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Post by Jayhawk on Jun 14, 2011 2:56:20 GMT
Well, after deciding I was not having fun hand sharpening my swords, I took the huge plunge of spending $9 for an accusharp knife sharpener. After about a week being shipped slowly by Amazon (free shipping has it's own price), my sharpener arrived today. 10 minutes later, and I have a nicely sharpened sword. Sure my wife was highly annoyed that I didn't hide in the basement like I had when hand sharpening and she had to listen to the sharpening sound ("you sound like a psycho getting ready for an evening's work" she said), but that little sucker works incredibly well.
Because I'm cheap and aim for free Amazon shipping whenever possible, I also ran out to the garage and sharpened all the tools out there with my new Garden sharpener also made by the accusharp folks. Again, wow...less than 5 minutes for a lopper and a pair of shears.
I'm seriously impressed by these little sharpeners - much, much, much better than the cheaper knife sharpener I had before (that looked very similar to the accusharp). I'm not sure what makes the accusharp stuff better, but it's great.
Now, I'm just waiting for the old DS to charge up, and I'm off to play Aragorn's Quest (I wonder if it has a sword sharpening mini-quest :roll: ). So, the reviews aren't great, but I needed just a bit more to qualify for free shipping and I enjoy a hack and slash game now and then.
Anyone else really like the accusharp knife sharpener?
Eric
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Post by Lonely Wolf Forge on Jun 14, 2011 3:39:06 GMT
NOOOOOOOOOOOOOO! the AccuSharp is the Bane of any well made sword...it destroys the blades geometry ,removes way too much steel, and gives it a nasty extreme secondary bevel edge. AccuSharp is a huge NoNo for swords :/ ruined onea my fav blades with one. poor poor sword.... I hope i wasnt an expensive one, and hopefully wasnt a katana,...
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Post by Jayhawk on Jun 14, 2011 11:35:00 GMT
But there is an article on this site recommending it! Why would they put that up if it ruins a blade?
My blade now has a nice 30 degree angle which is exactly what the recommended angle is for hand sharpening. I'm not really clear on this whole secondary bevel issue...the article mentioned it, but I'm not seeing it. Then again, I polished it with a wetstone afterwards, so maybe that took care of it?
The blade is a dao...not expensive, but also not ruined. It also sharpened a khukri nicely, too. And, my garden tools sharpened with the garden sharpener look like they did when new.
Color me now officially confused!
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Post by Lonely Wolf Forge on Jun 14, 2011 11:54:01 GMT
heres 2 diff threads on the subject, this should clear up any confuson...accu sharp s good for garden tools...Some knives, and anything thats junk and wont be further worsened anyway. The edge accusharp leaves is way too steep, and ts a weak edge that wont stay sharp as well. for sharpening needs, check out the videos by "Tom K" they are a treasure trove of sharpening info, and since i started following them ive never had an issue with blade sharpness viewtopic.php?f=22&t=4958&p=59898&hilit=accusharp#p59898viewtopic.php?f=10&t=3108&hilit=accusharpHeres a really crude explanation i did up in MS paint, its not to scale or anything...so take it with a grain of salt, but maybe it will help you understand. Anyone else feel free to chime in as well oh and did i forget to mention...SECONDARY BEVELS ARE JUST PLAIN UGLY LOOKING!!! :lol: :evil:
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Post by iealchemist on Jun 14, 2011 12:49:08 GMT
I agree that the accusharp is not a good method of sharpening, by cutting away the steel on the blade it leaves a pretty shoddy edge. If you have a really blunt euro, i could imagine using it just to get started, and then grind out the secondary bevel with sandpaper or stone and keen the edge. I would not even go near my katana with an accusharp, since geometry is so much more important on a katana due to the larger thickness IMO. If your looking for a faster way to sharpen without ruining geometry, I recommend the belt sander from TomK's sharpening guide. Puts a shaving sharp edge on swords and knives alike (although you still need to be careful)
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Post by chrisperoni on Jun 14, 2011 13:29:38 GMT
Read this: viewtopic.php?f=3&t=3412&hilit=tinkerBasically, an edge needs to be done well, whatever the angle. If you get an edge you like, then your fine. If it looks good to you, it's fine. If it cuts well for you, it's fine. The tutorial where Paul Southern shows you how to use an accusharp to sharpen a sword is fine, if it works for you. TomK's sharpening tutorials show you another way to sharpen a sword, if it works for you then guess what?- it's fine too. Some people lke the lok of a secondary bevel as it really sets off the edge. Others like a smooth rolled edge- whatevs. The most important thing with sharpening is to take your time and do a careful job.
