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Post by The BB of C on Oct 24, 2011 15:24:31 GMT
Hello,
I've seen a number of Accusharp threads around here. I was considering getting one for my swords but you've all convinced me against it. However, I'm not sure I trust myself with a sharpening stone. Something tells me I'd mess up something due to my lack of formal training in sword maintenance. I feel like having something I could simply drag across the blade a few times would be best for me. I've noticed there are a lot of products like that advertised as 'sword and knife sharpeners'. Does anyone here have any suggestions for me?
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Post by MOK on Oct 24, 2011 16:27:44 GMT
I only use stones when I need to actually change the blade's shape, like removing large dents or putting an edge on a blunt blade. For everyday sharpening and polishing at home, I like several grades of abrasive paper (I'm currently using 400, 800 and 1200 grit) and a good sanding block (personally, I like cork - a good piece is hard enough to maintain its shape, yet has just enough give to work well on convex bevels). Depending on the size of the blade, I either clamp it to a table and move the block over it, or fix the block to a table and move the sword over it (with cut-resistant work gloves so I can apply pressure without losing fingers). If you can strip the blade bare, that helps too. For on the go, I use a series of EZE-LAP sharpeners, diamond hones that come in a series of grades from "coarse" to "superfine"; they're extremely portable, and can do everything my stones and papers can do, although you'll need to be more mindful of your fingers since there's no sanding block between them and the blade. A few passes with the fine and superfine are usually enough for general maintenance, taking care of the minor scratches and scuffs that accumulate in normal use, and starting with coarse you can take care of pretty much any non-critical nicks and dents, too. I've even used these to reshape a kissaki before. I still prefer the sanding block because it's more ergonomic to use, but these are far easier to carry with you. Protips: use enough oil to not let whatever tool you're using get dry, make sure there's enough light so you can actually see the scratch pattern you're leaving on the blade, and always move the tool away from the edge. PS. Oh, and here's TomK's excellent advice on how it's done. It's really not rocket science - all you need is about ten bucks worth of tools and an afternoon of practice.
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Post by Odingaard on Dec 4, 2011 0:47:56 GMT
Keep the Accusharp away from your swords if you really care about them. It can put a rudimentary edge on a blade for you, but it's pretty rough. Also, it does not sharpen to a good, even angle. I think it is best left for garden tools, machetes, etc... Learn how to do it with files and stones. It's a skill worth picking up.
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Post by Lonely Wolf Forge on Dec 4, 2011 1:32:15 GMT
i woudlnt use accusharp on a machete...
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Mikeeman
Member
Small Business Operator
Posts: 2,904
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Post by Mikeeman on Dec 4, 2011 3:08:12 GMT
Use machete on Accusharp.... :lol:
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Post by Lonely Wolf Forge on Dec 4, 2011 3:18:25 GMT
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Post by Anders on Dec 14, 2011 13:13:53 GMT
Personally, I've found that sharpening with a stone is less difficult then I expected, and I doubt the risk of "messing up" a blade is larger then an acusharp doing so. If you're worried, find a blade you don't care much about and use it for practice, but this is something you'll only pick up via experience. I doubt there is much "formal training" to be had.
Basically, acusharps do a very rough job. I'd only use one to put a straight starting edge on an unsharpened blade, then finish it up with the power file and sharpening stone.
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Post by The BB of C on Dec 14, 2011 16:56:23 GMT
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Post by MOK on Dec 14, 2011 17:50:55 GMT
Those are all just different varieties of "accusharp". The ones with abrasive ceramic rods are somewhat gentler than the ones with metal blades that shave your blade into shape, but they're still essentially the same thing.
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Post by The BB of C on Dec 15, 2011 2:36:28 GMT
Ah I see. Oh well. I've asked my family for wood blocks and sand paper for Christmas this year. Hopefully it will work out.
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Post by MOK on Dec 16, 2011 22:03:00 GMT
Mind you, accusharps do work, in that they'll produce a sharp edge with little effort. The thing is, you should really only use them on a blade you consider disposable (e.g. cheap work knives or machetes), as they only produce a very specific kind of edge (prominent secondary bevels with a predefined edge angle) and repeated use will eat up the blade relatively quickly. And don't worry - one big advantage to sand paper is that using it requires just enough time and effort that you really can't inflict any major damage by accident.
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Post by ChrisRiley93 on Dec 17, 2011 1:58:07 GMT
Accusharps are great for starting an edge on a blunt sword. (I.E Windlass or DSA). You can sharpen the sword with the accusharp until it cuts paper than use a stone and/or file to finish the edge up. If done right, you can create an appleseed edge. And, I wouldn't use an accusharp on a machete either. Probably because the machetes I buy aren't disposable $6 walmart specials.
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