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Post by gerbopyl on Jan 18, 2012 9:01:06 GMT
I recently inherited 2 guns from my grandpa. He was in the military for 40+ years starting back in WWII in the army air corps and finally retiring from the air national guard. When he retired he was presented a luger which I have yet to identify and a 1911 which was inscribed with his names dates of service and countries he had tours in. He told me that he fired it once after he got it dont remember the whole reason or story behind why just once. He oiled and greased it and kept it in storage for 20 years. It still seems to be in great shape visually but I wanted to take it apart clean it and inspect for any interior damage.
I do have some experience cleaning pistols buts its been at least 10 years since I've cleaned one. I doubt much has changed since then but I'm not really sure what would be the best solvent or oil to use. I saw the thread about everyones 1911's (droolworty by the way) but I didnt want to highjack it. So what would you fine gentleman (and possibly ladies) recommend that I use?
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Post by GUEST on Jan 18, 2012 9:12:23 GMT
I've used alot of cleaning products over the years, always return to good old Hoppe's No 9. As far has a general purpose oil Rem Oil.
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Post by gerbopyl on Jan 18, 2012 9:13:47 GMT
That was fast! Hoping to get it cleaned this morning after work then take it to the range have their gunsmith look it over for me and fire off a few rounds with it.
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Post by Larry Jordan on Jan 19, 2012 22:45:44 GMT
When disassembling, do it in an uncluttered area where it will be easy to locate flying springs, dropped screws and bushings, etc.... I would buy a decent cleaning kit with appropriately sized jags. Use correctly sized cotton flannel patches (You can buy or make your own.) Be careful not to damage the lands/grooves at the muzzle of the pistol barrels--clean from the breech. It won't seriously impact accuracy at HG ranges, but it may damage the collectability of the pieces, if you bugger up the bore/mouth. Some cleaning rods have plastic slotted tips and accessories, which will avoid such damage. Hoppe's No. 9 is OK. Wear gloves and clean in a vented area. You might also consider some non-toxic cleaners, if this is a concern to you. M-Pro 7 comes to mind. There may be others. Are there wood or plastic panels covering the grip? Some solvents can discolor the wood. (This might be a concern, depending upon whether its already discolored by the oil/grease used to preserve it). You might want to remove the panels before cleaning. Do you plan to shoot them, or preserve them?
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Post by Deleted on Jan 20, 2012 0:44:09 GMT
get a bore snake cleaning kit makes cleaning quick and easy
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Post by Lonely Wolf Forge on Jan 20, 2012 1:57:59 GMT
i like "shooters choice" gun scrubber, and HOPPES gun oil. Shooters choice really cleans the gunk out that other stuff leaves behind
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Post by steelhound on Jan 20, 2012 2:34:54 GMT
Yes, the bore snakes are awesome for cleaning the inside of the barrel. I have one for every caliber of gun that I own, and find that running it through the barrel directly after shooting really helps to keep it clean.
As far as solvents and oils, I'm a fan of CLP Break Free solvent and Hoppes oil. You can also buy short plastic cleaning rods for really scrubbing the inside of the barrel, and I prefer the plastic since it's easier on the barrel than aluminum rods. I get a plastic brush head and a brass bristle brush head, and also use q-tips and pipe cleaners to clean the whole gun. A good polyester or cotton rag should round out a cleaning kit as well.
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Post by gerbopyl on Jan 20, 2012 6:04:08 GMT
I bought a kit for it but havent had the time to work on it. It does have wood panels and I was going to ask about cleaning them with the solvent as i only have experience with plastic ones. Im sure it will say on the bottle. I got it all disassembled earlier. For a 20 year old pistol that has been kept in storage its in excellent shape. I do indeed plan on shooting it. It is engraved with my grandpa's name, rank, and dates of service so im guessing that drops its collectibility(is that a word?). Im not planning on selling it anyways.
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Post by sam salvati on Jan 20, 2012 17:58:39 GMT
Simple green is amazing stuff, non toxic, smells better then no9 and does a better job IMHO.
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Post by MrAcheson on Jan 20, 2012 20:31:52 GMT
I'm with Steelhound. CLP works fine as a general cleaner and lubricant, but I generally use a thicker grease like Militec in contact areas like locking lugs or slide rails. I left cleaning rods behind for boresnakes a while back and haven't looked back. Patches and cotton swabs work for the rest of the gun.
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Post by Odingaard on Jan 20, 2012 23:15:43 GMT
I use CLP for general cleaning then I use a very light amount of Super Lube on any metal part / area that shows wear. Here is the Super Lube I am using if any are interested in it: www.amazon.com/Super-Lube-Oils-P-T-F-Cap/dp/B000BXOGHY/ref=sr_1_cc_1?s=aps&ie=UTF8&qid=1327101066&sr=1-1-catcorrBeen using the stuff for years, including in the desert (because the stuff dries nicely). Works wonderfully and stays around alot longer than CLP on parts without getting sticky or gummed up. Friction causes it to regain viscosity, but in a cool gun, it just dries to a nice, invisible microthin coating. It also removes easily with CLP or Rem Oil in case you want to clean it off and add another coat of it.
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Post by gerbopyl on Jan 24, 2012 7:55:01 GMT
I must be some sort of psychic because I ordered one separate of the cleaning kit to see how well it would work.
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