Aaron
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Post by Aaron on Apr 4, 2012 3:20:45 GMT
You aren't going to find cheap wooden arrows...at least, not any that will fly halfway decent. They used to be fairly inexpensive. I paid ~40 bucks for a dozen almost ten years ago that have held up well.
Yes, the fletchings are made from feathers. They aren't exorbitantly expensive. A quality set of carbon arrows can run just as much, really.
You can shoot carbon arrows out of a longbow. The spine weight is what is important. Spine weight is just a measure of the rigidity of the arrow shaft. A heavier weight arrow will be less flexible and will fly true from a heavier weight bow, lighter spines are more flexible and are suitable for bows with a lighter draw weight.
The measurement exists so you can get arrows that will fly correctly from your bow. With longbows you will just match the spine to your draw weight. Compounds are generally where it gets tricky, because they can impart much more force than their draw weight implies, so you have to use heavier spined arrows with them.
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Post by THE_SUPERWEIRDO on Apr 4, 2012 3:25:42 GMT
Huh, what I fear about feather fletched wooden arrows are that they're might be fragile... All I hope for is some reusable arrows that will survive for a long time for light use... Ruddersbow seems like my only choice, is there any other type of arrows? And as Rifleman said, what's the right spine weight for me? How can I tell? Is there a chart?
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Aaron
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Post by Aaron on Apr 4, 2012 15:20:48 GMT
Like I said, I've had a set of wood arrows (with feather fletchings) for almost ten years and the three that get used the hardest (my target arrows with field tips) have held up well. The fletchings aren't any more fragile than plastic vanes and PERSONALLY my feather fletchings have held up better than the plastic vanes on my carbon and aluminum arrows. Not to say definitively either way, this has just been how my personal experience turned out.
There are a multitude of places that sell wood arrows. I went with Rudderbows for a few reasons, one being that I was already ordering a bow and they consolidated shipping, the other being because I could not find a better deal for the options I wanted (trade points and self nocks). Especially with the set of a dozen on sale now, they are a good deal. If you're ordering wood arrows, order the spine weight the same as the bow you're getting. The only time you really need an arrow with a heavier spine than your draw weight is with compounds and some recurves, because they are designed to impart more force than the draw weight would imply. For a longbow, though, just stick with your bow weight. If you're getting a #30-35 draw weight, get #30-35 arrows, etc.
I still think carbon arrows may be a better choice for you since you don't seem terribly worried about historical accuracy (which is fine). They are generally much cheaper and, due to the man-made construction of the shafts, will be much straighter than a wood shaft since wood growth cannot be controlled in a similar manner.
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Post by Bulvoy on Apr 4, 2012 17:41:14 GMT
Just as Aaron said stick to the draw weight for your bow on the spine weight for your arrows. i bought a rudderbow 2 weeks ago, i didn't go with their arrows, My buddy refferred me to this site ( husband, wife team, they sell mostly on ebay) they are really alot better than i was expecting, no bends, although i read an easy tuditorial on how to straighten if needed. i have shot those 6 a total- time of like 5 hours all together target shooting, have no issues or complaints, i like the traditional look and for a test i did VS. plastic fletch, carbon arrow, they both shot like the same, i did have better accuracy /Consistency with the port cedar arrow, feather fletching, but thats not saying carbon are worse, i was originally going to but carbon arrows, they are a little cheaper, but i like the ones i got to match a traditional longbow. It's just a matter of personal taste. Aaron has had great outcome with arrows from rudder as mentioned , and i'll leave a link for you to check out i stand by these my buddy has had his from them for 3 years stands by the quality, but hey if you want carbon grab em, you'll be good either way. the link is what i had purchased 45-50 spine with Bodkin Tips to match my 45-50@ bow, little more money than carbon but i love them, when i buy my next 6 they will be trad/hunting points. You get to choose the spine weight & choose tips as well they will cut them to your draw length, which on advice from this forum add 1 " past your draw so im a 28" draw to corner of my mouth so i had them cut to 29"( measured from the nock to back of the tip) and add the points etc Gl for whatever you go with. Heres the link www.ebay.com/itm/180831031848?ss ... 1497.l2649 *** added note , it took like 8 days to get them because they hand make them on time of your order, unless you choose something they have " in stock" at time of purchase
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Aaron
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Post by Aaron on Apr 4, 2012 21:03:05 GMT
Funny, Bulvoy, I almost DID order those same arrows before I went with Rudderbows for my latest set. They definitely look good and they offer points more accurate for an ELB. Good to hear they are quality arrows.
