Deleted
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Post by Deleted on Jun 4, 2011 10:14:04 GMT
I got this kuramono in the first batch of kuramono's that was sold awhile back. In between taking care of my mother when she was sick and moving out of state and buying a house for the first time I never got around to even unwrapping this katana let alone using it. I finally un-packed it the other day and noticed some warping in the saya finish, then I touched it and a chip fell off.. then I un-wrapped the sageo and all kinds of chips just fell off.... So, this happen to anyone elses Kuramono?? If so, what'd ya do? Mine seems to just be falling off like the paint never stuck to the primer. Here are some pics: I wanted to send it to Fred Lohman to get refinished but he won't refinish it, he only said he'll make another saya which will cost more than I paid for the aword. I tried re-finishing a saya before but when I applied the final coat of paint the entire paintjob crinkled on me and I just bought another saya since it was a Cheness blade and cost only $30. Any tips/guide on how to re-finish this thing? I'd like to do a simple easy job, I'd like to get a flat finish kind of like this: But glossy would be fine. Anythings better than what I have now. If you know of someone/place that can refinish this saya I'd like to check 'em out as well. Thanks for any help!
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Marc Kaden Ridgeway
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Retired Global Moderator
Awful lot of leaving and joining going on here for me .... And gosh I can't recall doing a bit of i
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Post by Marc Kaden Ridgeway on Jun 4, 2011 13:05:17 GMT
Contact Paul... see what your options are
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Post by Lonely Wolf Forge on Jun 4, 2011 16:14:04 GMT
strip the entire thing down to bare wood with low grit sandpaper, takes about 15 mins, then spray thin coats of spray on lacquer, give it ample time to not just dry to the toutch but to cure, keep adding thin light coats until its all evenly covered, then do the same thing with clear coat, more coats for a glassy finish, less coats for a smooth satin finish. If it ends up too glassy just hit it with ultra fine steel wool. The entire refinish can be done in about a week. ive even rushed it and been done in 2 days before, but its best to really give it time to cure. ive never had one chip or peel after refinish.
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Post by Bradleee42 on Jun 4, 2011 16:18:18 GMT
I would definately talk to Paul first, but if it were me, I'd sand it and stain it. But be sure and test your stain on different types of wood before you apply it to you saya, Just because two different companys have stain with the same name doesnt mean theyre the same color. So test,test,test...it'll save you some heartache in the end. And usually if you can get enough stain on it, you wont need to poly it...which will almost by 100% cut down on the chance of it crinkling.
:ugeek:
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Post by Lonely Wolf Forge on Jun 4, 2011 16:26:58 GMT
i dont like the look of unglossed stain. looks pretty dull IMO, i like lacquer way better, although i did do my O katana saya in "russian red" with clear coat to match the finish i gave my AK-47 and it looked awesome. clear coat makes a world of difference.
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kaiyo
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Post by kaiyo on Jun 4, 2011 16:42:40 GMT
it happend to me with a other sword with the same saya, its just a poor paintjob finish
im sure Paul will help...
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Deleted
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Post by Deleted on Jun 4, 2011 17:13:36 GMT
Thanks everyone for the advice, I did as everyone suggested and contacted Paul first so I'll see what he says!
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Post by Lobster Hunter on Jun 5, 2011 9:32:20 GMT
The paint on my Kuramono was starting to peel too. I replaced it with a Cheness 30" nagasa saya. I recently spray-painted a saya for an old Masahiro and then sealed it with shellac. It was a quick fix and it turned out pretty good. If you go this route, be sure to give the paint at least a full day to dry before spraying shellac or lacquer on it. Then let that dry for at least 5 days or so before any serious handling or tying on the sageo. I tied on the sageo about a day after applying the shellac and it marred the finish a bit. Damn my impatience!
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Deleted
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Post by Deleted on Jun 16, 2011 0:52:01 GMT
Thanks again everyone for the advice to contact Paul and a big THANK YOU to Paul and Pam at www.proswords.com !! Even though I had this sword un-opened for over a year they still took care of me and stood behind their product. Pam sent me a brand new replacement saya that looks great! Thank god I don't have to try and paint another saya, like I said before last time I tried it ended in disaster. Maybe one of these days I'll try again on this extra saya I have now but at least I won't be so worried about screwing up my one and only saya. With service like that I can't wait to order my next katana from ProSwords, just wish their website was working right now though that might be a good thing for me since I need to save my $$ :mrgreen:
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Post by johnwalter on Jun 18, 2011 22:31:20 GMT
Finish coat was likely applied in very humid conditions over a poor prime job or the wood for the saya wasnt properly cured.Your finish is only as good as your prime job. First sand it back down to absolute bare wood,then wipe it with a barely damp cloth,let it dry thoroughly several days. Resand with very fine paper and wipe with barely damp cloth and allow to dry for a day or so.Spray with believe it or not,Rustoleum primer.Several thin coats coats,4-5, allowing to completely dry between coats. Final coat with Rustoleum textured paint.Simple and really tough.You can spray that with Rustoleum cear coat laqcuer to give it a shine and make it even more durable. I have used on a few sayas and many paintball markers.Great stuff.
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