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Post by Vincent Dolan on Jul 16, 2011 8:50:56 GMT
Those of you who've bought this piece, I have a question for you, though it's not really related to the sword itself. How much do the guard and pommel weigh? I'm curious because the listed POB on Kult of Athena is 3.5"; they must be rather heavy to balance out such a long blade that features relatively little distal taper (though I know the extra long handle is a bit of a factor).
I must confess I'm interested since my fantasy design, Ithin, uses a katana blade (which also has relatively little distal taper) mounted on a Ming jian styled hilt and, though the blade is, as of its most current incarnation, 2" shorter than the Rodell, the hilt is, too, making for a sword 35" total with an 8" hilt (5" grip design wise). I'm rather worried that the furniture in the finished product (which will be cast bronze (and hopefully silver plated) may not be heavy enough to balance out the blade in the way I'd like, so I'm hoping the weight of the Rodell furniture will give me a number to shoot for in the hopes of getting an agile sword.
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Post by Sir Tre on Jul 16, 2011 11:13:43 GMT
mine has a pob of around 4.5... the fittings are hollow as traditional. which means the weight per fitting will be less than appears by size. i actually want to get a new one and design brass (solid) fittings that are custom, and hopefully get john to make them for a fair price. he does outstanding casting work. that will also pull the pob back some, but it will also change the nodes. and to point of percussion will change.
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Post by Vincent Dolan on Jul 16, 2011 11:34:29 GMT
Hm. I did not know that the fittings were hollow or that it was traditional. So perhaps if it can have such a close POB with hollow mild steel, perhaps perhaps solid bronze will balance out the heavy blade despite having a hilt two inches shorter. Thanks, Tre.
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Post by Sir Tre on Jul 16, 2011 14:03:55 GMT
might wanna check with brenno, tinker, or sam, about getting the balance, and vibration nodes right tho.
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Post by Vincent Dolan on Jul 16, 2011 14:12:06 GMT
Well, I've got it planned to use one of the Kris Cutlery bare blades for it (it'll keep costs down that way, though probably not by much since it still requires sheath and grip to be carved, plus all the furniture casting), so I'm not sure how much help I could get, particularly since about 1.5-2" will need to be cut from the tang to shorten it to the proper length.
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Post by nihontoman on Sept 25, 2011 18:54:54 GMT
hi guys, didn't want to open up a new thread and my question might be better suited to the topic headline than the actual topic is :mrgreen:
Anyways, I want to know some info about hanwei cutting jian. I've got some interest in chinese jian and would like to eventually buy one. my requirements are:
close to historical design
not fancy
functional
and the most important: good, symetrical blade, with even meat throughout the length.
they say that it is based on historical swords. it's also quite plain to my liking and is also functional, but I'm not sure about the blade - does irt meet my requirements? I'm pretty anal with stuff like that and if the blade is wavy and asymmetrical, it will turn me off right away. so guys, what are your thoughts? is it good enough for me??? :roll:
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Post by Anders on Sept 25, 2011 20:21:16 GMT
You know, I could swear we had a review of the Rodell Jian somewhere but now I can't find it. Anyone know where it is?
I knew the guard is hollow, but is the pommel hollow too?
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Post by Sir Tre on Oct 2, 2011 19:59:25 GMT
yes it is.... what i mostly dont like is the pommel nut is a hex key thing that is inset. what i did to alleviate my concern is to pin the pommel like a han jian, and place a mekugi in the handle like a katana. what i want to do at a later time is to have custom fittings made from white brass that resemble a lion, and (being heavier) will be able to shorten the handle enough to peen the assembly with out changing the vibration nodes or cutting node.
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Deleted
Deleted Member
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Post by Deleted on Oct 4, 2011 18:52:39 GMT
Can you post a picture of the pin you put in?
Where and how did you pin it, did you drill though a space in the leather wrap? Copper or wood pin? Thanks.
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Post by Sir Tre on Oct 8, 2011 1:03:42 GMT
viewtopic.php?f=19&t=238
here is repair trhead.... also you want to get perfect match for drill bit to hole for mekugi pin (bamboo available on SOM). as you can see in thread i used brass pin on pommel. a brass rod is available at hardware store. i would not use anything but bamboo or hardwood dowel on handle itself as it will warp the hole in wood handle after use of sword since it is harder than the wood handle. make sure the retention nut is tight b4 starting so you assemble is not loose when thru. i really want solid parts for this sword like my jin-shi has.
when i drilled for the mekugi i simply parted the black leather cording enough where the bit would not damage it then pressed leather back over the dowel.
hope this helps.
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