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Post by Bulvoy on Apr 4, 2012 21:40:24 GMT
yeah man if you ever get a new set give them a shot from there, i don't own arrows made by rudder so i cannot comment on them, but i can tell you the ones with the link i posted are really top notch compared to the carbon ones i bought. also they make custom orders and quanties( with discounts for larger orders ie. dz & half etc) if you request it. My buddy is an Acquaintance theirs they do ebay on the off seasons in between ren fairs
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Post by THE_SUPERWEIRDO on Apr 5, 2012 1:08:35 GMT
I found these arrows (I followed the weight of the bow I'm thinking of {35lb} ): www.ebay.com/itm/6-New-PO-CEDAR- ... 571wt_1165 It would be nice to stay traditional, while having some durability. And what can I do to customize the length of the arrows? At the purchase?
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Post by Bulvoy on Apr 5, 2012 2:14:19 GMT
yes if you go with them add a note to seller ( it'll give you that option on the page) after you purchase them of what length you want them. typically 1" longer than your draw length. i'm a 28" draw so i stated in my mote i want them cut to 29" also in that note tell them what kind of tips you want on them. they will invoice you the additional $ amount on your pay-pal for the tips after you buy the arrows. so at some point in your pay-pal will have a seperate invoice for the $ amount of the tips after you buy the arrows pay and your done. Or i imagine you can send them a message after you click buy it now for them to send you a total invoice for the cost of the arrows & tips. If you get them you won't be sorry i'm please with them
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Post by THE_SUPERWEIRDO on Apr 5, 2012 2:54:32 GMT
I want to spent the customization at the least at it can be. What is usually the cost of customization? And what are the prices of the different tips?
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Aaron
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Post by Aaron on Apr 5, 2012 3:02:12 GMT
Those arrows might be a little heavy. A #35 bow will be measured as #30-35, because sometimes, once tillered, the bow comes in just a couple pounds shy of the target weight. Wood arrows (since the growth cannot be controlled) are hard to spine closer than in #5 groups. So in those #35-40, some will be closer to #40 and may not fly very well out of your bow. I believe, for right handed shooters, heavy arrows will shoot to the left. But they are close enough to your draw weight that they will probably shoot fine. I'd say go for it and see. Edit: It tells you the price of the tips in the auction.
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Post by THE_SUPERWEIRDO on Apr 11, 2012 1:53:11 GMT
I just don't know if the arrows I have chosen has the option to have it at a certain spinal weight, since I like following rules, I would go with some #30-35 arrows... Anybody that bought from them know if you can do that?
And just to get it off of my head, does archery really have any techniques? Different style of... firing? :mrgreen: I just don't know...
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Aaron
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Post by Aaron on Apr 11, 2012 2:08:37 GMT
There are plenty of different styles for drawing/releasing the arrow. I prefer the normal split three finger. Some do three under, some reverse their wrist, etc. Some people also shoot with the cock feather in instead of out, which (for them) helps reduce wear on the fletchings. I tried it yesterday and I didn't notice any adverse effects on the flight so it seems good.
As for the arrows, just send them an email and ask.
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Post by ineffableone on Apr 11, 2012 8:34:27 GMT
From the ebay link you gave
So a few things to note, they do not come with points, unless you tell them to add them and then they cost more, you also at that point need to tell them what size to cut the arrows. Also important note, the link you provided is spined at 35-40#. Also note, these are left wing arrows. This means when in flight it will spin or torque the arrow counter clockwise.
From stickbow.com
The only place the right or left will make a difference is in broadhead selections, if it is for example like the Zwicky No Mercy broad head with single bevel edge.
Basically single bevel broadheads add to the arrow rotation in flight so you want a single bevel that compliments the arrow fletchng. Of course most broadheads are double bevel, so it is only an issue if you get broadheads with single. I just felt it good to mention.
