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Post by Reaver on Apr 4, 2012 3:19:37 GMT
Anyone here know how to go about making leather armor? Something fit to the torso and armless so as to not impede movement. I've heard of boiled leather but have no clue how any of the processes work for making leather retain a shape.
and failing that, where can one buy good battle quality leather? I'm not overly optimistic about my leatherworking, since gunsmithing has been the creative limit so far. :lol:
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jhart06
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Post by jhart06 on Apr 4, 2012 5:53:16 GMT
There is a stickied topic in this section that has links to several amazing websites with patterns and step by steps, check it out.
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Post by johnapsega on Apr 6, 2012 3:48:25 GMT
I remember reading about baking it in the oven over a form of the same shape that you are trying to make, if that makes sense. I am pretty sure one of the sites I saw this on was in that stickied thread so I would follow jhart's advice.
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Post by kristoferjaemz on Apr 12, 2012 10:26:18 GMT
I don't know the first thing about making leather armor, but if I were to buy it, this is the one I would get. I think it looks wicked, and also allows for plenty of unimpeded arm movement. I've never tried it out though, it's just one of those things that I've always wanted to buy. I can't quite get my wife on the same page though. :roll: www.kultofathena.com/product.asp?item=888504&name=William+Wallace+Brigandine
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jhart06
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Post by jhart06 on Apr 12, 2012 15:02:01 GMT
A proper brigadine should be made of leather, not suede. That also makes no mention of the thickness of the metal plates inside, or if it is indeed metal. I'd pass on that specific one, but brigadines are great armor, and often easy enough to self make as well. The thread I mentioned earlier has a few ways to make them. I've come across some more too, just need to remember to update that place.
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Post by kristoferjaemz on Apr 12, 2012 16:04:22 GMT
Very true Jhart. I was going strictly by looks on that one, and with an extreme bias due to the teenage infatuation I had for the film Braveheart. After all, who cares if it stops an arrow as long as you look dashing wearing it?
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Taran
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Post by Taran on Apr 16, 2012 18:06:20 GMT
Odd, my post seems to have not posted...
In any case, the leather does Not need, in fact, to be immersed in the hot water (which does not, in turn, need to be boiling). Among those within the SCA who water-harden leather, Pouring the hot water over the leather is preferred so as to produce more control over the process. Look up Cuir Boulli," or "cuirboulli."
Also, what are you hardening it against? For bludgeoning weapons, wax hardening works better (most common form of hardened leather armour in the SCA) and is cheaper and easier. But it makes the leather easier to cut or pierce with real weapons.
Otherwise you have the option of 19th century Rubber-hardening your armour. It is an expensive, difficult, and often dangerous process because of the chemicals involved. You can't use latex, so you have to dissolve the rubber in order to impregnate the leather and then you have to bake it in and god forbid any of the dissolving hemical is still in it because then you get a fireball and possibly an explosion and... I don't recommend it.
As for putting the water-hardened leather into the oven, that is to produce the final drying of the pierce into the form you wish it to be in. You can also stick it out in the sun in the mold, but the oven tends to be faster and more even. Use a low temp, 200-250 degrees F.
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Post by kristoferjaemz on Apr 16, 2012 19:12:05 GMT
Wow, reading all of this makes me want to commission my bracer project rather than tackle it on my own.
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Taran
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Post by Taran on Apr 16, 2012 22:30:19 GMT
Water hardening leather isn't hard, it's just time consuming.
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jhart06
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Post by jhart06 on Apr 17, 2012 1:58:29 GMT
I will caution and say SCA does not equate to the best way of doing things, or accurate always. Their methods are in a very different form of combat than most. It's not really that complex.
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Taran
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Post by Taran on Apr 17, 2012 12:56:12 GMT
That would be why Wax-Hardening is preferred in the SCA. You really should read the whole post.
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jhart06
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Post by jhart06 on Apr 17, 2012 13:43:38 GMT
I did read the whole post. I don't see where me disagreeing makes that fact go away, nor will I debate you on it.
Really, if you're not going to be fighting in it, the hardening is debatable for smaller pieces and such. Since none of us are likely to face a sword blow to it, and even those like myself or SCA members aren't likely to face a blow like the kinds being repelled in history, this particular area is murky and not really with a 'best' option, so it can seem needlessly complex. Do you want it historically accurate, servicable for combat, or just to look nice? The answer to that will help steer you.
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Post by johnapsega on Apr 18, 2012 0:40:31 GMT
Was most leather armor really hardened or was there some that was just leather? I mean I don't imagine that there would be any resources to back this up, But it really does not make much sense to have unhardened armor because it would not offer much protection.
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jhart06
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Post by jhart06 on Apr 18, 2012 1:10:16 GMT
Most of it, to my knowledge, was boiled. It would be rare indeed to find anything un-hardened.
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Post by johnapsega on Apr 18, 2012 1:12:39 GMT
Thanks! I suspected as much. Thanks again jhart
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Post by Reaver on Apr 21, 2012 5:12:39 GMT
mainly for combat. I was looking at riveting parts of it together to make something similar to Roman segmented armor. or like what orlando bloom has on his shoulders here but over the torso at well.
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jhart06
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Post by jhart06 on Apr 21, 2012 14:48:53 GMT
Most spaulder or pauldron patterns are very similar to that. And pretty easy to do.
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Deleted
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Post by Deleted on Apr 21, 2012 20:33:38 GMT
Go to Armourarchive.org, there probably is no greater repository of armouring knowledge on line. Several forums to look through plus down loadable patterns for free,
If you do make carboli leather shrinks, you have to allow for that, and one does not 'boil' a large pot and a candy thermometer will be your friend in this. Keep the leather under water and the water at 180 degrees, when bubbles stop rising from the leather it is done. Shape and then let it dry and set up. The pieces i have done this way are solid and durable. If you like you can extend the life and improve the look of your Armour after it is 'boiled' and dry by adding a flexible varnish.
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Post by ineffableone on May 1, 2012 6:42:58 GMT
This video might be helpful
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