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Post by zentesukenVII on Aug 21, 2011 20:02:32 GMT
Well, maybe not fubar, but its got 3 or four little chips that are about a mm thick each. Also the very tip of the kissaki (about 2mm worth of steel, maybe less) I know I will probably have to take a metal file to it and so some shaping, but after I do that what should I use to make it not look like crap? This will be the most blade repair I've done on any sword yet, and I want to make it worth my effort. Its a musashi shirasaya, so I'm not worried about it too much, but its good practice. Should I start from the tip and file downwards toward the yokote line? For the terminology haters ill type some extra words to explain what it is. Yokote line: Like dividing the kissaki and the rest of the blade. It is not geometric on this sword. I would like to redo the cross polish after I do the main repair as well, I dont know how to do this, nor do I know what grit paper ill need and so on.
Some advice would be helpful, ill post some pics when my camera recharges.
I imagine my kissaki will be a bit more curved towards the mune (back/spine) of the blade after the steel is removed.
Ps I like terminology, this is why. ^
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Post by Elheru Aran on Aug 21, 2011 21:08:30 GMT
I have the same sword. That ain't no kissaki to start with. Well, technically, it is, but it doesn't have the proper geometry... I'm not sure how to explain it, but Musashi basically just uses wire-brushing on most of their kats to make the 'yokote'-- brushing in a different direction than the 'hamon'. It's honestly really hard to find a proper picture, but here... I really hope that worked... Anyhow, basically you are treating the tip as a separate 'edge' from the ha, shaping it in a different direction from the ha and this change in geometry creates the yokote.
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Post by Bryn on Aug 21, 2011 21:11:49 GMT
I mean, if you didn't mind turning it into a shobu geometry you could just blend it all in, shorten the whole thing by about an eighth of an inch or so.
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Post by zentesukenVII on Aug 21, 2011 22:03:27 GMT
I know its not geometric, but it is aesthetically pleasing to me, if my DH bamboo had the same thing itd look better imo.
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Post by Lobster Hunter on Aug 30, 2011 7:37:32 GMT
To fix my chipped tip, I filed toward the point, toward the edge. After rough shaping, I smoothed it with one of these Lansky sharpeners. www.google.com/products/catalog?q=lansky+sharpener&hl=en&prmd=ivns&bav=on.2,or.r_gc.r_pw.&biw=1563&bih=875&um=1&ie=UTF-8&tbm=shop&cid=12562222191817902019&sa=X&ei=s5FcTrqALbDRiAL959izBQ&ved=0CHoQ8wIwBg 1000 grit sandpaper will blend the scratches nicely. 2000 grit will make it even smoother.
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Post by zentesukenVII on Aug 30, 2011 8:10:12 GMT
thanks man, i will probably get one. I dont quite understand how it works, is the right side just a wetstone kind of concept?
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Post by William Swiger on Aug 30, 2011 11:05:19 GMT
I fixed a couple of bigger tip breaks using just a fine whetstone. Have to go slow as not to mark the blade.
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Post by Lobster Hunter on Aug 30, 2011 16:30:38 GMT
Yup, it's just a stone attached to a handle. It's part of a knife sharpening contraption (Lansky sharpening system) but I just like using it freehand because it's small and easy to control, ideal for touching up pointy tips. Have some honing oil handy for removing steel residue from the stone. 3in1 or fine mineral oil should work too.
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