George
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Post by George on Mar 27, 2012 3:26:29 GMT
Any hints or tips? Milk jugs and that soft white plastic are not a problem for me... But when i get towards juice containers and even coke bottles it seems the plastic is too brittle and the bottom end always falls off the post. I can cut through them no problem but cant get perfect silent cuts...
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Deleted
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Post by Deleted on Mar 27, 2012 4:34:20 GMT
Use earplugs??? :lol: I know what 'silent cuts' are, just joking!!!
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Post by Lonely Wolf Forge on Mar 27, 2012 5:58:41 GMT
i cant even cut them, so no help from me, anything other than soft bottles either explode or rip, even when my edge allignment is good. it seems like bottles are getting extremely thin and brittle nowadays, it takes almost no effort to make one explode.
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George
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Post by George on Mar 27, 2012 6:32:05 GMT
Maybe im doing something wrong lol ive never had an explosion hahaha Well as long as its not only me
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Post by Lonely Wolf Forge on Mar 27, 2012 6:37:58 GMT
not necessarily an "explosion" but where you look at the bottle and tell it didnt cut, it just bursted under pressure because the plastic was so brittle.
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Razor
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Post by Razor on Mar 27, 2012 7:28:05 GMT
It could be your form, your edge allignment could be off. And/or your blade isn't sharp enough to cut 2 litter bottles. If your 2 litter bottle is ripping or exploding when you cut, then it is more than likely the sharpness of the blade. But if you can cut through them....then it is you and you need to practice more.
Silent cuts are cool, but they are not that important. just as long as the bottom of the bottle is falling straight down from the stand and not flying away from it, your doing good.
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George
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Post by George on Mar 27, 2012 7:51:17 GMT
I thought it may be me... They just 'fall off' the side of the stand. Im thinking it must be my form... More practice
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Post by Stromlo_Swords_USA on Mar 27, 2012 8:13:41 GMT
If it helps, I think the plastic is slightly different here in Aus. I seemed to cut better (easier) in the USA on 2 and 3lt bottles, than the 1.25l or 1.5L or even 2L I tend to slice here (and I dont practise as often, maybe thats it),,,
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Post by Lonely Wolf Forge on Mar 27, 2012 14:30:04 GMT
i wasnt refering to 2 liters, i was talking about like the standard 16 oz water bottles. 2 liters i dont have that problem with, theyre built Ford Tough
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Deleted
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Post by Deleted on Mar 27, 2012 15:08:27 GMT
You got some good answers already. Mine may or may not add anything new or helpful. About the best thing I'm reading is "it's not that important" and "keep practicing" Anyway, a thing or three to consider. A few factors that may help you achieve the standing bottom half. Besides a sharp enough blade and good edge alignment. Peel the label off. Make sure the bottle all the way full. You're cutting a column of water in a thin skin. With a full bottle that column will offer slightly less resistance to displacement. The red line is the 45 degree angle you want. The green lines and between are higher aiming points to allow more mass of water to keep the bottom half static and remain standing. Add some speed to your cut and remember it is NOT axe chopping firewood but a drawing slice, albeit not overly exaggerated. Cut with the monouchi area. And remember to visualize and think that you're cutting THROUGH the bottle not cutting the bottle. Your follow through and stopping point of the cut is the goal NOT the bottle of water. Cut past the bottle or visualize an invisible bottle somewhere past the physical one. Or blah, blah, blah...I could just say keep cutting...you'll get it one day... or even better - DUCT TAPE that sucker down like I do! :lol:
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Post by Lonely Wolf Forge on Mar 27, 2012 15:15:16 GMT
great advice Price, my sensei always said, when you hit someone your not aiming for him, your aiming for the guy behind him, you just have to punch through him cuz hes in the way
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George
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Post by George on Mar 27, 2012 20:27:15 GMT
Wow thanks for that info I always hit the bottle about the top green line, i am high as im always worried about chopping my stand up (worried about the blade not the stand lol) I DONT peel the lables off, maybe thats something i should do, bit of a derrrr moment the haha. Hows my form here? This is a vid of me with bamboo, my form is the same for bottles...
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George
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Post by George on Mar 27, 2012 21:13:36 GMT
How sharp does it have to be to get that? Its not razor and has trouble cutting paper. Thanks for the advice
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Post by johnwalter on Mar 28, 2012 2:06:35 GMT
Practicing good shi-bo-ri,wringing the tsuka,will help.
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Greg
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Post by Greg on Mar 28, 2012 2:28:37 GMT
Another thing to consider is that your blade geometry might be to thick. There is one sword that it doesn't matter how my alignment and form are, the two pieces always get pushed just a little to the side because the blade is so thick.
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Post by Lonely Wolf Forge on Mar 28, 2012 3:10:16 GMT
ive notcied the same thing greg, none of my euros will cut clean like my cheapo ebay katanas will. even when i do my part
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George
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Post by George on Mar 28, 2012 7:30:32 GMT
I did notice my Musashi bamboo was much more successful than my Ronin... well im out of bottles atm anyway haha. The Niku on the Ronin isnt that bad, neither is the geometry. So im not blaming the tool, im blaming the user Little mechanic saying we throw round the workshop 'Good mechanic never blames his tools'
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Post by ouroborus9nine on Apr 9, 2012 6:52:08 GMT
A couple things I have personally found: a. Props to you for your taste in music. B. For silent cuts I find I need to take a giant step down in power. If I use the force and speed I use for empties the agitation of the water in the bottom half shuffles it off my stand. I first found this when I watched a shooter mike video of him trying the silent cuts in a row contest...he got into a rythm when he started using much shorter less powerful strokes. Or I am totally wrong and crazy which is more than perfectly possible.
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SeanF
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Post by SeanF on Apr 9, 2012 8:48:11 GMT
It isn't that less power per say helps you get a cleaner cut, but that when you start to use less power you have more control.
Blade speed and edge alignment are what makes the cut, once you get your blade up to speed putting more power behind it doesn't add a whole lot for you.
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Post by lamebmx on Apr 11, 2012 15:08:12 GMT
I am pretty comfy with edge alignment. Wont say its the greatest. I have noticed one thing with the cheap-o water bottles, sometimes, everything is right and the bottle just explodes. Normally the cap breaking is the culprit.
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