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Post by Deleted on Nov 13, 2007 16:33:20 GMT
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Post by Deleted on Nov 14, 2007 5:25:08 GMT
If you are going to use this sword for sparing, you WANT a blunt edge AND a rounded point. Safety first!
Because of this, the only sword that would be suitable for that is the last one (the practical line is designed specifically for sparing).
That being said, I note that these three types of sword are quite different from one another (late one and half, broadsword, side-sword). Which type is the right for you is something only you can decide.
Ancalagon
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Post by Deleted on Nov 14, 2007 10:48:04 GMT
well safety if an issue but we have quite some experience in sparring so that takes it down a bit ![8-)](//storage.forums.net/forum/images/smiley/cool.png) - we're practicing 2canne de combat" and would like to expand is french cut&thrust late hand and half ? - looks like one hand to me - specially since it comes with a dagger i need a cutting sword for sparring - one handed, cutting is mostly done with the last 1/4 of the sword - it exploits the sword shaprnes instead of crushing power (renesaince technique, sabre etc.) am deciding between side sword and braodsword - frenc is too expencive and has no reviews whichever i choose ... review will be posted ![;)](//storage.forums.net/forum/images/smiley/wink.png)
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Post by Deleted on Nov 14, 2007 11:44:00 GMT
well i decited to go with the side sword - probably the non-practical version decision was made based on this review www.myarmoury.com/talk/viewtopic.php?t=11358of basket hilt - i need more flexible grip and this one seems very tight - it closes your fist so u can't rotate the blade or let it loose a bit has a great blade though we're also getting a pair of hutton sabres - rewies to follow
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Post by Deleted on Nov 15, 2007 7:36:46 GMT
Psihoxxx, you just joined this forum. Why rush? Take your time and read the reviews. There is no middle ground between sharps and blunts. One is safe for drilling and sparring, the other is not. If you join any established fighting group, they tend to be very picky about what you can use and what you can't. My WMA group prohibits Hanwai blunts. They usually don't let you sparr with steel blunts untill you have been there some time and have proven blade control. A blunt sword is still deadly. If you just want have some fun with your friends, you should get a padded sword. Consider www.rsw.com.hk/Also consider that rapier and sidesword fencing groups often require a flexi-blade. I can help you more if you tell me more details on how you want to use this sword. Who will you sparr with? If you wait a few weeks and keep reading reviews, you may find that your choice changes. That basket hilt broadsword from Hanwai looks nice. At some point I might get it myself.
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Post by Deleted on Nov 15, 2007 10:28:29 GMT
Being a re-enactor myself i can tell you that you need blunts, no self respecting group is going to allow you to use sharp or semi sharp no matter how talented you might think yourself to be. We use hanwei's and albions in my group, i would personally save up and get an albion as i trust them more than anything that isn't custom made. Hanwei is ok but i started with some custom mades from england one of the guys there has but he is moving onto an albion as well.
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Post by Deleted on Nov 15, 2007 11:24:31 GMT
well we've been practicing with wooden stuff for two years now... we're practicing sport version of sparring - it's intention is to hit the opponent as many times as possible ![8-)](//storage.forums.net/forum/images/smiley/cool.png) : but not to worry ... we're not goig to try THAT with live steel the technique is called canne de combat - it uses only cuts because it's mant as a sport and thrusts are too dangerous with wood for sport usage - it uses cuts with the last third of the blade and is probably the most appropriate for sword that are somewhere between the rapier and medieval sword we're tryin to expand our knowledge to real sword and stage fight - fighting with the intent not to hit your opponent, but for him to block your strikes - we tried that with some florets we've borroved (it loked silly sice they're thrusting swords- but it worked) ... don't worry we've quite some experience in this stuff and are not rushing head first into this i've read most of reviews on swordforum and here, before logging in here, mostly to ask about the "french cut&thrust" model and to see if any of you guys know how the mentioned models act in steel to steel combat
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Post by rammstein on Nov 15, 2007 17:38:37 GMT
Canne de combat is something I've seen before - and it's got little to do with swords. The entire art is questionable, in my opinion, when related to swords. Go take a look at some youtube vids of the sport - a trained wordsman who has actually studied fighting arts would find the whole thing far removed from actual combat. Canne de Combat doesn't derive from swords, as far as I know.
That doesn't mean it's bad of course. It's just got nothing at all to do with swords.
