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Post by Thump on Aug 10, 2011 15:33:18 GMT
I have a wood scabard for my Jian that is falling apart. The parts are good but the glue used to bind the 2 wood half and the metal hardware is failing.
Looking for Tips, tricks and ideas on good glue to use.
Willing to take it completly apart to do a good job.
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Greg
Senior Forumite
Posts: 1,800
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Post by Greg on Aug 10, 2011 16:47:26 GMT
First and foremost DO NOT use any sort of wood glue. The reason for this is that a lot of the wood glue out there is water based, this will eventually cause discoloration on your blade. Fellow forum member Saito found this out the hard way recently. You'll want to use some sort of 2 part epoxy. I use the Locktite 5 minute stuff, but you have to work fast. If you are unsure, see about getting a longer time window. I'm not sure if they make a 20 minute epoxy, but I think they do. Without any picture on how your scabbard is coming apart, I can't really offer you any further information. But generally speaking, you'll want to just apply a small amount of epoxy along the seam and press together while cleaning off any excess leakage.
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Post by Brian Kunz on Aug 10, 2011 16:54:54 GMT
Not true. What you want is 'non-toxic' wood glue. I've used it for years without one problem, and my own personal scabbards store my swords for months at a time without discoloration.
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Post by Thump on Aug 11, 2011 15:55:48 GMT
How about the Metal furnature that has and well be glued. They slide over the scabard and must be glued in place. I'm worried about spreading epoxy all over the wood scabard as the go into place.
I will try and take a few pics
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Post by Elheru Aran on Aug 11, 2011 16:05:42 GMT
Are you planning to cover the scabbard with leather? Should make for a tighter fit, less glue necessary.
What you do is you put the glue on the scabbard itself, not on the furniture, and that way as you slide the metal up on the scabbard it won't spread glue up and down the scabbard.
Brian, if I may ask, do you use any particular brand, ie Tite-bond?
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Post by Brian Kunz on Aug 11, 2011 16:40:59 GMT
Yes, I use Tite-Bond NON-TOXIC, which is the red bottle. I grew up around carpentry, so wood glue is my friend
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Post by dfmarino on Aug 11, 2011 23:27:11 GMT
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Post by Brendan Olszowy on Aug 12, 2011 15:45:50 GMT
The problems with wood glue are not their water besedity - water dries - it's the pH! Titebond glues are the strongest woodglue available (claimed). It's great stuff. But where Saito, and myself at first, came into trouble was their acidity.
A quick scan on the titebond.com website wil show that Titebond III - the green bottle, the strongest product, which is still suitable for food grade applications, non-toxic, solvent free, etc. - You'll see it has a pH of 2.5! Thats mega acidic and it will discolour your blades quick smart. Titebond II is slightly less strong - gets you 3.0pH Titebond Original - which is the red bottle - which is what Brian is using. Is about 10% less strong than titebond 3 but it gets your pH back up to 4.6 - which is far less caustic to your blades. So if you are to use a Titebond product do pick the red. And make sure you don't overdo the glue to such an extend it'll spew out all over the inside of your scabbard where it is likely to come into contact with your blade.
Myself I have taken to using superstrength epoxy - the slow setting stuff.
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Post by chrisperoni on Aug 12, 2011 17:15:39 GMT
I tend to use epoxy on any part that may touch metal- plus it smells brain-damagingly-good :twisted:
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Greg
Senior Forumite
Posts: 1,800
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Post by Greg on Aug 12, 2011 21:29:24 GMT
Ah, thanks Brian for clearing me up on that.
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Post by Brian Kunz on Aug 12, 2011 21:50:53 GMT
No problem. I didn't want any misinformation getting spread about.
As per Brendan's input; I've had direct contact to the blade in experimentation in my early days with the red bottle tite-bond glue with no effects. For anyone in doubt, fear not. It works great, and I've not had any complaints, either.
Thanks Brendan.
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Post by Brendan Olszowy on Aug 13, 2011 1:03:54 GMT
Good to hear that Brian. I have a bottle of red I use for my leather work and lighter wood grips like holly.
Just don't take the green pill... :-) :lol:
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Post by Lonely Wolf Forge on Aug 13, 2011 13:26:37 GMT
i also noticed that afer about 2 weeks i was able to put the sword in the scabbard with no discoloration or damage and since then its never bothered it.
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Post by Thump on Aug 15, 2011 22:23:03 GMT
Sorry been real busy
But no I will not be putting leather on the scabbard. First is its a Chinese blase and would not suit the style, and second is since I have never done anything like this before it would add a level of complexity I could not at this time handle.
And Thanks for all the great input.
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