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Post by birdman on Aug 25, 2012 23:39:17 GMT
So, okay, I want to put a good edge on my Strongblade Crusader, as it came tempered but unsharpened. I know on the old forum the Accusharp was mentioned as a good way to sharpen swords like this, but I have since read things about how an Accusharp ruins swords. How much truth is there to this rumor? Is it still the easiest method of putting the first useable edge on this sword?
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Post by ineffableone on Aug 26, 2012 1:17:15 GMT
Most members here will say "ACK NO DON'T USE AND ACCUSHARP!" a few will say it works fine.
In general Accusharp has fallen out of favour and in my opinion for very good reason. Accusharps remove a lot more blade material than is needed to sharpen a blade. It also creates a secondary bevel instead of a nice appleseed or convex edge. If used incorrectly Accusharps tend to leave jagged edges rather than a smooth clean edge. Some people proAccusharp say that if you are more gental with the Accusharp it does not do this.
The most suggested methods for sharpening are belt sander technique, either a harbor freight type 1" belt sander or even the Worksharp mini beltsander. Also for those who are looking for low cost, the sandpaper method is always popular. Using finer and finer grit sand paper till it is sharp. Finally water stones, the tried and true old school method.
For a fast sharpening the belt sander or worksharp is the fast and dependable way to go. Those who opt for Accusharp tend to do so due to liking that it is quick and simple. However for a better edge I would recommend the beltsander style sharpening.
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Post by birdman on Aug 26, 2012 1:34:30 GMT
I already have a belt sander, but it is the horizontal type with a 4" belt and a disk on the side, and I am not sure how well it would work (I'm also afraid of burning the edge or over-sanding it; I've only used it on a badly chipped hatchet which was smaller and easier to control). Cheaper to buy an accusharp than another belt sander, is what I am looking at. I got a great deal on the sword, or I wouldn't have gotten it. For the cost of a 1" belt sander, I might just as well have bought the sharpened version of my sword.
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Post by ineffableone on Aug 26, 2012 1:56:36 GMT
I don't know how well a 4" beltsander would work or even if the belt grits are available for it. The harbor freight 1" beltsander is only $40, so it is not that big a price tag. The Worksharp is only $60.
I tend to use the sandpaper and water stones, but have been considering getting a 1" beltsander.
Using a power tool you do have to keep an eye on how much you remove, and how much heat builds up. Check out Tom K's sharpening video and see him doing the belt sander technique.
While yes it is cheaper to buy an accusharp than a beltsander it is cheaper to put a good edge on a sword with a good sharpening technique than ruin your sword with a poor sharpener and end up having to buy a new sword to replace the one you messed up.
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Post by KentsOkay on Aug 26, 2012 2:04:39 GMT
I use an Accusharp to put the basic edge on my Windlass Raptor, then followed it up with a small fine wetstone from an old Smith's Precision Sharpener. I felt like this guy the entire time: ![](http://quicklol.com/wp-content/uploads/2012/03/chemistry-dog-no-idea.jpg) I wound up with decent results, I just trusted my gut on what felt right. Slices paper smoothly and chops coke bottles in half, I'm happy.
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Post by Elheru Aran on Aug 26, 2012 2:47:39 GMT
You can use an Accusharp; it's your sword. For something like a Strongblade, well, heck, why not?
That said, it's not a bad idea to use one to get a nice sharp edge and then blend the bevel in with a stone or sandpaper. That'll give you a better looking, if slightly fragile, edge.
In the long run though it's better to learn how to use sandpaper or stones to sharpen your sword the 'proper' way...
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Post by Don Boogie on Aug 26, 2012 4:18:16 GMT
it's better to use some decent waterstones,i have 2 waterstone's one with 240/800 grit and 2000/5000 grit,works fine for me. It take some time,but better to it slow and right than fast and semprini up an edge ![:P](//storage.forums.net/forum/images/smiley/tongue.png) (srry for the language). This set i got www.knivesandtools.nl/nl/pt/-ede ... edelig.htm
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Post by Voltan on Aug 26, 2012 5:33:01 GMT
I would stay away from the Accusharp. I attempted to put an edge on my first blade, a Strongblade Coustille Dagger, with an Accusharp. It takes steel off quick, and leaves a BAD secondary bevel. After watching Tom K's videos, I spent four hours removing the secondary bevel by hand with sandpaper. I then used the belt sander to finish with a nice appleseed edge, finally repairing the damage inflicted by the Accusharp. I did however get too close to the tip with the belt sander and rounded it off, so I had to re-profile the tip. It's good for small knives, but I wouldn't use it on anything else. Just my experience with it...
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Post by Brendan Olszowy on Aug 27, 2012 13:19:44 GMT
I'm just gonna chuck this in here. It Still seems hand tooling (specifically drawfiling) is a back alley subculture on this forum. Maybe oneday we will emerge to be considered ' mainstream', nay even subdue the raging current of beltsandermania. To those few who suggested sandpaper and stones, I solute you. Quoted from my posts a week or so ago here.
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Post by aussie-rabbit on Sept 17, 2012 14:05:27 GMT
Or you could try sword polishing 102 as an alternative. viewtopic.php?f=19&t=13285If your sword is quite blunt drop down a couple of grades of paper and start with 320/400 grit wet and dry.
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Post by Deleted on Sept 17, 2012 14:49:11 GMT
I'm with Brendan on this one, if you have a non-sharpened sword with a 1mm or 2mm flat instead of a blade, and need to remove so much metal to create an edge, if can accusharp it, you can drawfile it! Didn't people ever learn to use hand tools at secondary school metalwork classes? Maybe I'm just old school! :lol:
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Post by Elheru Aran on Sept 17, 2012 20:38:41 GMT
Great tutorial man,
I will just note though that what this does is give you almost a 'zero edge' bevel as opposed to an 'appleseed' edge-- extremely sharp but the edge itself will be very thin and sharp. It'll cut everything, but it'll be somewhat fragile so if you semprini a cut you may chip it more easily than a thicker 'appleseed' edge.
That's my guess anyway; aussie, let me know if I'm right!
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Post by aussie-rabbit on Sept 18, 2012 18:35:00 GMT
Absolutely correct, if you look towards the end you will see a note about lifting the polishing stik when finishing the edge, while not a true appleseed by any means is is a little more forgiving, I also included a note early about testing to see if you have a convex or concave grind using a flat edge, almost all common production blades are flat ground in the price ranges we see here, if you power polish the edge (as I suspect is done on less expensive blades) you will get something that resembles an appleseed.
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