Hiking/camping hatchet
Nov 4, 2012 14:42:43 GMT
Post by Lukas MG (chenessfan) on Nov 4, 2012 14:42:43 GMT
Howdy folks
Today I got something different to show you: a small hatchet. As usual, I took way too many pics and couldn't decide which ones to throw out
Click right and open pics in a new tab to see in right size.
Now usually I only make blades but I was in dire need of a small camping / hiking hatchet so I decided to give this a try, never having attempted an axe before. I did run into a few problems (drifting an axe eye is a pain :lol: ) but I‘m actually very happy with how it turned out and deeply enjoyed working on this little guy!
Stats:
Steel: hand forged C60, edge quenched in oil and tempered to a hardness of 56-57Rc.
Wood: seasoned ash
Overall length: 45cm (17.7“)
Handle length: 40.5cm (16“)
Length of cutting edge: 7.5cm (3“)
Weight of axe head: 440g (0.97lb)
Overall weight: 670g (1.47lb)
Working on this was a very interesting experience, very different from what I usually do. The basic skills of blade making still apply here but I was required to rethink a few things in my making process and adapt to a new situation.
While the head was roughly hand forged to shape (drifting the eye and working down the bevels), most working time was still spent on grinding and sanding. I do not (yet) posses the skills to forge an axe head so closely to shape that no grinding is required and besides, I did not want a forge finish on this but seeked a fairly smooth and sleek appearance. Not as highly finished as my swords and knives as it will see a ton of hard use but still refined, especially regarding the overall shaping. So I polished it to about 400 grit, deliberately leaving some scratches from lower grit in the steel and then lightly antiqued the steel with vinegar. I feel this gives the head a nice, lightly used finish that will only get better over time with natural aging.
It‘s not easy to make out in the pics but I did get a nice hardening line from the edge quench. As my swords and knives sport a TH spring temper, this was the first time I‘ve ever done an edge quench and I find myself loving this look
The head sports a fairly slender and thin geometry, designed to bite deep with minimum effort. I do not expect to be felling hardwood trees with this hatchet so there‘s no need for a durable steep edge angle. Since small hatchets like this are often used for carving and other delicate work, a razor sharp edge with suitable geometry is a must. In fact, this hatchet could easily replace a knife for most tasks such as processing game, making feather sticks, etc.
For the handle, I purchased a way oversized ash handle at the hardware store and cut it down to the needed size and shape. I had to go that route as my axe eye did not fit any of the standart sized handles. With all the extra material, this also allowed me to shape the handle exactly how I wanted it to.
I was lucky to find a piece with perfect grain orientation.
The head is secured with a single hardwood wedge. There‘s much debate on whether or not to add a metal wedge. I chose not to, simple because I dislike the look and figure for a small hatchet like this that is not abused nearly as much as a full size felling axe, a well placed wooden wedge should suffice. There‘s also the saying that a metal wedge can split the grain and that‘s something I‘d rather avoid. If the head ever gets loose, I might think about adding a metal wedge but for now, I‘ll call it good.
After mounting the head and final sanding, everything was treated with boiled linseed oil. I made sure the wood absorbed as much oil as possible by soaking it for a couple hours in oily rags.
Finally, a handle protection and sheath were made from thick leather. When splitting wood, the handle part righ below the head is often damaged by striking to deeply into the wood or overswinging. While the leather probably won‘t absorb a full hit, it will certainly take away some of the force and prolong the handle‘s life. It also makes for a very nice gripping surface when choking up to do delicate work.
Now I haven‘t handled any high quality hatchets like GB or Wetterlings so I have nothing to compare to but I love how this one feels. It‘s light and handy yet feels very aggressive in hand when gripped at the end. Choking up and doing fine work is very comfortable, too.
Due to its light weight and handy size, it‘s a joy to carry around in the belt or back pack. From now on it will certainly be my companion any time I go into the woods.
Here are some pics of my testing the hatchet. I think it performed wonderfully. No edge damage whatsoever, still very sharp after cutting a dead, hard 3“ sapling, splittings some wood and making a featherstick. The linseed oil cover has rubbed off in a few places on the head and the leather protection shows some signs of wear but that‘s all (frankly, the scratches in the leather are simply the result of my clumsyness with an axe... first time I‘ve used one in about 4 years :lol: )
What I love most about axes is how they combine three of the most beautiful materials into one package: Steel, wood and leather. With swords, it‘s mostly steel and only a tiny litte bit wood and leather but here at least wood and steel fulfill comparably important roles. For me who usually works with steel for the most time, it was a wonderful experience getting more into wood working and I‘ll certainly continue exploring this in the future!
