes equally for peened and threaded and every other kind of construction, too.)
|
|
Talon
Member
Senior Forumite
Posts: 2,554
|
Post by Talon on Jan 24, 2013 21:42:36 GMT
On production sword's i like the hex nut assembly,i like to mess around with pommel's and gaurds and the hex nut is great for sword tinkering.For a custom blade i would prefer peened as the sword would be exactly as i want it so the hot peen would be my preferred method.Either way if done correctly both are fine for me,though if pushed i would still say a quality keyed hex nut assembly suits me better,but that's only becuase i like to play around with my swords
|
|
|
Post by Kataphractos on Jan 24, 2013 23:32:52 GMT
Aesthetically I prefer peened pommels, but I can see the advantage to threaded/hex pommels for customization.
|
|
|
Post by Rifleman Lizard on Jan 25, 2013 0:31:29 GMT
Historical peen! Always my choice I think we all agree that swords are a link to the past. That said I think it's a shame to spoil many excellent, historically accurate blades with a modern and inaccurate assembly. That's just my view. I see the pros and the cons of each method but I much prefer a solid, unshakable hot peen that won't move a single millimetre. If done properly... all three are all valid options. However, historical accuracy and the permanence of a peen wins it for me.
|
|
|
Post by birdman on Jan 25, 2013 0:37:57 GMT
Just as an FYI, the keyed pommel held on with a nut to a threaded tang was actually invented in the 1600's, so it WOULD be appropriate on some Renaissance era swords (albeit, NOT Allen-type nuts...).
|
|
|
Post by James the True on Jan 25, 2013 20:30:35 GMT
Thanks for all the input. I think I'll go with a peened sword first out. Well, not quite first, I do have several otehr but this is the first time I've really gotten serious about it. Once I have a bit more confidence I'll branch out into the others.
Again, thanks! James the True
|
|