Greg
Senior Forumite
Posts: 1,800
|
Post by Greg on May 5, 2012 16:59:43 GMT
I've heard people say that a "good" combat worthy shield can be placed on the ground and stood upon without damage to the shield. I forget if jumping is involved, but 200 or so lbs of downward force is a good structural test. Other then that, it's all about preference. Here is a Ye Olde Gaffer's shield press: www.yeoldegaffers.com/project_shieldpress.aspAnd further isntructions on shield making: www.yeoldegaffers.com/project_shield.aspThat's only if you want a heater shield. There are other types of shields from bucklers to kite to targes to tower. There are some shields on KoA. But first you have to decide what type of shield you'd be comfortable with. Btw: If you are planning on time traveling, let me know and I'll put a kit together and come with you. Just remember, we can become incredibly powerful if we take some simple instructions back with us on how to make penicillin and how to create homogenous steel. I've got electricity generation covered.
|
|
jhart06
Member
Slowly coming back from the depths...
Posts: 3,292
|
Post by jhart06 on May 5, 2012 17:04:36 GMT
Gaffer's stuff works well too, btw, for targes and bucklers too. Just leave out the shield press/curvature.
|
|
|
Post by Hiroshi on May 5, 2012 17:41:05 GMT
If you just want functional check out darkvictory.com/html/catalog.htmlPickel barrel (as it's commonly known) is very thick plastic. It takes hard hits of SCA heavy weapons but cant be cut or stabbed through. That on top of a good gambison and your set. They also sell good helmets. As for a shield you could always laminate 3 layers of 1/4" pine plywood. This also gives you the ability to bind it around something big like a tree while it dries to give you a curved shield. This works great for a heater. If your making a viking style shield just buy 3/4" oak and cut a circle out. add a shield boss & handle and it's set.
|
|
|
Post by Unit731 on May 5, 2012 21:20:46 GMT
Hiroshi: That is genius! I was wondering how I could add curve to a shield and laminate layers without the need of a shield press. A tree! Never thought of that before! And would it be possible to make that plastic armor?
Greg: Thanks for the tutorial! I will bookmark it for my next project.
|
|
Taran
Member
Posts: 2,621
|
Post by Taran on May 6, 2012 3:11:49 GMT
It is very possible to make that plastic armour. Easily the most common armour in the sca. Like someone said above, though, while it is fantastic against bludgeoning impacts, it is not so good against blades or points. Especially points. I have Some difficulty cutting it, but my thrusts pass through it without any trouble. You might also want to look at the possibility of carpet armour if looks and accuracy are not so important. Same reason to go with plastic, really. What are you using it for?
It is historically accurate to sew chain Over canvas or leather. Not under. It is a one piece chainmail andgambeson combination. But you may as well make brigandine and wear that over a gambeson. Easier and cheaper. Any local machinist should be able to provide you with the necessary plates for cheap. Or get them from a scrapyard for cheaper. Then rivet them under a simple leather jacket or vest.
Also an option easy and cheap to make: 20Gg steel cut into certain ductwork patterns (also cheap and easy to come by from your local machine shop) riveted to a leather backing or straps, makes a perfectly serviceable clamshell for your torso. Does not look particulaly pretty, rather like you scavenged and rigged it from what you found on a battlefield. But that is a very historically accurate look
I have to ask again: what do you plan to do with it and what are the most important considerations in your acquisition?
|
|
|
Post by Hiroshi on May 6, 2012 3:24:06 GMT
I have to disagree with that part. I have a pickle barrel kidney belt that protects my kidneys and floating ribs. It's plated with large pieces of that same materal (except mines blue) I've tried stabbing through with a strong dagger and it was a complete no-go. It did "poke" it a little bit but the hole is only a couple mil deep. Imagine stabbing one of those plastic cutting boards.
I am confident that this armor would withstand live steel combat.
|
|