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Post by hongkongtaipan on Feb 25, 2012 0:32:41 GMT
I just acquired a Tinker Norman sword. I am wondering if any of you who have this sword or similar Hanwei Tinker swords can give me suggestions regarding several things.
I got it on sale for $159 and thought I got a steal since the price on Kult of Athena has gone up to $233. However, I am wondering if it is a first-generation Tinker Norman sword left over from a couple years ago because it is not very sharp. I am used to Huawei katanas that will slice paper easily. This will not slice paper at all. I understand that earlier models of this sword were not as sharp as more recent ones. Also, the level of polish is really rough. My only other western sword is a Windlass Oakeshott Type XVIII sword and it came much sharper and with a smoother satin finish. Any suggestions how to sharpen the Norman and then smooth out the finish? I did buy a couple of gray Scotch-Brite pads and I have used automotive sandpaper in the past. I also have a fine diamond hone.
As for the scabbard and grip, should I use a leather conditioner like Picard leather dressing, or would that mess up the leather? The Windlass sword had a different leather on the grip and scabbard and I used that product successfully on it.
I would appreciate any suggestions form some of you medieval sword experts.
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Post by WEWolf on Feb 25, 2012 0:47:21 GMT
I'm afraid I can't help you too much with your other questions, but regarding how to sharpen, have a peek at this, forum.sword-buyers-guide.com/viewtopic.php?f=18&t=84Tom K. is the man when it comes to sharpening, I bought the belt sander he recommended and sharpened a sword from cutting like a butter knife to the point it shaved hair.
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Greg
Senior Forumite
Posts: 1,800
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Post by Greg on Feb 25, 2012 4:45:13 GMT
I can only comment on western swords in general, but I do not have the particular sword you are asking about. Since the construction is peened, you have a slightly harder time with the maintainance then if it were threaded. If you had a threaded tang, you could easily break it all down and oil the whole blade and put it back together. But since yours is permanant, you'll just have to use a Q-tip to get oil in the area where the guard meets the blade. Don't bother trying to oil under the guard tho, it's not an issue. As for sharpening and polish. The sword is made of metal just like the katanas you are used to. Most concepts that were true with the katana, will be true with a western blade. Tom's guide is great, and thanks to him, most all of my western blades are at least paper cutting sharp. To smooth out the finish is just a matter of effort. Scotch brite pads are great for a nice, uniform satin finish. Work with the ones you bought on a scrap piece of metal. But if you want more then that, you'll probably have to jump in with a 600 grit wet/dry sandpaper. (Assuming I remember the finish the gray pads give) Then just work it like Tom does in his vids. The leather... Well, I just looked at the pecard site, and from what I gather, none of there products will harm the leather. Although, if you use the sword, you shouldn't really need to condition the handle, as the oils from your hands will do that. The scabbard shouldn't need it unless it shows obvious signs of drying out. (In that case, it WOULD be an older model) But Hanwei is odd about their western blades. Some come good, some come bad and it's hard to tell which is from where, unless you make it your hobby to know these things, and I do not. I hope that's helped a little.
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