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Post by mike0brien on Apr 20, 2012 22:36:42 GMT
I have a cheness tenchi and today after cutting some water bottles I noticed as I cleaned it that there were some darker dots towards the end of the blade, tried rubbing them out but they won't come off. is it rust? and if so how do I fix it?
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Post by Adrian Jordan on Apr 20, 2012 23:29:24 GMT
It's probably rust or a stain. I use Metal Glo polishing paste and it works great for that kind of stuff. Flitz and Mothers Mag and Aluminum polish both work as well. A pencil eraser also is said to work on very minor rust.
If the paste doesn't work, you can use a high grit sandpaper. I use this as a last resort because it will mar the finish of the blade where applied.
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Sam H
Member
Posts: 1,099
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Post by Sam H on Apr 20, 2012 23:38:27 GMT
Adrian pretty much summed it up. You probably had some residual soda in a bottle or even milk. The thing about high carbon steel (or any carbon steel) is that it stains/rusts easily.
Get some Flitz polish (found at your local hardware or automotive store) and just polish it out with a rag.
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Post by mike0brien on Apr 21, 2012 4:18:42 GMT
Damn alright... is this something that could potentially harm the katana and should be taken care of right away? Or is it simply unsightly and can wait until I have time to get the needed materials.
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Post by Adrian Jordan on Apr 21, 2012 4:28:36 GMT
Red rust is very bad. It will continue to eat at the metal until removed. Black rust is more like a patina, so just make sure to keep the blade oiled and check frequently and it should be okay until you get the paste.
I again will say that I'd try the paste first. The paper will work for sure, but it scratches the blade and creates unevenness in the finish.
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Post by Kumdoalan on Apr 21, 2012 4:31:31 GMT
there is a lesson here. The blade you have has a built-in danger to rust if it ever gets wet....and so what do you go and use as a target?
I suggest you try pool foam noddles from the dollar store.
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Post by mike0brien on Apr 21, 2012 4:47:52 GMT
Going to try that pencil eraser idea, never know they aren't that bad after all so it could work. IF that fails I will try to find some metal glo or something else you guy suggested. Thanks for all your advice.
Oh also, on the habaki, i would assume it is from drawing but it is of course normally a dull brass color, there is some black scuff marks on it that are lines. Is that rust on it or is it from drawing and sheathing? I didn't apply much oil to it, not sure if I should or not. Thanks for info in advance.
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Post by Adrian Jordan on Apr 21, 2012 5:31:19 GMT
Don't worry, the habaki will just scuff from use. It can't be avoided(unless you never draw the sword, but that defeats the purpose.)
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Post by mike0brien on Apr 22, 2012 2:26:53 GMT
Bought some Mother Mag today. Worked great. actually made the blade a bit brighter then it was before, and took out those spots. Thanks for the help guys
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Post by Adrian Jordan on Apr 22, 2012 2:45:54 GMT
Good call. Mothers is fairly non-abrasive for a paste, and cleans very well itself, making it a great addition to an upkeep kit.
Also, remember to clean the blade very thoroughly after using the polishing paste. I recommend using alcohol of at least 91%, higher if possible. End with a nice, thin layer of oil.
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Sam H
Member
Posts: 1,099
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Post by Sam H on Apr 22, 2012 3:47:12 GMT
Don't worry too much about cutting bottles filled with water. Blood is far more corrosive than water and swords were designed to be used against targets that were filled with both water AND blood. Just give your sword the proper care after use and it'll be fine. Thousands upon thousands of bodies have been cut with swords in history and I'd say just as many water bottles have been slain in modern times. Don't fret about it too much.
There is nothing wrong with cutting water bottles so long as you properly care for your sword after use. Not everyone can afford to go buy noodles whenever they want to cut - even if they're from the dollar store.
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Post by mike0brien on Apr 22, 2012 4:04:25 GMT
Did exactly as you said actually. I actually have 100% alcohol. I use it for cleaning computers, also can be good for water cooling being it is a non-conductive fluid if pure alcohol. Anyway, polished, cleaned, oiled and away until the next time something needs to be cut anyone know of some good cheap targets???
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