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Post by zentesukenVII on Nov 1, 2011 17:45:40 GMT
Well I got a hanwei practical tanto from Kultofathena. It came literally the day after I ordered it, which was awesome. The blade was not so crazy sharp though. I tried using a bit of sandpaper on the edge, didn't work, then a wet stone. Still nothing. So I decided to do a foundation polish starting at 220 grit. I was sad because I love the enhanced hamon but it is polish practice and would make my blade sharper. I did a fair job, still need to work it up to 2000 grit, the highest I have is 1500. I was holing the blade in my right hand, using my left hand to polish with the paper held between my middle, index and thumb. The edge was facing away from me but my ring finger on my left hand got stabbed all the way through the skin at the kissaki. I was paying more attention to detail than my finger. Bad idea. Now if got an entry wound, and an exit wound. Pretty brutal, I ran it under hot water, alcohol and all that and continued working.
The blade is sharper, still not razor sharp which really pisses me off, I have a cut on my finger and I love the enhanced hamon. So my question is this.
Can anyone tell me exactly how I can reproduce the enhanced hamon that hanwei makes on their swords? in some detail can someone explain it to me?
Thanks guys!
~Zen~
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Post by Mr.Wallace on Nov 1, 2011 18:51:38 GMT
Sorry about your finger,but congrats on the new Tanto. Iknow there is an acid enhancing Tutorial some where in my link collection, I'll track it down after work. Edit: Found this at thetop of the pile, can't rewatch at the moment because I have to run. Good start hopefully
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Post by William Swiger on Nov 1, 2011 19:55:47 GMT
One of our members has this posted but not sure if it will bring it all the way back to original:
Put about 2/3 of a cup (depends on blade size, can be adjusted) of vinegar in a small bowl or pot with a couple of drops of regular dish soap mixed in (helps even coating) I heat this on the stove (or in microwave in plastic bowl) until just before boiling.
If possible, you can also heat the blade either in the oven or with quick passes of a mini butane torch until the metal is very warm to hot (not red hot or you might ruin the temper). This kind of "opens the pores" in the steel. (others have used hot water for this). Once the acid is ready I then use a clean rag or paper towels (or cotton balls on a stick) and repeatedly soak the blade with the solution.
You can do this one side of the blade at a time but be sure to mask the side your not etching to prevent stains or rust. I prefer to hold the blade vertically with the tip resting in the bowl (on something soft to not chip or dull it) and soak both sides at once. soak the rag and start at the mune machi and work your way down towards the tip loosely pinching the sides, you don't have to "rub" it in.
Keep an eye on the steel and notice when it starts to turn a light to medium gray, this means it is fully saturated and it's time to stop. also, do not let the acid sit or pool in one area too long because it can cause rusting almost immediately (if this happens, just polish it out before continuing)
I then spray down the blade with windex or glass plus to neutralize the affects of the acid (key ingredient is ammonia). clean both sides of the blade with same cleaner you used to prep, rinse and repeat the process.
I find I get the best results by doing about 5-8 of these short baths as opposed to fewer times in longer baths. it seems to bring out more of the smaller details.
Once your finished you could use mothers polish and clean towels for a final light polish. too much paste or vigorous cleaning can clean off the etch so take it slow at first. you can be more aggressive on the non hamon areas like the ji, mune or bo hi.
This method can be altered as you see fit and is pretty fail safe as long as you have things set up well. you can always polish out the blade and start over again if you do not get satisfactory results. the amount of activity you can bring out also has a lot to do with the hamon itself, KC's 5160 blades have such beautiful hamon with tons of activity and depth while some of my other blades from different forges are much simpler and less impressive.
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Post by zentesukenVII on Nov 1, 2011 20:24:41 GMT
This process worked great, I didn't heat the solution as much as that, just about ten seconds in the microwave. I still plan on re-polishing the blade one more time in the future so I'll make it a bit hotter that time. You guys rock, thanks for the help. I was so sad my pretty hamon wasn't showing anymore.
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