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Post by Sir Thorfinn on Jan 4, 2013 14:19:02 GMT
There are a number of sharpening threads going, and I didn't want to muddy them with this question. I've been bouncing between 2 crap viking swords hand sharpening, and the scratch pattern on the edges is making me crazy, I just don't like the look. I know using any sort of power tool on anything sharp is a disaster waiting to happen, but I want to know if anyone has used a power buffer on an edge. Things I suspect: Heat can become a problem very quickly and damage the temper. You can still sand divots into the steel if not careful (just like a belt sander) Depending on polish refinement, you need multiple wheels so you don't cross contaminate. But it would seem since we're trying for a nice appleseed/convex edge, that once you get it very close, a buffer would be a good finish to polish out the edge. A hard wheel would have more tendency to flatten the convex while polishing, and softer would keep to the original shape, more evenly polishing and removing material. So has anyone done this, or have experience with it? Also, I'm working on reprofiling a Cold Steel Kopis Machete by hand, and doing individual bevels at 2 degree increments from 20 to 35 degrees. It's hard to see, but the edge is startign to look facetted, I can't wait to see how this cuts. I suspect that if I don't strop and smooth the tiny bevel lines, it will reduce the cutting ability as the bevel would be somewhat rough. So...thoughts? Am I crazy? (well yes, but about this?)
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Post by lamebmx on Jan 4, 2013 21:08:58 GMT
I was always curious if cutting numerous bevels would work to drastically change a shape. Rolling motion on the stones will smooth it out a lot faster. smooth consistent strokes, alternate grit direction so its easier to see when the previous scratches are all gone. keep moving up in grits and eventually they will disappear. well they actually disappear after you stop hunting for them like mad and get some sleep lol.
Buffers are fine though. Keep em on low and dont hang out on one spot for long. They use them all the time to spruce up full and extra hollow straight razors. But for the cutting edge, leave it to the stones, or a pasted strop.
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Post by mlpfan on Jan 4, 2013 21:14:48 GMT
from what i have read a power buffer destroys the edge, the buffing wheel whips up and over the edge and rolls the edge off
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Post by chrisperoni on Jan 4, 2013 22:41:03 GMT
yup- buffing wheels rounds the edge smooth/dull
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Post by Sir Thorfinn on Jan 5, 2013 0:55:57 GMT
Interesting....this might explain some of the odd things I've experienced with a buffer and sharp things. Maybe buff to polish, and stones for the final edge. Have to play with this. Any thoughts on soft cotton wheels vs. hard? Heck, I've got a few that are close to solid cardboard, they do odd things to steel, far too aggressive to use on an edge finer than a back yard axe. And I think I'm finally going to buy a hard sanding block...might set me back 5 whole dollars....
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Post by mlpfan on Jan 5, 2013 3:36:40 GMT
any kind of power buffer is going to screw the edge up. just take your time and do it the right way with a stone
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Post by aussie-rabbit on Jan 5, 2013 5:52:49 GMT
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Post by GUEST on Jan 5, 2013 11:06:08 GMT
If you use a cardboard, hard felt, or leather wheel with black compound for to remove the scratches, then switch to a white or green compound to finish you will be fine. I use a cardboard wheel to put final edges on alot of the stuff I make. I do have my buffer mounted backwards so if it does catch the blade it will throw it into the wall, instead of at my crotch. Just remember you have it mounted back. I use the top of the wheel with the edge away for me. For what you what you want to do a medium to hard felt wheel will be best. Is your buffer high speed 3400 rpm or low speed 1800 rpm. A low speed is better to sharpen with but I have gotten by with a cheap high speed so far. Really want to get a Baldor low speed here soon.
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Post by Deleted on Jan 5, 2013 12:47:00 GMT
Power buffers are routinely used by woodworkers to sharpen their chisels to 'super scary sharp' levels which put swords to shame! White compond on a leather wheel is the way we do it. Fallen has explained it perfectly in his comment above.
You just need to ask yourself is would you sharpen a sword to that extreme? The thing is you probably wouldn't want/need an edge that sharp on a sword, it would probably be too fragile. BTW, a facteted curve will have too many ridges which will increase friction or drag in a cut and impair cuting performance, make the curve to the edge nive and smooth for best cutting.
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Post by lamebmx on Jan 5, 2013 13:32:03 GMT
Polishing the edge up really fine, makes the microscopic serrations at the edge really fine. Which makes them less likely to break off or bend, thus dulling the edge. The geometry dictates whether its truly fragile. If you look at the woodworking chisels its easy to see what angle they are set to, or with a regular secondary bevel. Polishing to that level of an edge really helps it be a bit sharper since it has less resistance to what is being cut, but it also helps the edge last longer since it is closer to a uniform shape, with less serrations to catch on the material.
But they do fall away from being scary sharp like that. When you get used to using something that dang sharp, your viewpoint on what is dull has moved sharper than what others consider sharp.
When you get yourself setup it does make maintenance a breeze. Strop then shave, strop then shave and strop then shave. Oh wait we are talking about swords here. I have mentioned it before that woodworking and straight razors are a good resource for sharpening info. The crazy tiny fragile edge on my wolstenhom(sp?) pipe razor lasts for weeks before it touches the linen side of the strop, it lasts for months before it touches a touch up stone.
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Post by aussie-rabbit on Jan 5, 2013 13:49:39 GMT
When you strop a straight razor you are creating an appleseed edge, in miniature yes, but still a micro appleseed, stropping a sword does much the same if you have a good edge to begin with, the swords I may hand around have very sharp edges, but I have one or two I would not hand to just anyone
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Post by Sir Thorfinn on Jan 6, 2013 16:50:11 GMT
Great info, I had forgotten about the strop sticks. Have to give that a try. I'm thinnking now of a different way to look at this. Polish the sword/edge until i'm happy with the overall look, THEN sharpen, and strop. Oh, and the best way to examine an edge I've ever seen are the cheap 60-100x led microscopes you can find on Amazon for about 10 dollars. Stuff your eye can't see, becomes very obvious. It also lets you know if you are being consistent. I figure you all are OCD like me....so this can add to your personal flavor of crazy.
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Post by aussie-rabbit on Jan 7, 2013 3:41:57 GMT
Do you have a link to those microscopes, I have wanted one for quite a while
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Post by Sir Thorfinn on Jan 7, 2013 12:37:38 GMT
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