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Post by Jayhawk on Jun 14, 2011 13:39:48 GMT
Maybe I got lucky...the blade was allegedly sharpened, but not really sharpened - just close ya know. I didn't put much presure on it and only did it for a few minutes, and it has a nice edge now. The accusharp did take off some metal, but no more than when I've used files and sandpaper. I wiped the blade after every swipe - it felt rough after the first pass...and the wiping really helped. It was also a brand new accusharp. I did use the wetstone on it afterwards, so I'm not seeing the secondary bevel your image depicts.
I read the articles, and I'll use the accusharp with more caution. But I don't see the thing being a total failure - more as a starting point. I can see how if you use too much pressure, or run it over the blade for 40 minutes, it could remove too much metal...but so can a file.
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Post by Elheru Aran on Jun 14, 2011 13:58:40 GMT
Honestly I think you're fine given that you used a stone on it after.
I don't think there's necessarily anything wrong with using an Accusharp, as long as you clean it up after with a stone or whatever other tools you have to work down the bevel a little bit.
The main issue people have with it is that it removes a lot of material very quickly, and as such it's easy to screw up your blade. Sounds like you did a decent job, however, so you should be OK.
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Post by Anders on Jun 14, 2011 14:35:10 GMT
I own an accusharp-type device. My impression is that it's great for rough sharpening, like if you have a blunt that you want to turn into a sharp, it's a decent way to get the innitial work done. Like Elheru said, though, you'll want to finish it up with something more refined afterwards.
If you just want to keep a sharp blade in good cutting form, a regular sharpening steel works fine.
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Post by Enkidu on Jun 14, 2011 19:10:06 GMT
I think we are a bit over reacting concerning the use of the accusharp. Just be aware of the dangers related to it, dont use on katanas and on expensive swords, dont over use it and keep the carbide files clean. Thats all.
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Post by chuckinohio on Jun 14, 2011 22:41:01 GMT
Jayhawk My esteemed colleague above is right on the mark with his asessment. You HAVE NOT ruined your blade. There are several articles, posts, and how to guides around here about sharpening, commence to reading them and you will understand the exclamations that your post drew forth at first. Here is one of the industry giants, and his thoughts on edges- forum.sword-buyers-guide.com/viewtopic.php?f=3&t=3412
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Post by Jayhawk on Jun 14, 2011 23:08:14 GMT
Thanks everyone for the comments - on both sides of the issue. I appreciate the concern, and passion, of my fellow sword collectors. :-)
BTW - That's a good article by Tinker Pearce.
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Post by chrisperoni on Jun 15, 2011 0:29:54 GMT
yep, sure is. In fact it wsa a good article when I posted it Chuck. So there. I win. 2 points. Game, set, match, championship, excelsior.
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Post by Enkidu on Jun 15, 2011 2:23:45 GMT
One of my best cutting sword is a Tinker sword ( grand espee de guerre, type XIII ), the one that is pictured on the cover of his book ( Medieval sword in modern times , a recommended reading for all of us, really ) and you know what ? It has a beveled edge... Weird enough isnt it ?
Thanks Chuck.. lol. esteemed colleague ;p yeah right ! Chuck, my dear paragon of the most revered reference !
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Post by Lonely Wolf Forge on Jun 15, 2011 12:03:49 GMT
if anyone can make a secondary bevel sword kick ass its Tinker....his swords are awesome
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Post by chuckinohio on Jun 15, 2011 12:50:54 GMT
I completely missed it in your first post or I wouldn't have thrown it out there again.
I need to quit reading threads when I am half asleep.
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Post by Jayhawk on Jun 15, 2011 13:01:50 GMT
I saw both postings, Chris' first, but Chuck posted it better. :twisted: :lol:
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Post by StevenJ on Aug 4, 2011 8:37:01 GMT
I've destroyed too many swords using Accusharps. I'll never use one ever again.
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Deleted Member
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Post by Deleted on Sept 23, 2011 12:55:13 GMT
Sharpeners largely depend on the blade shape and edge type. This is field work sharpening. For "easy " shapes like a standard clip point, drop point, spear point or pukko, without serrations I tend to use the DMT DIAFOLD (2 sided diamond stone linked to by others), a Spyderco Double stuff pocket stone (the 2 grades of ceramic used in their Triangle sharpener, but flat simmilar to a 3/4"x4" stone). ------------------------------- www.vassaknivar.se
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Post by William Swiger on Sept 23, 2011 13:35:26 GMT
I use an accusharp on some swords such as DSAs in conjuction with a smooth file and sometimes a whet stone and sandpaper. That said - would never use one on a good sword.
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