|
Post by kristoferjaemz on Apr 12, 2012 10:03:28 GMT
I am looking for a vambrace that I could use as an arm guard for archery as well as armor for sword sparring. I don't want to spend too much money, and don't care much about historical accuracy. Any suggestions?
|
|
|
Post by kristoferjaemz on Apr 12, 2012 10:19:16 GMT
|
|
jhart06
Member
Slowly coming back from the depths...
Posts: 3,292
|
Post by jhart06 on Apr 12, 2012 15:05:22 GMT
I'd say for what you need, get a couple of scraps of pre-dyed black leather from tandy, go to lowe's and get some 22 ga steel. Pierce a hole, rivet the steel plating onto the leather and add holes w/ laces to tie it. Probably fourty bucks in materials, and much stronger piece.
Generally, when you buy armor, avoid things that just say 'double thick leather' without stating the oz/actual thickness, and the same goes for steel and the ga[gauge]. Those factoids being omitted usually means it's just for aesthetic wear, or barely fit to be called actual armor.
|
|
|
Post by kristoferjaemz on Apr 12, 2012 16:09:35 GMT
I've never done any leather work, and definitely never any armor work, so do I need any special tools to rivet steel to leather? Sorry to be such a noob about this, but I just have no idea where to begin when it comes to things like this.
|
|
|
Post by kristoferjaemz on Apr 12, 2012 16:12:09 GMT
|
|
jhart06
Member
Slowly coming back from the depths...
Posts: 3,292
|
Post by jhart06 on Apr 12, 2012 16:46:45 GMT
For steel, I use a drill that I have, or my dremel, 22 ga is pretty flexible.
Honestly, find a tandy in your area, and go in and tell them what you want to do. Leather is thick enough you dont *need* steel plating for your purpose, tandy can help set you up with all the tools and materials you need, their in store staff are remarkably helpful, and you should be able to find enough scraps or small bits of leather to do the bracers.
|
|
|
Post by kristoferjaemz on Apr 12, 2012 16:49:57 GMT
Well done. I'll give it a try. Thanks again.
|
|
jhart06
Member
Slowly coming back from the depths...
Posts: 3,292
|
Post by jhart06 on Apr 13, 2012 0:13:21 GMT
I've done leather-work for years, and I tell everyone, until you get to things like sword grips/scabbards or tooling, the by and large work of it can be done by anyone, no matter there experience. My first belt, that I used until I lost, I cut from a hide and only made by looking at pictures online. It has been infinitely more sturdy than the ones i've bought. And there is something in using things made by your own hands. If you decide to try and make your own, there are several tutorials out there, and I'm happy to help share my own method for them too. It's remarkably easy, it's just 90 percent having the guts to take the plunge and put knife to hide.
|
|
|
Post by ineffableone on Apr 13, 2012 0:24:14 GMT
The difference between archery arm guard and Vambrace.
Where you put the lacing or buckles etc. For archery you have to have the laces out, so they don't snag on the string, but for armor you want them in so they can't be cut and your armor fall off.
The best you might find is a bracer that laces or buckles on the bottom rather than out or in.
Making your own might be the best way to ensure you get a decent one.
|
|
|
Post by kristoferjaemz on Apr 13, 2012 2:53:10 GMT
@jhart: I've gotten myself pretty hyped over making my own archery friendly bracers. I just keep running into road blocks, and I'm doing my best not to get frustrated. I've called several craft stores, tack shops and leather outfitters in the area and the best I could come up with was a biker shop that said they would try to make it for me. I went online and found what I think is a suitable company based in California, but found that I don't really know what I am asking them for. I never imagined that there were so many types of leather, and I have absolutely no clue what type of rivets I should use. I thought the steel would be the hard part, but so far, that seems to be the only aspect that makes any sense. After a few back and forth emails, we decided on a phone conference scheduled for tomorrow during which we will attempt to decipher the appropriate "ingredients" for this project. Are there any special tools I might need? I have all of the basic carpenter's tools, but nothing beyond that. And by basic, I mean anything you find in a carpenter's tool box circa 1984. ineffableone: After viewing a number of vambraces on various websites and noticing the reverse picture on a few of them, it occurred to me that the dual purpose of my bracers could not be fulfilled by any production type vambrace on the market. I am extremely excited about doing this project, it's just a matter of figuring out what I need to execute the plan. It has certainly taken shape in my mind by now, in fact it has already gone through several cerebral revisions. Once I get over the hump of assembling the first one, it will likely be a breeze to crank out as many more as I could possibly want. I appreciate everyone's input sincerely and look forward to being able to display a finished product for everyone in the near future.
|
|
jhart06
Member
Slowly coming back from the depths...
Posts: 3,292
|
Post by jhart06 on Apr 13, 2012 4:45:44 GMT
You'll want for this, what is called 'pop rivets' I believe. Let them know you are wanting to rivet a thin gauge steel plate to a leather backing [if that is your wish]. They should be able to advise you if there is better, but to my knowledge there isn't anything stronger. Chicago screws could work too I suppose, now that I think about it.
