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Post by Deleted on May 29, 2007 19:38:37 GMT
Chop's thread about the possibility of a Cheness 9260 naginata got me to thinking about the Kris bare blade naginata. I've looked at it before, though as the basis for a funky short-bladed, long-handled sword, rather than as a polearm. Anyone have one? Anyone know anyone who has one? Etc? KC's blades are generally well respected, but the $95 price tag has me wondering (seems a bit low). kriscutlery.com/japanese/naginata2.htm
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Post by Deleted on Jun 1, 2007 0:26:24 GMT
Is that so? You don't say? Nobody? You guys suck! I'm outta here! ;D I think this thing would be great with a tsuba added, the nakago chopped down a few inches, and a 12" tsuka mounted on it.
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Post by Deleted on Jun 12, 2007 17:50:48 GMT
It looks like it is the blade only? I assume you would have to haft it yourself? I want to a one to add to my pole arm collection. I have always wanted a Naginata but the prices I have seen were in the $400 - $600 range. Let me know if you get one and what you think about it. Thanks.
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Post by Deleted on Jun 13, 2007 17:02:12 GMT
Yes, it's just the blade itself. It's still on my possibles list, though, as above, I'm not sure if I want to use it in its intended role or as the basis for some other kind of made up weapon. No worries, I will definitely post some comments if I end up getting one.
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Post by jpfranco on Jun 13, 2007 20:46:35 GMT
This is one neet looking blade
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Post by Deleted on Jun 14, 2007 1:50:06 GMT
I would really like to get one of these! I am craftly impaired thought. If I could find someone who mounted them or an easy way to do it I would order one tomorrow though.
Dan
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Post by Deleted on Jun 14, 2007 2:44:47 GMT
Yes men, I am seriously thinking of one myself as I have a friend who is a chippie and said he can get me a pole in any available wood, and then just add the cost onto one of his jobs !
Does anyone know what type of steel the nag. blade is made from ?
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Post by Deleted on Jun 14, 2007 3:06:51 GMT
Cecil at KC will answer your questions, very good guy to deal with...
Chop, would your mate sell some? and can he get Oval poles done? Ive got a Nag blade to mount up but cant get a oval pole anywhere...
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Post by Deleted on Jun 14, 2007 4:06:32 GMT
He gets it from a trade supplier. He can't get spotted gum more than 200mm, which is a bummer. I am thinking of ironbark, or maybe Tassie oak( which I know isn't really oak, but very strong none the less). I have an old Oak curtain pole that smells really old, that I found in the council clean-ups but I may keep that for a Bo.
You can probably get an oval shape but unless you know someone with the tools could be a bit difficult. Just look for some strong doweling, put it in a vice and plain it like there is no tommorrow ! I plain most of my bokken at sometime to remove bumps and dents and you could not tell the difference.
There are timber suppliers everywhere mate, log onto Yellow pages and type in TIMBER SUPPLIERS and see what it brings up.
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Post by tajima on Jun 14, 2007 6:14:13 GMT
I use a 25mm Tassie Oak for my homemade Rokushakubo, very sturdy.
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Post by Deleted on Jun 14, 2007 7:23:15 GMT
Yeah Tajima apparently I also have a bookcase made of the stuff my wife informs me I still have, but am getting a 240cm length of Tas.oak dowling when I see my mate next. Think its a 27 or 30 cm thickness so maybe good for mounting nag. blade in. Will keep you informed.
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Post by Deleted on Jun 16, 2007 12:09:31 GMT
Ok seen my mate here is the piece of dowel I mentioned. It is 242cm long, and 3.5cm thick in Tasmanian oak. The wood itself is quite dense but not as heavy. I mean not heavy like English oak, this feels a little like white oak but a bit more dense in fibre. If you were to clamp it in a few vices I am sure you could belt sand or plain opposing sides back (if your arms can take it) back to an ovular shape. My mate and I had a few bourbons last night and I picked his carpenter's brain. He suggested drilling a small hole down the centre of the dowel with a laye, using a gun-barrel bit (long drill bit used for drilling gun barrels). Then using something like a saya file which is a file about 96cm long, slowly bore out the hole to fit the 14 3/4" nakago using the drilled hole as a guide. Well here is the next hurdle, found this one at shadow but look at the price www.shadowofleaves.com/saya_components.htmAt double the cost of the blade itself I am afraid this is out of the question. Then my mate came up with what could easily be described as 'bourbon-fuelled inspiration' and said "why don't you just spot-weld a curved file to a 40cm steel rod , she'll be right mate ". Let's face it, it is worth a shot unless anybody else out there has any other ideas where I can get a cheap, long, thin file from I have e-mailed Kris cutlery about the dimensions of the nakago and the possibility of maybe e-mailing me a picture of the blade and tang, but was informed there is no staff in due to weekend so will have to wait for that one. I really need the width of the nak. just after the habaki (at its widest) to see if my pole is thick enough. It looks a bit thicker than the average katanas nak. from their picture on website but will wait for them to e-mail me with the specs. One last idea I promise, If the neck of the Naginatas nakago is to thick for the average tsuba to fit on, I wonder if the tsubas for the Cheness SGC series would fit on it.They are wide enough, the yamakami one would look a bit shite but the Tsukkikage tsuba might look OK ? Baby steps people.
