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Post by applejack on Dec 29, 2012 19:29:52 GMT
i had got a bud k kukri and the thing was dull when i got it. well i sharpen it myself with a file and a stone(23 degree angle on the hole knife) and i have been useing a lot for Woody vegetation and branches and now it's need resharping. i had looked at this site machetespecialists.com and they say "If cutting Woody vegetation and branches, however, a larger sharpening angle of 25-35 degrees is recommended. The more durable edge will withstand the trauma of repeated chopping strokes. For a machete or camp knife used for heavy chopping, we recommend a utility edge of 25-30 degrees." so, should i sharpen it back up on a 25-30 degrees or not?
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Post by randomnobody on Dec 29, 2012 21:43:31 GMT
Generally speaking, a fatter edge will be better suited to heavier work, mostly due to the extra mass supporting the edge reducing its risk of rolling or chipping. The drawback is fiber cutting is more difficult, again, generally speaking. Just because the edge is steeper doesn't mean it can't be just as sharp, but for wood etc. chopping a soft sharp edge probably isn't best, anyway.
Normally a proper kuk confess with smaller companion tools, one small knife used for the finer tasks and a blunt steel used the same as a butcher's steel, to realign rolled edges in the field. Seems yours doesn't have those, though.
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Post by mlpfan on Dec 30, 2012 23:14:33 GMT
in nepal they sharpen the edge at different angles at different places on the blade, the area closest to the handle behind the "kink" in the blade is kept razor sharp, while the rest of the blade out past the kink is given a fat chopping edge. so they can both chop with it and slice with it.
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Post by applejack on Dec 31, 2012 15:48:11 GMT
that what i had heard so, that is why i when i 1st sharpen this thing i spent more time on the kink. So,25-35 degrees for the belly and keep the 23 degrees for the kink area? I am going to take a file to it to make sure it get really sharp.
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Post by randomnobody on Dec 31, 2012 18:11:06 GMT
Oh yeah, I'd read that before, too. Forgot all about it. Makes sense.
I'm rather curious how hard the edge is on yours. If it files easily, I'd worry it might be a bit soft and need sharpening again soon. Of course, if you have to really fight it, it should last a while.
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Post by applejack on Dec 31, 2012 20:13:32 GMT
it's in the middle not really soft and not really hard. when i 1st sharpen it, it took a long time and a long of fileing to do. In fact i did a little fileing on it over 3 days. As i said it not really dull it's just starting to stick on the wood when i am cutting on it, other soft things like milk jugs and there like cuts clean.
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Post by mlpfan on Dec 31, 2012 21:14:19 GMT
do you sharpen all your stuff with a file? dude you need a set of stones to put a decent edge on any kind of cutting tool, a file puts a super rough edge on anything. that might be why you are having trouble cutting bottles. and yes 25-35 for the belly and 23 for the kink should do ok, but stones will do better than a file
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Post by applejack on Dec 31, 2012 21:25:23 GMT
I have a Smith's Arkansas TRI-HONE Sharpening Stones System and a 2 sided coarse synthetic stone. I only use a file to fix damge blades and the stones for sharping. the Smith's has medium Arkansas stone (600 grit), fine Arkansas stone (1,000 grit), and coarse synthetic stone. I use my other stone the 2 sided coarse synthetic stone for anything that does not need a really fine edge on it.
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Post by mlpfan on Dec 31, 2012 21:31:27 GMT
you know i had one of those and never could get it to work right, I just use my hand and a stone and go by feel. gonna go out on a limb and say that the budk is not going to have a good steel in it, the ones that come from nepal are made from the rear springs of old trucks, good high carbon spring steel.
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Post by randomnobody on Dec 31, 2012 22:07:04 GMT
Your steel sounds pretty normal, perhaps a bit soft, but not overly so.
I'm inclined to agree that a filed edge is probably not the best, as it would leave burrs and micro-serrations that would roll and bend every which way, unless you've got a super fine file. I've been using the same Smith's double-sided diamond hone for years now, but it never gets the finish I really want so I tend to have to use a kitchen steel to check for burrs and I've got an old leather belt I've been using as a makeshift strop to finish. A while back I picked up a Lansky professional system from knife center for something like $45-50 but it's only for the knives that want to play stubborn. A kukri would probably be too big for it.
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Post by mlpfan on Dec 31, 2012 22:46:54 GMT
I use a leather strap also , it will work a lot better if you keep it coated in a polishing paste.
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Post by randomnobody on Jan 1, 2013 0:02:13 GMT
Yeah, keep meaning to pick some up, but it's doing the trick so far. I've got a couple knives i shave with, so it's doing something right. I find it challenging to strop a kuk, granted.
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Post by mlpfan on Jan 1, 2013 0:36:01 GMT
after a while the leather will fill up with metal and stop cutting, if you use a paste on it then you can remove it easy and keep on going, also be sure to keep it taught or lay it on a flat surface, if you use it loose the leather will want to fold over the blade and take the edge off
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Post by randomnobody on Jan 1, 2013 0:52:55 GMT
Yep. I make a point to clean it regularly and watch sides for rolling. Been using it over a year now with adequate results.
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Post by mlpfan on Jan 1, 2013 22:27:41 GMT
be sure to use a light pressure, if you press to hard it will mess the edge up
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