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Post by ineffableone on Apr 11, 2012 8:49:57 GMT
Split finger, one above two bellow is the standard due to it being the one taught usually to beginners. Many of the older archers use 3 fingers under. Yep that reverse upside down wrist one boggled my mind the first time I saw it.
There is also Mongolian style thumb ring release, where they use a thumb to hold the string rather then the fingers. Which is the popular way to shoot for Asian and many Middle eastern archery. Also there is a style that actually grabs the arrow by the nock between two knuckles, though not a popular style.
Also there is above or bellow the nock shooting. Meaning the small metal band on the string and the nock on the arrow goes either above or bellow this metal band, some prefer above most tend to shoot below, and some people add a second and nock between them.
So are you all confused yet? LOL :lol: I know it all seems rather complicated, but you do get a better hang of it as you gewt more time and experience.
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Post by Deleted on Apr 11, 2012 10:15:37 GMT
There are also variations of where you anchor the string, some people pull the string/arrow nock to the corner of their mouth, others will pull it back further and anchor at a pont along their jaw.
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Post by chrisperoni on Apr 11, 2012 13:15:28 GMT
some links on arrow selection: www.eastonarchery.com/selection-chartswww.eastonarchery.com/uploads/fi ... -chart.pdf on the pdf look at the picture of arrow length- notice the front and back of the bow- people get this backwards- the front is the side you look at when holding the bow- the back is facing your target. Also notice the 1" measurement is made from the farthest point of contact your arrow makes with the rest- for example on a crowned rest (curved horizontally) the arrow touches somewhere in the middle of it. There is a good deal of variety in this simplified method of determining length and personal preference is usually the deciding factor. I for one like a shorter arrow as I already draw 29"/30", and since I only shoot target I don't need to worry about a broadhead clearing my riser. I found a similar pic to show what's described above, in case you can't view the pdf link: ref- www.martinarchery.com/easton/targeast.htmlAnother good link explaining the why of length- speed vs. safety, length for different uses/rests, spine & proper flex of an arrow etc. www.huntersfriend.com/carbon_arr ... pter_2.htm One thing you'll keep hearing is if you cut your hand on a broadhead... your arrow is too short -lol (little late by then)
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Post by chrisperoni on Apr 11, 2012 14:00:02 GMT
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Post by Rifleman Lizard on Apr 11, 2012 18:10:50 GMT
There are just as many techniques for shooting arrows as there are for using swords. Shooting with proper form is a complicated skill, but it is still a skill built on basic principles. Correct technique involves not just your upper limbs but also your feet, legs, back, shoulders, neck, so on and so forth. Have you looked for a beginners class at a nearby club? They're inexpensive and an instructor can help show you the ropes. New students arrive at our venue every couple of weeks and I find it's much easier to teach someone who has not picked up a bow before, than it is to teach form to someone who gave it a go and is only self taught. Proper observation and correction where it is needed makes the difference between success or constant frustration, not to mention the obvious safety hazards. One session you may focus on your drawing hand, but neglect your extended arm. You may use the wrong muscles to draw your bow, instead of your shoulders. Common issues that regularly come up are archers tightly gripping their bow and not letting it rest correctly in the palm, taking up different forward wrist positions after each shot, as well simple things such as overdrawing and changing anchor points. Personally I use the most common draw method; one above and two below.This kind of draw works best with an under chin anchor point, so long as you're using an aiming marker or bow sight. If you're shooting bare-bow then I find the best draw to use is three tight fingers under, anchoring to the corner of your mouth. This allows you to look down a straighter arrow over short-medium distances and significantly tightens your grouping. Of course if you've tuned in a sight then looking down the arrow itself is not a requirement. If the archery sub forum gets the go-ahead I plan on writing up a basic introduction to recurve bows as well as bow reviews themselves. I know other people are planning things too. Archers, ready! Pic above :shock: Phwoar
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Aaron
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Post by Aaron on Apr 11, 2012 20:01:23 GMT
I tried three finger under during my last practice session on Monday (2.5 hours, my fingertips are still numb lol), and I just didn't feel the same level of control over my arrow as I do with split finger. Ineff, it's really got nothing to do with beginners, many top-level longbow and trick shooters use split finger over three under.
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Post by chrisperoni on Apr 11, 2012 21:08:45 GMT
Seriously! She might be shooting with a compound but she gives me a longbow!
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