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Post by Ninjadave89 on May 9, 2012 19:03:42 GMT
Recently my Atrim has been making an annoying clink noise when dry handling and ive been trying to figure out the problem. I took it apart to make sure everything is tight and secure and it all seems to be fine (and still cuts and handles beautifully), but it was still doing it. Thankfully I think I have finally figured it out today. When fully assembled, the blade twists very slightly within the guard recess, not by much but it turns a few millimeters (this seems to happen every few swings), even when the nut is tightened. I'm guessing this is either a fault of the guard (it fits quite loose to the tang) or the grip not fitting against the tang properly. I'm going to epoxy the grip like i do on all my swords and was wondering if I should epoxy the guard recess, has anyone had this problem before or found a different way to fix it.
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Post by Bradleee42 on May 9, 2012 20:34:59 GMT
DO NOT EPOXY!!!!....Use a business card to fill in the gap, use 2 if its that loose. They are removable, and not a "fix-all" permanant fix. Elmers School glue, and a couple of cards, cut down to size and shape that you need. (.... go to a restarant and pick up a handfull) and fix it that way. You'll be better off in the long run and won't have a permenant /fixed grip. You never know when you'll want to change something up. (By permenant fix I mean a solid piece of sword....keep it fixable.)
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Post by Hiroshi on May 10, 2012 0:07:02 GMT
Hi Ninjadave89, Did you purchase your ATrim through tried & true armory? If so please send us an email at triedandtruearmory@gmail.com! with your order number / date of purchase and lets see what we can do! Have a great day!
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Post by Ninjadave89 on May 10, 2012 0:39:16 GMT
Hi Hiroshi, thanks but I don't think there's any need to do anything. The sword itself is still performing brilliantly and im sure I can fix this problem very quickly.
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Post by Ninjadave89 on May 10, 2012 0:44:50 GMT
I like the idea of using shims, i've done something similar to a tsuba on a katana, and it would probably be much easier on a medieval sword. Thanks for your help everyone.
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Post by Brendan Olszowy on May 10, 2012 13:38:49 GMT
Another option you can consider is to 'backpeen' the slot in the guard - on the grip side. This is how Jeffrey and I fit our guards to our tangs on permanently assembled swords after filing them out to fit. Back peening allows us to clamp the guard down on the tang super firmly that it won't reasonably be removed or even loosened - but you can stop a step short of that when you have the nice snug fit you're looking for. All that's involved is clamping the blade firmly in a well leather padded vise, tang up. Take a centre punch to a grinder and round off the point till you have a nice round 1/8" diameter dome. You want to punch the metal close to the tang so it swells out and closes in the slot gaps. Work around all sides of the guard and start shallow and do several laps to progressively close in all sides. As mentioned you'll be able to make it as tight as you please - right up to permanently clamped on there. A little illustation :-)
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Post by Lukas MG (chenessfan) on May 10, 2012 20:56:08 GMT
I can attest that "back peening", also called "banzai-peen", works very well. I have come to use it as well. Good thinking to bring that up, Brenno.
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Post by Ninjadave89 on May 10, 2012 21:55:46 GMT
That seems like a great idea Brendan, I've been wondering for a while what banzai-peening is so that's a big help. I'm definitely going to try this, thanks for your help.
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Post by ShooterMike on May 10, 2012 22:04:07 GMT
Great description, Brenno. I've been back peening all my ATrim guards for over a year on any old ATrims I have with loose guards. Your description and photo really show how it's done. Karma!
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Post by Brendan Olszowy on May 10, 2012 23:44:12 GMT
Thanks guys. You could even do it on a pommel round the keyed area to eliminate the inherent wiggle. If you clamp the pommel in the vise with the blade/tang in pointed up, without the grip and guard on to get in the way. These refinements should fix up any wiggle in there and reduce the amount of tension needed on the nut to keep the hilt behaving it's self.
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