All in all, I‘m very happy with my new baby and am looking forward to all the years of good service I‘ll get out of it!
Any comments and criticism welcome!
Today I got something different to show you: a small hatchet. As usual, I took way too many pics and couldn't decide which ones to throw out
Click right and open pics in a new tab to see in right size.
Now usually I only make blades but I was in dire need of a small camping / hiking hatchet so I decided to give this a try, never having attempted an axe before. I did run into a few problems (drifting an axe eye is a pain :lol: ) but I‘m actually very happy with how it turned out and deeply enjoyed working on this little guy!
Stats:
Steel: hand forged C60, edge quenched in oil and tempered to a hardness of 56-57Rc.
Wood: seasoned ash
Overall length: 45cm (17.7“)
Handle length: 40.5cm (16“)
Length of cutting edge: 7.5cm (3“)
Weight of axe head: 440g (0.97lb)
Overall weight: 670g (1.47lb)
Working on this was a very interesting experience, very different from what I usually do. The basic skills of blade making still apply here but I was required to rethink a few things in my making process and adapt to a new situation.
While the head was roughly hand forged to shape (drifting the eye and working down the bevels), most working time was still spent on grinding and sanding. I do not (yet) posses the skills to forge an axe head so closely to shape that no grinding is required and besides, I did not want a forge finish on this but seeked a fairly smooth and sleek appearance. Not as highly finished as my swords and knives as it will see a ton of hard use but still refined, especially regarding the overall shaping. So I polished it to about 400 grit, deliberately leaving some scratches from lower grit in the steel and then lightly antiqued the steel with vinegar. I feel this gives the head a nice, lightly used finish that will only get better over time with natural aging.
It‘s not easy to make out in the pics but I did get a nice hardening line from the edge quench. As my swords and knives sport a TH spring temper, this was the first time I‘ve ever done an edge quench and I find myself loving this look
The head sports a fairly slender and thin geometry, designed to bite deep with minimum effort. I do not expect to be felling hardwood trees with this hatchet so there‘s no need for a durable steep edge angle. Since small hatchets like this are often used for carving and other delicate work, a razor sharp edge with suitable geometry is a must. In fact, this hatchet could easily replace a knife for most tasks such as processing game, making feather sticks, etc.
For the handle, I purchased a way oversized ash handle at the hardware store and cut it down to the needed size and shape. I had to go that route as my axe eye did not fit any of the standart sized handles. With all the extra material, this also allowed me to shape the handle exactly how I wanted it to.
I was lucky to find a piece with perfect grain orientation.
The head is secured with a single hardwood wedge. There‘s much debate on whether or not to add a metal wedge. I chose not to, simple because I dislike the look and figure for a small hatchet like this that is not abused nearly as much as a full size felling axe, a well placed wooden wedge should suffice. There‘s also the saying that a metal wedge can split the grain and that‘s something I‘d rather avoid. If the head ever gets loose, I might think about adding a metal wedge but for now, I‘ll call it good.
After mounting the head and final sanding, everything was treated with boiled linseed oil. I made sure the wood absorbed as much oil as possible by soaking it for a couple hours in oily rags.
Finally, a handle protection and sheath were made from thick leather. When splitting wood, the handle part righ below the head is often damaged by striking to deeply into the wood or overswinging. While the leather probably won‘t absorb a full hit, it will certainly take away some of the force and prolong the handle‘s life. It also makes for a very nice gripping surface when choking up to do delicate work.
Now I haven‘t handled any high quality hatchets like GB or Wetterlings so I have nothing to compare to but I love how this one feels. It‘s light and handy yet feels very aggressive in hand when gripped at the end. Choking up and doing fine work is very comfortable, too.
Due to its light weight and handy size, it‘s a joy to carry around in the belt or back pack. From now on it will certainly be my companion any time I go into the woods.
Here are some pics of my testing the hatchet. I think it performed wonderfully. No edge damage whatsoever, still very sharp after cutting a dead, hard 3“ sapling, splittings some wood and making a featherstick. The linseed oil cover has rubbed off in a few places on the head and the leather protection shows some signs of wear but that‘s all (frankly, the scratches in the leather are simply the result of my clumsyness with an axe... first time I‘ve used one in about 4 years :lol: )
What I love most about axes is how they combine three of the most beautiful materials into one package: Steel, wood and leather. With swords, it‘s mostly steel and only a tiny litte bit wood and leather but here at least wood and steel fulfill comparably important roles. For me who usually works with steel for the most time, it was a wonderful experience getting more into wood working and I‘ll certainly continue exploring this in the future!
All in all, I‘m very happy with my new baby and am looking forward to all the years of good service I‘ll get out of it!
Any comments and criticism welcome!