George
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Post by George on Jan 10, 2012 9:16:00 GMT
So obviously i cut alot of bottles. The blade scratches up the mirror finish. Now i want to remove ALL of the scratches and get it back to mirror. This will be more a display sword now...
Ive tryed Mothers Mag and its just not enough. So i got some 1200 grit sandpaper. That removed the cut scratches but has left other even smaller scratches, that mothers mag isnt quiet powerful enough to remove (and ive given it a fair few polishes) Its good and removes some, but there are a few that are a little bit stubborn still. You can only see it when held right in the light. Is there something after the sandpaper i could use but before the mothers to get rid of the harsher scratches so the mothers can do its thing?
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Post by wolf_shade on Jan 10, 2012 14:51:59 GMT
Going off what I've seen others say, if you take it to a step higher sandpaper (1500) and then further up (2000) then mothers mag the progression of scratch depth and size should be such that they are all removed.
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Post by Bulvoy on Jan 10, 2012 18:02:29 GMT
I myself prefer Battle scars, satin finish, but once you start a section you have to go all the way or you end up with a blade that just doesnt look right, I have a mirror polish on two different swords only, It's all about progression, if you do not use expensive "wet stones", then start with X grit sandpaper in alternating directions, keep going to higher & higher grit. i have went from 500 grit all the way to 5000 grit, which at my local auto parts store sells up to 3000 grit where i live in the US. As long as you don't apply hard pressure in the begining with X grit, you'll be surprised about the results of 3000 grit , it'll mirror it up like theres no tomorrow. the 5000 grit i ordered off ebay as an experiment ( its not expensive) and it works extremely well if your going for that look in the mirror type finish. my standard useage was a variant of Tom K's tuditorial, from the ground up went like this : ( Alternating directions with each grit ) 500 grit- 800 grit- 1000 grit- 1500 grit- 2000 grit 2500 grit 3000 grit- long stokes down the blade mother's polish, For just cutting scratches try starting out with higher 3000 or 2000 grit see if that takes it out first before you go to the lower ones, i usually use 3000 grit by it self to touch up a blade after cutting long light strokes * In the SAME direction( 5" at a time over- laping when sections until length of blade is done), then some mother's when all done. works for me pretty well since most of the time who wants to spend hrs polishing after each cut session. there are other's here that have much more experience at this with similar and different methods, this is just what worked well for me. Hope this was helpful. here is a pic of one of my Longsword's that ive done this to almost a dozen different times : * the dark reflection is me at an angle Attachments:
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Post by lamebmx on Jan 10, 2012 18:18:45 GMT
I would suggest starting from the 1200 in the previous posters thread. Go the length of the blade. Go through the trite just like he said. Make sure all the previous scratches are gone. That is why you go with the blade on one, and against the blafe on the next. The old scratches will stand out. They will be even easier to see if you watch how light reflects off the blade. That will make old scratches stand out. After 3000 grit polish should make it pop. If you want a deeper shine you can go through buffing compounds. But it wont really matter with a good base, you will still have a mirror at 3000 grit. Make sure the polish compound is not abrasive, or if it is abrasive, its less abrasive than 3000 grit sandpaper.
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George
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Post by George on Jan 10, 2012 21:41:21 GMT
Ok thanks guys very helpful So ive run the 1200 grit along the blade from where the habaki sits (even tho ive got it removed) straight up to Kissaki. So now when i use 2000, which direction do i have to take? Or can i follow the same as the 1200 grit cause its such a fine paper and the scratches are so very hard to see already?
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Mikeeman
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Post by Mikeeman on Jan 10, 2012 22:18:08 GMT
At this point, it really wouldn't matter that much. 2000 grit is so high that you will likely not be able to see the scratches that it will leave. So you should be able to see the 1200 scratches just fine and know when they are gone.