The rest is pretty easy, but the question is, before I advise both ways do you want these to look pretty/fancy and work, and cost more, or be slightly rugged looking and work [sometimes better, but i'm biased admittedly to this option] and cost less? Since i'm biased to the rugged bit, i'll give the low down on it.
The rugged option will take only a good sharp knife[I used a utility knife for my first few projects] to trim and slice the leather, a rotary punch [you can buy hand punches, which are cheaper, but rotary punches are much easier, not much more costly, and are infinitely nicer on your hands. Hand punches have advantages, but none of them apply to the scope of your project really]. You'll want, as I said above, pop rivets and the exact size will depend on how thick of leather you want.
This is where I will flounder, as archery bracers to my understanding my need to be thinner than armor bracers. But beyond that, I would suggest doing laces for your closure method, much easier to make than a buckle assembly imho, and on a bracer I personally find them more comfortable. I would suggest then getting some cheap but not cheap-made eyelets which most leather shops will have. Most bags of eyelets will come with a small kit for a eyelet setter, which is essentially a purpose made little cylinder of steel. You punch the hole with the rotary punch, insert the eyelets on either side [i've heard debates about which side to have in or out, and both supposedly have merit.. I just make sure they all face the same way, lol]. Then you fit the little nip on the setter between them, I usually put a board under the project for the next part[note- a good 'pounding board' is useful. I started with an el cheapo cutting board, but a random hunk of hardwood will last better]. After the setter is in, give it a good whack with a hammer, and rinse and repeat.
For lacing, you have a ton of options, and pretty much anything Tandy carries for lace will serve. I personally prefer latigo lacing because it is strong and lasts, and looks gorgeous to boot. But it is one of the more pricey options. I am all for keeping costs down, but especially in the area of things like lacing, which will make or break the functionality of a pair of bracers [and eyelets to some extent.].
I bolded specific names of products I suggest, and I can try and get you links to the specific items if you'd like, all of which are available online from tandy and the leather can usually be found cheaper on ebay or in person at the Tandy store in their scrap-bins.
Cheap steel sheeting can usually be found at Lowe's or the like. A drill with a metal drilling pit, tin snips, or possibly a punch and hammer will work to make the holes in the sheet, if you need to. I've never added a metal plate to a leather backing, as i've had no need, but you may even be able to just use an exceptionally strong epoxy and save some headache.
Glad to see you're taking the plunge, and please don't hesitate to ask anything. I had no one to ask in my beginning efforts, and my poor fingers curse me for it.
|
|
|
Post by kristoferjaemz on Apr 13, 2012 20:35:23 GMT
Thanks for your help. I'll keep you posted, or ask for more help!
|
|
Greg
Senior Forumite
Posts: 1,800
|
Post by Greg on Apr 14, 2012 4:05:35 GMT
What you could do is make a leather piece as the archery armguard, with laces up the "top" of the arm, and then have a separate metal piece that you'd attached with a pipe/rod fashion. After that, anything could be used to hold the rods in place. I've made a quick paint image to show you what I mean. Just an idea, take it or not. Attachments:
|
|
jhart06
Member
Slowly coming back from the depths...
Posts: 3,292
|
Post by jhart06 on Apr 14, 2012 4:33:18 GMT
Clever do there Greg, I hadn't though of that. I guess especially just for archery, one wouldn't need to worry about the slits in the leather for the pipe fraying much.
|
|
|
Post by Dark smith on Apr 14, 2012 19:14:38 GMT
Hay also at Tandy they have a cowboy cuff pattern pack with alot of designs and ways of attaching them to your arm they work really good I use a bracer for sword fighting and archery just switch arms.
|
|
|
Post by kristoferjaemz on Apr 16, 2012 17:31:02 GMT
Greg, I like the idea, but am afraid to tackle the metal working part... I wouldn't know where to begin as far as creating the "loops" in the metal. It's a good design for someone who is versed in that kind of work. With this being my first attempt at leather/metal work, I want to keep the design as simple as possible. What I was thinking about doing is cutting a light, soft, piece of leather, roughly 4-6 oz that will cover the entire forearm, and act as an archery guard as well as a more comfortable fabric to wear. Then I was going to fasten the thicker leather and the metal plates to the top of the soft leather for the bracer. I would use eyelets and laces to secure the piece on my arm on the lower outside where it shouldn't interfere with either swordplay or archery. For my right arm I will do the same thing, but not cut the lighter leather as long, and have the laces cover the lower part of my forearm.
I am currently still talking with the leather shop to figure out what is available and what will work best for my needs. When I get started I will try to post some pics.
|
|
jhart06
Member
Slowly coming back from the depths...
Posts: 3,292
|
Post by jhart06 on Apr 17, 2012 13:56:39 GMT
I would avoid double layering it, as that's going to make it sweaty. If you want a soft lining, go with 2-3 ounce, max. And try stitching it to the top piece with an awl, which is a lot easier than it sounds or looks.
Greg, I may be pilfering that design this summer if you don't mind me using it. Makes an idea I had a lot easier.
|
|