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Post by metinemre on Dec 23, 2012 8:34:42 GMT
Is sharpening a pocket knife or a knife different from the swords? Some videos i watched in youtube are diffferent then sthe sword sharpening video in sbg web site. It looks pocket knife sharpening works the opposite way? I`m a little confused, how do you sharpen your knives?
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Post by Adrian Jordan on Dec 23, 2012 20:17:47 GMT
It's different, yes. You can use the same materials, though. Mostly it's that the majority of pocket knives have a strong secondary bevel instead or a convex edge. Personally, I use a Lansky guide-Hone system. Pretty cheap and easy to use. I also really, really want a Spyderco Sharpmaker. That one costs a bit more, though, and I'm broke. I'm awful at free-hand, so I can't give you any real pointer there.
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Post by metinemre on Dec 25, 2012 3:53:52 GMT
Thanks
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Post by metinemre on Dec 25, 2012 7:32:54 GMT
I watched videos of both lansky and spyderco. Lansky looks easier to use, maybe more stuff to screw etc but looks guaranteed angle. Did anyone have a chance to try both?
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Post by Adrian Jordan on Dec 25, 2012 20:11:59 GMT
You do get a steady angle, but there are some downers for the Lansky. The guide rods are flimsy and the screw that holds them to the hone tend to come loose. Those are the biggies. It's annoying when you realize that the rod is no longer where you wanted it, but that your angle has been off for a few swipes. It says to use only finger pressure to tighten it, but I use pliers. Just doesn't work else wise. It can also be time consuming, which I understand is true of both kits. Both have diamond hones that go to them, and those cut down on time significantly, but you'll need ceramic hones to remove the often aggressive scratching on the edge from the diamond ones. Lastly, you'll need to put a layer or two of tape on the blade where the clamps go, or they can gouge the finish a bit.
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Post by metinemre on Dec 25, 2012 21:52:20 GMT
Yeah that`s what i thought. I guess i`ll stick on traditional sharpening method with tri hone systems or bench stones to get a little more experience, everytime i try with my test knife i get better. Still not razor sharp but can cut paper now. I noticed i wasn`t applying enough pressure on my previous tries.
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Post by Adrian Jordan on Dec 25, 2012 23:33:07 GMT
That's probably better. As good as guided systems are, you are restricted by the angles they give you. Free-hand, you are able to do any angle you want.
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Post by metinemre on Dec 26, 2012 0:29:50 GMT
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Post by Adrian Jordan on Dec 26, 2012 1:50:12 GMT
I think any of those would work. You have to sharpen in section with most large blades anyway. As for the Sharpmaker, mind you some systems have it 20 degrees as in a 20 degree slant of each side, making for a 40 degree edge. The Sharpmaker is a 10 on each side for a real 20 degree edge, so it is much sharper than say a Lansky set at 20 degrees. That was a bit windy, but I hope it was clear, hahaha.
I want one of those Smith Diamond tri-stones as well, but as I said, I couldn't free-hand sharpen a blade to save my life.
I would say that a stone would work better for the Gladius.
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Post by metinemre on Dec 26, 2012 2:07:32 GMT
Well best thing with amazon they refund your money if you don`t like something i`ll go with smith`s diamond tri-stone and experience it. Lots of nice reviews on that too. For swords or gladius machete i guess i will have to get bench stones anyway. I also read somewhere recommending valve oil or water soluble oil instead of the standard honing oils. That was interesting.
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Post by Adrian Jordan on Dec 26, 2012 3:10:34 GMT
I believe you only use water with a diamond stone, or a water-based oil.
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Post by mlpfan on Dec 27, 2012 16:20:09 GMT
I Sharpen all my knifes by hand on stones and a strop, it only took years to get really good at it, I like A VERY fine stone. then i use a paste polish on a leather strop.
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Post by metinemre on Jan 2, 2013 7:46:39 GMT
So far looks the best sharpening system ever. Not single negative comment anywhere.
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George
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Post by George on Jan 2, 2013 8:22:30 GMT
I have owned and used both the Spyderco Tri angle and the Lansky system.
Here is the lowdown. I sold the Lansky, still use the Spyderco.
I found the Lansky to be too complex. The idea is simple but all the bits and pieces got a bit silly. Also i have a few knives i could not sharpen with it. Like my swiss army pocket knife. As the L piece that holds the knife, the rod stone would catch on the L piece before getting the right angle on the blade.
I have used the spyderco on everything, from scissors to kitchen knives and they are all sharp as hell. It really is such a simple thing to use, under 5 mins u got a super sharp blade.
Ok so the problems with the Spyderco? If you dont have a 30 or 40 degree blade it will take AGES to get it down to that angle. Also if you want a different angle you cant (but why you would ever need anything different is beyond me).
All in all i can 100% recommend the Spyderco, steer away from Lansky.
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Post by metinemre on Jan 10, 2013 4:14:22 GMT
Ok i guess this is the ultimate sharpening system
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Post by Joe Shield on Jan 10, 2013 4:21:53 GMT
For my knives I only use japanese waterstones, I do prefer scandi grind knives though and it puts a mirror polish on them with a 6000 or higher grit and a nagura stone.
The Spyderco system works wonders from a friends I used on, oddly enough my spyderco tenacious, all depends on the grind of your blade and how much you want to spend.
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Post by metinemre on Jan 10, 2013 4:57:44 GMT
i`m close to getting a spyderco but i`m worried about angles. I have a set of cold steel recon 1 tanto blade knives. 2-3-4`` i`m not sure if spyderco is good to sharpen them.
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George
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Posts: 1,899
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Post by George on Jan 10, 2013 6:58:47 GMT
I have a Cold Steel Voyager (big brother of the recon) and the Spyderco Tri angle at 40 Degree's, works sweet! Seems like cold steel are factory ground at 40 anyway so 10 sec's its back to razor sharp.
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Post by atrixnet on Sept 22, 2014 2:40:57 GMT
This. This is what I needed to know. It's a 40 degree bevel then hmm? Adrian here on the phone uses this system and recommends it: www.amazon.com/dp/B000FKM41S/ref ... TP4KV73HOC I'm not so sure. After youtubing for hours it seems you need the following: sandpaper 3M wet/dry 600 grit, 800 grit 1000 grit, 1200 grit, leather strop. My problem is the angling while doing the grits. The strop is much more forgiving in that it doesn't really care too much about the angle of the blade while it polishes off the microscopic burrs. So what to do about the angles? The sandpaper seems so straightforward, easy as dropping a rock. It's the angles that trip me up. I need to find out how to solve this problem.
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