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Post by fullmetal56 on Aug 26, 2012 6:03:02 GMT
Here is my design for a survival/combat knife. Would like to be your guys' thoughts on it. Would you add anything or remove something, is the gut hook to close to the saw. I'd like to know stuff like that. This design is majorly inspired by a survival/combat knife by Ross Makoske on deviantart.com I did some major/minor changes to his design so it would meet my needs for wilderness survival and/or combat. Drew it up in photoshop. The knife will be 13 inches total with the blade area being 8 inches long and the hilt being 5 inches. Attachments:
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Talon
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Post by Talon on Aug 26, 2012 7:33:00 GMT
if it was me i'd remove the saw from the back of the blade,you wont be able to effectively batton with the sawback and they're not easy to re sharpen in the field,aswell as being somewhat limited in use,you're better off with a dedicated folding saw,i would also lose the gut hook and make the first finger choil deeper and get rid of the second finger cut out,other than that it looks to be a good design
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Paul
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Post by Paul on Aug 26, 2012 8:10:48 GMT
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Post by Deleted on Aug 26, 2012 8:12:04 GMT
I agree. I'm not so much against a sawback but I think a non-sawback is much more useful. Also I would not put the gut-hook/line-cutter so close to the thumb. That hole in the blade can also be used to bolt on weights when you want a heavier swing.
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Post by fullmetal56 on Aug 26, 2012 8:15:10 GMT
Explain the baton thing, I don't understand what you mean, I wouldn't exactly be twirling it around if that's what you mean. And why lose the gut hook? I mean it's much more for survival than anything else, a bunch of tools in one rather than having to lug a bunch around. For instance the gut hook is for just that, gutting an animal while also having a secondary function for cutting rope or line. The saw isn't serrations, the teeth are full fledged teeth, they shouldn't need to be sharpened at all as there would be no blade on them. The saw could be used for cutting small limbs or even bones, small tasks but useful none the less. I fully understand what you mean about getting rid of the second finger cut out and deepening the first finger choil, but it's a design I like and I might end up taking that advice if it doesn't feel right in my hand after I get it made. Thanks for the review!
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Post by fullmetal56 on Aug 26, 2012 8:17:05 GMT
I actually hadn't thought of using the hole with weights, that's actually a really great idea
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Paul
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Post by Paul on Aug 26, 2012 8:19:06 GMT
quick google search always comes through Batoning Technique
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Post by fullmetal56 on Aug 26, 2012 8:19:43 GMT
I swear I've never ever seen that knife before lol, and good god that's an expensive knife. Mine will be made from S-7 steel and will be made for around $40 excluding labor which would still only take it to around $80 tops.
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Post by fullmetal56 on Aug 26, 2012 8:22:45 GMT
Ok I understand the baton thing now :lol: I can honestly say I've never had to do that before while out in the woods but it is a good point that the serrations would kind of almost prevent it if I ever needed to.
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Post by Deleted on Dec 27, 2012 11:23:29 GMT
[/attachment][/quote]
Am I the only one who thinks 13 inches is a little too long?
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Talon
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Post by Talon on Dec 27, 2012 11:52:32 GMT
An 8 inch blade with a 5 inch handle works for me,my personal survival/combat knife has a 5 inch handle and a 7 inch blade and handles really nicely.The ops blade design would benefit from a little extra length so 8 should be fine
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Post by raf2 on Dec 27, 2012 12:20:31 GMT
This is my survival knife. I like having serrations/saw. Handle is insulated and has a great pommel. Understand that this is an aircrew knife, thus the insulation and pointed pommel for breaking through plexi/ glass, and cutting through the skin of a plane.
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George
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Post by George on Dec 27, 2012 12:29:38 GMT
Nice, Paul ive got the Spartan Enyo and Ares on my Buy list Good design man, i agree, loose the serrations.
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George
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Post by George on Dec 27, 2012 12:34:36 GMT
For comparisons my survival knife is the ESEE 5: www.eseeknives.com/rc-5.htmMine is actually this colour: Laugh at me if you want as its not 'tacti-cool' BUT the point of the knife is not too loose it if semprini hits the fan. Its alot easier to see bright orange and green on the ground than black and dark green, if you get my drift...
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Talon
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Post by Talon on Dec 27, 2012 22:34:36 GMT
Nothing wrong with that knife regardless of the colour,a well thought out and solidly built blade
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George
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Post by George on Dec 28, 2012 0:31:09 GMT
I would say its the heaviest knife ive ever held, even heavier than some machetes that are double its size and length. Really feels like a beast, with lots of bells and whistles, well though out blade. Much like the OP's though out design
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Post by aaronfranzen on Dec 28, 2012 3:23:59 GMT
My new survival knife I just purchased.( Buck hoodlum punk) Attachments:
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Post by Student of Sword on Dec 28, 2012 3:32:42 GMT
Good survival knife should be a little bland, plain Jane looking. I just think your design is overly complicated, trying to do too many things with one single tool. Most successful design of bushcraft knives in recent times were simply improvements over tried-and-true design of the past. I would look for an older design and try to tweak it.
PS: ESEE are great survival knives, designed by people who teach survival training. Another brand I favor is Blind Horse Knives. If you have more money, Bark River make great knives. Like Average Joe, I am a big fan of orange handle. Better yet, orange handle that grow in the dark. Cannot loose your knife, day or night.
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Post by feral on Dec 28, 2012 6:09:35 GMT
My two cents: The saw back is pretty useless with the curved handle, speaking from experience. You can't put the right pressure or angle on it. Additionally the gut hook isn't generally very useful. I used to hunt with my dad as a kid and I've skinned my fair share of deer, rabbits, squirrels, and even a bear or two and a gut hook is unnecessary flair. Any good survival knife should be thick enough and have a smooth back for batoning or for using a second hand to assist. Last comment: such a long forward heavy blade is great for cutting underbrush but for skinning you'll typically want something with either a shorter blade or a much thinner and more flexible one.
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Post by fullmetal56 on Dec 30, 2012 3:37:42 GMT
Awesome! a comment from a hunter! That's fantastic! But can you elaborate a little on why "a gut hook is unnecessary flair"?
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