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Post by Deleted on Nov 15, 2007 23:27:39 GMT
canne uses a wooden stick that is very light, because of the safety ... that's why it looks a bit away from the sword - it became much faster with long circular strikes since the stick has no edge and needs heavier punch well to be honest a big part of the technique can't be seen in videos since it moved to canne self defence from safety reasons (kicking, strikes in the groin, thrusts etc)
it is similar to cutting with the rapier... just shorten the strikes and add thrusting... that's why i'm thinking of a sword that is similar to rapier but with a bit more cutting involved - so i started thinking side sword? looks like sabre fencing also.. so we're getting a pair of huttons as well...
p.s. we're trying different options and aiming on stage fight...
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Post by Deleted on Nov 17, 2007 4:48:04 GMT
If you have a lot of experience with wooden weapons but not steel ones, I think it's even MORE important that you get blunt steel to start!
I'm not very experienced, but I can tell you that steel on steel does not act at all the same as wood on wood. Wood bounces, steel slides. By going straight to a sharp edge and point, you are skipping a crucial step here...
Ancalagon
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Post by Deleted on Nov 18, 2007 1:57:53 GMT
I have never heard of this form of stickfighting until now. I searched and watched some Videos on You Tube. I also found some info on Wikipedia. The stick is meant to represent a Gentleman's cane. Thrusts are prohibited. Simultaneous hits are not allowed. If the other person starts an attack, you must parry it before you can attack or you don't score.
Here is a link to a good Vid:
Psihoxxx, I will focus on your quest "we're trying to expand our knowledge to real sword ". I think that is a good goal. You are correct in picking a cut and thrust sword to try an apply these methods too. That style is 50% cuts 50% thrusts. An English broadsword style would be even closer to your training. It is 90% cut based. From what I see in the video, the cuts in Canne are mostly from the shoulder and elbow. You also twist the hip for torque. This is good, because that method will work with a 3 lb sword. If I saw that all the stick strikes where coming from the wrist, I would say that there is little that can transfer over to a sword. But that is not the case from what I see in the Vid. The footwork of advancing, retreating to manipulate the distance will also transfer over very well. That is perhaps the most important skill.
There are some things you will have to change, such as the concept of right or way. It does not exist in a real sword fight. That spinning around stuff will also not serve you well. I don't know if it is done in Canne for extra points or to generate more power, but you never turn your back on a deadly weapon. You don't need to overpower your cuts with an edged weapon. You will also need to learn to parry thrusts and make thrusts. This will be easy in comparison to footwork or cuts.
But over-all, I think you would have a very smooth transition to English-Scottish Broadsword or Cut and Thrust.
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Post by Deleted on Nov 18, 2007 4:46:32 GMT
the spinning is both for generating power and also misdirection, when your back is to your opponent he can't see what you are doing and it is harder to block the attack when it comes because it comes with so much power and speed. Spinning when using a sword is the height of stupidity, unless you have a shield to lead with and even then it is not a good idea.
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Post by Deleted on Nov 18, 2007 9:56:41 GMT
Bloodwraith, you just reminded me. I forgot to comment on the misdirections, which I did notice in the vids. I was rather impressed with that. Those misdirections will work well well with the sword. I noticed that those too were being generated by moving the elbow as oppose to the wrist. I am rather surprised of how much or the stick work is done with the body, shoulder and elbow. I would have guessed that for a light stick the wrist would have been enough. Learning about Canne has been fascinating for me.
I recall reading that undercuts are not permitted, so psihoxxx would have to work on that.
Bloodwraith, thanks for confirming the purpose backspins. I will second your advice on never turning your back on another swordman, even with a shield... and a suit of armor on top of that.
One further note. None of my comments are meant to discredit established Canne technique. I am only pointing out some adjustments that would be advisable if you transitioned that stick form to a broadsword form.
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Post by Deleted on Nov 18, 2007 22:25:50 GMT
the strikes are done from the shoulder, elbow and hips to deliver more force ... turns are to bluff the enemy or combine some hits with movement: they are quite difficult since your opponent can hit you while doing them but once u get into it they can save you some hits - if done fast and at the right moment so that you don't get hit - i tried it with floret in it kinda worked but with something heavier... dunno all the strikes are controlled so we don't hit with full power - again an issue that will probablly prove harder with heavier equpment
yes canne does apply to gentleman's stick ... it uses sword technique on stick since swords became forbidden for civil population to wear in public - after on when it turned into sport it lost some elements because of safety
thanks on reply... it's really helpful since we're new on this on do need tips and oppinions on how to start this whole deal
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