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Post by Deleted on Dec 18, 2007 4:08:21 GMT
Hi - I hope I'm posting this in the right section? I was wondering if anyone knew much about Hanwei rapiers? The one I'm interested in is the Bone Handle Swept Hilt: www.globalgear.com.au/prod2234.htmTo be honest, I was drawn to its aesthetics before I considered functionality - but I also know that once I get it in my hot lil hands, I'll want to try out a few swings. Is it up to the task? Is the bone REALLY bone? I read somewhere that it was plastic...although it is advertised as genuine bone. Thank you for any and all advice ![:)](//storage.forums.net/forum/images/smiley/smiley.png)
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Post by Deleted on Dec 18, 2007 6:05:09 GMT
Hi Faolmor. Yep, your in the right section. I am a rapier man myself. I also fight longsword and sword & shield, but rapier is my best form. I have practiced that the longest. I have 4 rapiers in my collection, all with practice blades. The pommols usually screw off and you can switch out blades, hilts, grips and pommols from the same manufactures. If you get a sharp you may also want to purchase a practice blade should you ever decide that you want to learn to use it. The bone handled rapier sure looks nice. One of the prettiest I have seen. They say its real bone and there is no reason it should not be. Bone is pretty cheap and in abundance. If you are ever traveling in Greece they sell bone handled daggers for about $15. $10 if you bargain. I think that rapier is a little expensive at $350 for a Hanwai. I have heard a reports of other Hanwai swords breaking. I myself witnessed a Hanwai practice rapier blade break in a tournament. I am not all that confident in their blades. I would not pay more then $180. $200 with shipping, thats it. If your price range in $350 I think you can do a lot better in quality. I recommend the following websites that specialize in rapiers and you can be sure to get your moneys worth. At the high end take a look at Darkwood. They have some stuff starting at $350. www.darkwoodarmory.com/catalog.shtmlA little cheaper but still up there in quality check out James the Just. www.jamesthejust.com/BTW, don't think of swinging when you think of rapier, think thrusting. Rapiers don't have enough meat on the blade to made effective cuts. Also think about what you use in your off-hand. Rapiers are usually used with another weapon or parry device like a dagger, cape, buckler, cane, or another rapier. The way you use a rapier is, the point always stays pointed at the opponent while you defend with the forte and hilt.
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Post by Deleted on Dec 18, 2007 8:42:35 GMT
Thanks so much for the great reply! I have been looking at the Darkwood rapiers as well - definitely drool-worthy ![:)](//storage.forums.net/forum/images/smiley/smiley.png) Hehehe - when I said "try out a few swings" what I should probably have said was "flail incompetently in the privacy of my own room where no one can point at me and laugh." (Or, perhaps more notably, lose an eye...) ;D
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Post by rammstein on Jan 2, 2008 23:26:33 GMT
Depends on the rapier, but for the most part yes. Also, their cross sections are too thick, even if they were razor sharp, the blade is just too thick to cut, it's too steep of an angle on the blade. However, push cuts and pull cuts are very dangerous on a rapier can could easily sever an ear, nose, or maybe even a finger. But you won't end a fight with a cut. I second darkwood, they make phenominal swords. Their economy blades are very inexpensive.
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Post by Deleted on Jan 3, 2008 3:06:00 GMT
Indeed you should think "thrust" with a rapier, yet don't confuse "cut" with "slash". You certainly won't decapitate your opponent with one, but as Ramm points out, push and draw cuts are dangerous. I would go further and say that a cut with a rapier is a very possible duel-ender. A cut to the neck (jugular) or to any of the finger-controlling tendons of the sword arm come immediately to mind.
Admittedly, it's been years since I fenced in college. ;D
I own the swept-hilt wooden handle model (though certainly an earlier model), and I'm here to tell you, it's HEAVY. I wouldn't want to fence with it.
Sounds like Tsafa has some good suggestions.
Good luck in your search!
J
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Post by Deleted on Jan 3, 2008 21:52:50 GMT
We call call Rapier cuts "harassment" at my practice. They don't count as a kill but are annoying. In a real fight, they might be very demoralizing. A cut to the top of someones head will also cause visibility problems as the blood gets in his eyes. They may not kill but may lead to a situation where the follow up thrust may kill.
Rapier cuts may also cause the person attempting to cut his life, since you have to lift you blade off-line in order to swing back and cut. When you come off-line for a cut you use two fencing times. The other person can lunge and thrust in one fencing time.
The only time I would use a cut or slice with a Rapier is if my thrust misses and my blade is already off-line. This might be because the other person shifted left or right. The cut then has the purpose of bringing my point back in-line and attacking in one motion.
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Post by Deleted on Jan 4, 2008 3:12:42 GMT
Huh, well, live and learn. ![:)](//storage.forums.net/forum/images/smiley/smiley.png) Thanks for the lesson, Tsafa. Definitely +1 from me. You had mentioned before using a second weapon in your non-dominant hand - what's your off-hand weapon of choice?
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Post by Deleted on Jan 4, 2008 5:50:05 GMT
In competition I fight case (two rapiers). 36" in one hand and a 40" in the other. I usually hold the 40 back and lead with the 36. The shorter 36 provides more leverage. The 40 gives me extra range. My second choice is dagger in the off-hand.
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