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Post by Deleted on Oct 26, 2012 3:34:15 GMT
I've been looking for a while and found a sword that I like - the Ronin Dojo Pro. It was hard finding anything bad at all about Ronin Swords from reviews - they sound simple and straightforward - just what I like. The Ronin Dojo Pro is defiantly a good sword and can probably take a good beating, but it doesn't have any bells and whistles. And I like bells and whistles. And then I saw the SBG Black Dragon. Fancy, good looking, and all black (Coolness + 10), I knew it was a good sword right from the get-go. But is it as tough as the Dojo Pro? If it is, it'll be perfect. Although once I get some spending cash I'll probably buy both, which do you think I should get as my first sword? Any other suggestions are also appreciated. Thanks.
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Post by Adrian Jordan on Oct 26, 2012 3:51:15 GMT
Hahaha, actually, the Ronin has a lot of bells and whistles. Bull horn fittings on the saya, silk ito, real iron fittings for the handle. Those are not found on all swords at this price point. The SBG looks very nice, but a lot of the materials used in its construction are not on par with those used on the Ronin. The SBG is DH, is it has a hamon, which is very attractive. Both should be tough enough within their intended areas of use. Hard to say which one is better, though. What are you intending to do with it? Is it going to be a heavy cutter, or mostly for display with maybe light cutting?
And welcome to SBG!
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Post by etiennehamel on Oct 26, 2012 18:37:50 GMT
i have a ronin dojo pro and if i had the chance to redo the buying again i would choose that again though i would go for a longer blade... mine has a 27 inches blade and i'm used to cutting with a longer blade (28 inches blade was my first blade to ever handle and i'm quite used to it) at least now you have the chance to buy one with the lenght i would like to have. the only thing i don't like about the 29 inch one (28 because of the habaki) is the tsuba design but that can be changed i accidentally hit a cement brick with my dojo pro, the edge was damaged but i still can cut with it (with the dent it just looks used but can still cut good needless to say i a tear came from my eyes when i hit the brick :lol: ) i hope someone who does have the sbg katana you're interested in will give his/her insight on the sword. welcome to the forum!
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Post by frzburn on Oct 26, 2012 21:07:44 GMT
Which one is it?
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Post by Kumdoalan on Oct 26, 2012 23:54:51 GMT
I looked at the review of the SNG sword - viewtopic.php?f=6&t=587I next looked at the Dojo-Pro www.sword-buyers-guide.com/Dojo-Pro.htmland it's a toss up. I do NOT believe you should allow the price enter into this pick as the price of both is so close that you dont want it to affect your decision. The real difference seems only to be in the type of steel used and the hamon. The Hamon of the SBG sword is great....The fittings seem a bit quiet. There is no hamon, but it has a steel that is not so prone to fail/chip. Thus as both swords seem a lot alike, its your personal choice. Im glad I do not face this decision right now, .... I tend to like the Hamon , but thats just a personal leaning I have.
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Post by aussie-rabbit on Oct 27, 2012 6:48:06 GMT
Please remember the hamon is there for a reason, it shows the blade edge is harder than the spine, this allows for a harder edge than is possible with through hardening.
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Post by Kumdoalan on Oct 27, 2012 6:56:46 GMT
I always felt that the only difference is that the hamon tells you that spine did not get hard, not that the cutting edge got harder.
I have taken the same steel 5160 and done a quench with clay on the spine to stop the spine from getting hard, and I have done a through hardening later on the same blade. I never felt that the Clay covered blade was harder.
I actually think its more likely that a clay coated blade will have areas along the cutting edge that dont get as hard as other areas...
The reason for this is I have seen Bladesmiths paint stripes with the clay all the way down to the very cutting edge...this has to mean there is a slight chance that at places here or there along the cutting edge you will find softer forms of Steel structures.
Just what i was thinking anyway....I could be wrong
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Post by aussie-rabbit on Oct 27, 2012 7:39:50 GMT
We are both correct, I said "the blade edge is harder than the spine," - The blade in question is T10, so if you took a drill bit and heated it to quench temp. (orange) dropped it in water, then dropped it on the floor it would break, because the drill bit has become brittle, T10 will harden to 60+ RC so after tempering you will have an edge that is harder than the spine for an average edge hardness of say 55 and a spine around 40 or so.
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