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Post by Deleted on Jun 16, 2007 14:23:56 GMT
Hey Chop, try splitting the pole,wedging it open enuff to get a chisel or even a dremel in there to cut out the recess then bind it up with rattan and drill for a mekugi or 2. As for a tsuba just draw one up on some plate steel and cut it out yourself, you can go nuts or just do a simple disc. Lazer cutting isnt that dear either, I had a rather fancy one done cost me $50 as I supplied the artwork, I think its about 75 if they have to do it.
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Post by Deleted on Jun 18, 2007 19:37:45 GMT
I would think you could find those files at Lowes. I have files like that in my woodworking cabinet and I didn't get them from Japan nor did I pay anything NEAR that price. I've had em so long I cannot remember where I got um but I AM POSITIVE I didn't pay those prices. I'll look around. Keep me posted on your project. I want to add one to my collection. Also a mortising bit would be perfect if you could find one long enough. Last time I was at Harbor freight they had a set of 3 or 4 mortising bits only, not the machine for around $29 if I am not mistaken. You could use them in a drill press or a hand drill for that matter. www.americanwoodworker.com/userdocs/articles/200008/tooltest/page2.htmlThis bit is a little higher than harbor freight but it gives you an idea. www.bizrate.com/powertools/oid559090047.html
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Post by Deleted on Jun 19, 2007 13:43:08 GMT
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Post by Deleted on Jun 25, 2007 12:45:14 GMT
OK people, I've received a reply from Cecil at Kris Cut. and he has been kind enough to take a photo of the nakago of the NaginataII blade for me. Oh yeah, its 5160 steel if anyone interested. Any ideas on mounting it . Maybe heating up the end of the nakago before inserting in the wood or maybe drilling a mekugi ana
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Post by Deleted on Jul 5, 2007 16:32:19 GMT
Mounting a naginata blade is a bit of a challenge for anyone who hasn't already done a Japanese-style sword, but not an insurmountable one! Here's how I did it... My KC Nag blade is mounted in a 6' ash shaft. What I did was cut away about a third of the shaft thickness, about an inch longer than the nakago. Save the piece, then carve out the channel for the nakago in the shaft. The KC Naginata is easy to do this with because it's wedge shaped with only three sides. Mark where you want the mekugiana (I recommend 2 on the LOOONG nakago) and drill two tiny pilot holes in the shaft. Glue on the cut away piece of the shaft. You should now have a complete shaft again. Now, using a tungsten carbide drill bit and the pilot holes as a guide, drill your mekugiana. The next step I added in as a bit of insurance, since it is a cutting weapon and would be used as such. I very tightly wrapped some copper wire around the shaft the entire length of where the nakago resided in the shaft and then some (avoiding the mekugiana, of course). After, I locked it in place with solder for extra strength. I've seen rattan, rawhide and even samé used to the same effect. I then lacquered the shaft, let it dry for a few weeks, then affixed the set of hardware I made for it. The shafts for naginata traditionally have an oval profile rather than the circular profile of a dowel. The reason for this is that it allows the user to control the direction of the blade. Even with modern test cutting, it's still advisable to retain an oval shaft profile, making control of the blade easier, tenouchi easier. There are instances from the Edo period of shorter naginata shafts with a round profile, but these were used as symbols of office and personal defence weapons for officials. Hope this helps!
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Post by Deleted on Jul 5, 2007 20:05:37 GMT
Would love to see pics of your project Kevin!
Dan
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Post by Deleted on Jul 6, 2007 3:23:45 GMT
Mounting a naginata blade is a bit of a challenge for anyone who hasn't already done a Japanese-style sword, but not an insurmountable one! Here's how I did it... My KC Nag blade is mounted in a 6' ash shaft. What I did was cut away about a third of the shaft thickness, about an inch longer than the nakago. Save the piece, then carve out the channel for the nakago in the shaft. The KC Naginata is easy to do this with because it's wedge shaped with only three sides. Mark where you want the mekugiana (I recommend 2 on the LOOONG nakago) and drill two tiny pilot holes in the shaft. Glue on the cut away piece of the shaft. You should now have a complete shaft again. Now, using a tungsten carbide drill bit and the pilot holes as a guide, drill your mekugiana. The next step I added in as a bit of insurance, since it is a cutting weapon and would be used as such. I very tightly wrapped some copper wire around the shaft the entire length of where the nakago resided in the shaft and then some (avoiding the mekugiana, of course). After, I locked it in place with solder for extra strength. I've seen rattan, rawhide and even samé used to the same effect. I then lacquered the shaft, let it dry for a few weeks, then affixed the set of hardware I made for it. The shafts for naginata traditionally have an oval profile rather than the circular profile of a dowel. The reason for this is that it allows the user to control the direction of the blade. Even with modern test cutting, it's still advisable to retain an oval shaft profile, making control of the blade easier, tenouchi easier. There are instances from the Edo period of shorter naginata shafts with a round profile, but these were used as symbols of office and personal defence weapons for officials. Hope this helps! Cheers mate, karma for you. Pictures would be great if you have a digital camera I need a challenge so I think I am going to get one.
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Post by Deleted on Jul 6, 2007 12:12:42 GMT
Will do...
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