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Post by Lonely Wolf Forge on Jul 2, 2011 15:23:33 GMT
Ok guys i was wondering about a blade geometry and im not sure ive seen it anywhere, the best example i can find is this pic here, no the greatest i know but notice how the blade doesnt have a "Diamond" geometry, its basically a flat bar with very long steep bevels, like if you took 2 japanese blades (strait blade) and laid them side by side to create a double edged sword. hard to explain i know...but it would basically be like a Euro shaped double edged japanese style geometry where you have the Ha, the mune, and then another Ha to make ir double edged. i thought about this geometry as a kind of east meets west style sword and i envisioned it as having dfferentially hardened edges. and damascus type steel. does anyone have any ideas/reasons why a sword in this type of geometry wouldnt cut as long as it was properly made/heat treated
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Post by SlayerofDarkness on Jul 2, 2011 15:35:52 GMT
Hexagonal cross-section. I've not seen it very commonly on functional swords, but it certainly exists (some of the old Hanwei Iberia line have this geometry, IIRC...?). Sure, this sword could cut! Not quite as well as if you rounded off the 'corners' and made it fully lenticular, but it would work. As to the specifics, details, and all that brainy know-how, I'll leave that to our more experienced members to answer... this is surely a viable design, at the very least. -Slayer
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Post by Lonely Wolf Forge on Jul 2, 2011 15:49:18 GMT
thats pretty much what i thought, i mean a katana has no trouble cutting through its target with its wedge geometry, so this shouldnt either. or so i think
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Post by Vincent Dolan on Jul 2, 2011 16:11:32 GMT
This is, to me, the defining characteristic of the Type XIX. Albion makes 5 (Condottiere, Kern, Doge, Machiavelli, and Glassgow); Tried & True also has a single model, available in either Mercenary or Tried & True grades. As to the blade shape itself, it's a dedicated cut-n-thruster that enjoyed usage from the mid-14th century to the start of the 17th and thereabouts.
@slayer: Most of their Iberia line has a diamond or pseudo lenticular cross-section with a thick ricasso, but the hand-and-a-half and Lionheart are sort of hexagonal. You're right, though; it's not used enough.
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Post by Lonely Wolf Forge on Jul 2, 2011 16:17:02 GMT
Thanks Vincent. Seems like its a perfectly acceptable geometry form then
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Post by SlayerofDarkness on Jul 2, 2011 16:21:12 GMT
Thanks for all the info, Vince! You're becoming a real base of knowledge around these parts. 'Virtual' +1 to you. Yeah, I love the aesthetics of a good hex cross-section. I've never handled one in person, though, except for el cheapo wallhangers, so I'm not sure how I'd feel then. I was thinking of the Hand and a Half model, now that you mention it (had the picture in my head, but not the name), so that makes sense. -Slayer
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Post by Vincent Dolan on Jul 2, 2011 16:45:19 GMT
It comes from having little to fill my day with, so I spend brushing up on various things. Since I can't expand my experience with swords, best to expand my book knowledge of them. Plus, one of my sword designs uses the XIX (Ælfwing) because I loved how the Albion Gallowglass looked; the perfectly parallel edges tapering to a point that's not too acute and not too rounded, as well as the hand-and-a-half length reminded me of a lightsaber. The ATrim Merc XIX.1 is on my wishlist and I'm not sure if I want to get it or the Merc XVIa.3 (the basis for my most popular design, Mé'aré).
Anyways! I had to go and look over at KoA to check since I thought more than those two had their weird X/XIX cross section (that's the only think I can call them with those full length fullers), but apparently not.
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Luka
Senior Forumite
Posts: 2,848
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Post by Luka on Jul 2, 2011 18:38:04 GMT
Type XVII swords are also all of hexagonal cross section... Like Albion's Landgraf and Sempach...
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Post by BasketKase on Jul 5, 2011 18:37:45 GMT
you'd need a fairly weighty pommel to counter balance the fact that the blade has as much steel in it as it would. But that would depend on blade length, POB, and the thickness you made the steel in the center. I would think it would work better if you had one large or even two small fullers going up about 3/4 the length of the blade and taper the remaining metal above the fuller(s) to a keen thrusting tip.
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Post by Lonely Wolf Forge on Jul 5, 2011 22:06:59 GMT
id keep it fairly thin and give it a shorter blade, with a hand and a half length grip to help counterbalance
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Aaron
Member
Senior Forumite
Posts: 2,369
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Post by Aaron on Jul 8, 2011 3:15:52 GMT
XVIa's also utilize the hexagonal cross-section.
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