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Post by lamebmx on Jan 10, 2012 23:37:53 GMT
yea its tough to see scratches at this point. lighting the blade will help a lot. i prefer to keep alternating my patterns (i personally go / | \ - with - being blade direction, counting backwards from my final polish.) but I also have really good eyes and view polishing as a personal exercise in patience. Plus at starting at 1200 any scratches left from the 1200 in the 1500 stage will nearly need a magnifying glass to see in end. It will get taken down a little bit each stage. and its possible to completely remove it a couple stages away, though it requires a boatload more effort than just making sure it was gone on the next stage. with the right lighting it is possible to see scratches from 3000 on a 2500 base, but you cannot see them by just looking at the blade, you really have to hunt them down for that perfect angle where the light from the old scratch gleams. I hope that makes more sense than it sounds lol.
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George
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Post by George on Jan 12, 2012 3:32:56 GMT
Would i be able to just from 1200 straight to 2000? Or is that too big?
Ive been searching for 2000 EVERYWHERE! Seems here in the merry old land of Aus 1200 is about as far as the go in stock. Any higher is special order so im gonna have to order from ebay. Should i maybe get 1500 AND 2000?
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Mikeeman
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Post by Mikeeman on Jan 12, 2012 4:47:59 GMT
Auto parts stores usually have it. I have seen up to 2500 in my local Napa. But that is here in the US. Don't know elsewhere. You CAN jump from 1200 to 2000. It will just take a little longer to get all of the 1200 grit scratches out as opposed to going to 1500 then 2000.
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George
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Post by George on Jan 12, 2012 9:35:50 GMT
Went Ebay, got both 1500 and 2000. So thanks for the advice! Ill let you know how it all goes... Yeh around here all the Auto shops and hardware stores only stock up to 1200, silly i know... Most only had 1000. They could order it but i figure ebay from china is quicker than them ordering it for me...
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Post by lamebmx on Jan 12, 2012 11:13:59 GMT
You might ask at an automotive body repair shop. The more steps, the easier and more consistent it is. 3M makes nifty assorted packs of wet-dry, but where to buy for you would be an issue. If you continue the search, ask them about 1800 2500 and 3000. I cant say for sure, but 2000 may leave you with a bit more satin of a finish than you are looking to achieve. Please note, I have not stopped at 2000 and used a polishing compound. As mentioned by mikeeman, 2500 is common out here, and comes in the packs I purchase.
Oh, make sure to use it wet. the water removal of the swarf really helps the sandpaper last longer. wrap it on your sanding block and keep a puddle on top where you are working the blade, you will see it get dark, that help with material removal. When it starts looking like it could thicken up, splash a little water to dilute it again.
And another thing, with the wet method, pick up lots of baking soda. 1/4 cup in normal sized bowl filled with water. adjust to the amount of water you are using. otherwise it will rust and rust fast. i mean stop shake the arms a few times to limber them back up and you will see surface specks of rust.
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George
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Post by George on Jan 12, 2012 11:19:09 GMT
Its gonna look really dumb seeing as im an Auto Mechanic by trade. But only one body shop around here, i may ring them...
So i was gonna go 2000 then a really good/several mothers polishes... That will work just as well wont it?
I have been using water, but only sanding by hand without a block. Now ive done the whole blade a block might make it more even i think. And holy hell yes! I saw rust in about 2 seconds! Baking soda hey? Ill give it a go! Cheers!
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Post by lamebmx on Jan 12, 2012 17:27:12 GMT
I dont think several applications of mothers will change much. I think mothers is more of a chemical polish, basically cleans it real good. I don't think it will look dumb, your asking a place about something they use. Mechanic's rarely need fine sanding equipment. sounds like it needs another go to remove the rust anyways. post up some pics when your done!
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Post by 14thforsaken on Jan 12, 2012 22:16:05 GMT
I've seen up to 6000 grit paper in some hobby stores. They are used for very fine detailing work on models like removing flash, blending seams, et cetera. One of the hobby stores by me sells packs with grits running from 500 up to 6000. The papers are small so you'd have to get 2 or 3 sets and they're not the cheapest, but its the easiest way I've found to get the super high grit papers.
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